Bathtub repair, what all do I need?

In reply to lnlogauge :

While I do not disagree, I just can't get the 3/4Fnpt to 1/2sharkbite fitting from the PO off. I am curious to see what having a direct line to the shower will do versus the maze of piping that existed before though. Soon.

In other news...

 this window looks like E36 M3 now.

It had been recessed in the plaster before, but now, well, it's not.

Anything I can do to make it look a bit better? I was originally just going to put some trim around it, but not sure if there's anything that could cover the drywall edges without making it look even worse. The doors are similar, but I know I can trim around them just fine.

Also, oddly, the upstairs toilet is flushing faster. I don't really use it except at night, but thought it sounded really slow the past few weeks. New supply lines, reseated on a new flange, and it sounds like a jet flush now. I'm not complaining, more curious what might have happened to cause a change since I didn't wind up replacing the drain and vent. Although I did simplify the drain...

Trim around that window will look fine. Mine are recessed into the drywall too. Frame the window with trim over the drywall, then step into the recess with quarter round or rip a bigger piece of trim to the right width depending on the recess depth. Then caulk and paint.

Install jamb extension to hide drywall before installing casing:

Basically, you hold the piece up and trace the drywall on the back of it and rip it so it is the exact width from the window frame to the face of the drywall. Even if it's tapered it will work. 

it's beginning to feel a lot like berkeley this.

Gap so bad I can't even drywall for no berkeleying reason? Fine. Duck you, FRP, liquid nails, and caulking. Don't even care anymore, I'm berkeleying sick of this berkeleying bathroom.

In reply to RevRico :

Calm down. You can do this. 
 

All you need to do is bump the bottom of those studs over a little with a sledge hammer, or keep the sheet goods high and fill in under them with cement. 
 

Please don't use drywall in a tub surround. That should be concrete board (like Hardie board)

In reply to SV reX :

Yea probably should have waited for a response, but no patience today with anything.

 I'm just going to glue FRP or something similar too it and the surround itself, maybe get fancy and bend it over the ceiling a bit too.

I'm past the point of caring how it looks, as long as it's together. Mud starts tomorrow period. 

In reply to RevRico :

I think you should walk away for a few days.

Mudding is the WRONG thing to begin when you are short on patience.

Give it a rest.  Take a few days off, and get in a better frame of mind to tackle it well.

I thought this thread was going to be about a Porsche 356 resto. 

In reply to SV reX :

I agree, but the longer this room goes unusable, the madder I'm going to get. Because the teenage honor student CONTINUES to forget to flush the damn toilet, and waking up at 530 and seeing a pile in the bowl from her from the night before just starts my days off wrong.

And needing to replumb the entire house just to run the new shower drain still has me pretty pissy even though all the plumbing is better configured now than it was before.

I think at least one of my tape measures is off too. Measure inside, 13.5"x92.5". Go outside, measure 13x92, cut 13x92, measure again, 13x92. Bring the drywall in, 1/2"+ too big in every direction, holes are off. Maybe time to take a protractor to my T squares as well. 

At least with mud I can smoke a joint, put some music on, and just get mad at myself for screwing up the tape. By the time the house is done I might actually be able to tape though. 

Life lesson learned, never buy a used house again, just build new. It's way way way more expensive and frustrating than a used car. And NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER buy a house I've spent less than 3 hours in, even if no one in the housing industry knows wtf to do because the governor thinks his cabinet business is essential, but home sales and related things aren't. Oh, and move to an area that has day laborers at the home stores, this would have been so much easier in California when I could just pick up half a dozen in the parking lot and put them to work. 

So this is the rest of it right now. Lights are almost straight. That sheet that's behind where the door opens with an inch plus gap at the top is going to get raised up before mud. Measured 91 from sub floor to ceiling, cut 91, that's not a 91 inch hole. 

Nothing in this room was plumb, straight, or square, nothing, so that hasn't helped anything.

Was hoping to avoid using easy sand 45, but I'm going to need a bag before I start because some of these gaps are ridiculous, and I don't trust the 4 gallon of mix n use mud I have to fill the gaps. There are some atrocious gaps, I may even use a filler of some sort under the mud. 

Probably going to wind up with crown molding and base boards just to try to pretty it up a little. Maybe even a chair rail depending on how bad the wall with the medicine cabinet looks after I'm done with it. Whatever, wife can paint the trim and it will help break up the hideous paint she picked out.

Yea, apparently that's a thing. Wife and her friend think they can prime and paint. I suspect I'll get sick of waiting for them and do it myself, but I almost appreciate the gesture. 

Gonna be fun pulling the toilet tank a bunch of times because God forbid we lose the second toilet for a week, but Mikey was nice enough not to put any screws behind it, so at least I won't have to mud behind it. 

Hahaha ! Dude your killing me. All the joints are fine. Once you tape and mud it will be like nothing is wrong. Most tapers I know say Mud hides a thousand sins. 

My advise for all inside corners is to use the metal formed ones. Found this way easier than using just tape and folding it. The more I've been on this round ball I know enough to listen to the guy's that do this full time. I have bounced between paper, fiberglass paper and the self stick webbing tape. They all seem to have their place and I can't say one is better than the other. 

As for the daughter I'm at a loss there. I know if my daughter or son did that they wouldn't have a toilet seat to sit on. Until they learned that that behavior is unacceptable anywhere.

Might want to see if she would do that at a friends house? Sorry man I'm just trying not to laugh my ass off just thinking about walking into the bathroom first thing in the morning and seeing that. 

I feel for you teenagers are not what I would call rational at times. 

Well, mud is done. As long as you don't look at the corners I didn't do a horrible job. Though I'm sure any issue will show themselves tomorrow after primer goes up or whenever she picks her paint color. 

 subtract $1000 from that total for the smoker, and I guess it's reasonable considering labor was me and on one occasion a group of friends that work for food and beer. Also remember I replumbed the whole house in pex and those fittings aren't cheap. There's also 9 sheets of drywall, 4 gallons of mud, 6 studs, 2 2x6s leftover, and I bought a new oscillating tool, sawzall, and shop vac, and mud and paint mixers. 

My mom, thankfully, is going to be a big help and cash this out for us, so we can pay her back at 0 interest instead of 26.99%. Still going to take a while, but with all the other bills coming due like car insurance, I'll happily take the breathing room. Dana's parents had also been offering to help us pay for it but we told them to wait until everything was done. Well, this is everything except a single gallon of paint. 

I got a sheet of FRP, I'm going to do a lot of thinking before I start cutting, but basically going to shield the top of the shower. Glue it around the top perimeter and curve it up to the ceiling, so unless someone sprays water straight up, we should be ok from a water proof point of view. 

New floor is going down last, after I replace the door and get everything painted. Lvp with foam attached. There is Crown molding, baseboard, and door and window trim to go up too. 

Finally starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it doesn't even look like a middle finger, yet. 

That's actually pretty good for a complete repair, remodel of a bathroom. I have about double that in my wife's bathroom. It's not done yet as she had a heart attack with the price of the frameless glass shower enclosure. Had to do the whole sub floor in the bathroom. Shower was leaking and didn't know as it was under the tile. Went to fix something stupid and it turned into a full gut and redo just like yours. That was 8 years ago and still waiting to figure out what she want's to do with the shower. It's basically a big tiled clothes hamper right now.    

2 coats, it actually looks pretty good. I was really worried after the first coat because of how much everything showed through, but the second really cleaned it up. 

It's getting white trim, I was told to paint the inside of the new door white as well. That should help break it up a bit. 

Also, for anyone interested These are the lights I really can't recommend them enough.

The first coat always dries different over mud vs paint vs bare drywall. I'm digging the color. Should pop nicely with white trim. 

How long should I leave the fresh paint alone before I put painter's tape on it? I don't want to mask off for all the trim only to pull the paint off the wall when I'm done. 

In reply to RevRico :

Did you happen to vacuum the walls after sanding the drywall mud? Sometimes you will get some paint that comes off with the tape if you didn't. It usually just requires a little extra touch up. I have had good luck just waiting till the day after painting. I always used the blue painters tape to mask off.

So I've been ignoring this thread for a while. I'll get pictures later.

There is still no trim, no mirror/medicine cabinet, and the old door is still on. 

I tried FRP over the shower and failed miserably. I tried a thick rubber mat over the shower, and failed miserably. U finally said berkeley it and bought hardy board. With the diamond blade on my angle grinder, it worked wonderfully. 2 heavy coats of kilz primer 2 tubes of caulking, and I called it good. The ceiling is still painted drywall, but if they're getting the ceiling soaked I have other problems. 

Shower had now been in use for a few months, no leaks, no staining, no problems so far. 

The bathroom overall is kind of ugly. The painted floor doesn't help much, but the LVP I had purchased was working its way into a cylinder shape as I tried to install it.

But it's functional, I have my private bathroom back again, and we've pretty much decided this is a stop gap until we can afford a professional to come in and do a better job. 

Everybody is mostly happy, some stuff annoys everyone, but it's functional. Lots of lessons learned, lots of wasted money on materials. A few big bullets dodged. 

Been almost a year, might as well show off something.

what the hell is going on here? I even swapped the panels around, and still, the double gap remains. 

It rides better than it used to, but, ah berkeley it, now there's a mirror in the bathroom for the first time in almost 2 years.

And at 2am this morning, the berkeleying mirror fell out of the cabinet and broke. 1 month exactly. 

In reply to RevRico :

There are probably small screws somewhere at the bottom rollers that will adjust the height on each sides. Clockwise will raise or lower and counter clockwise should do the opposite. Hope this helps. Keep at it! It's getting there.