Tunawife says the firewall stays flat black while the inner fenders and underside of hood are body color. I think the inner fender wells are flat black as well. Thoughts?
In reply to tuna55 :
If you care how the factory did it, I believe it was firewall is same as cab color and inner front fenders were matte-black. Kinda makes sense since they would not want to mask off the firewall to paint the cab.
NOHOME said:In reply to tuna55 :
If you care how the factory did it, I believe it was firewall is same as cab color and inner front fenders were matte-black. Kinda makes sense since they would not want to mask off the firewall to paint the cab.
Yeah Pete I know they did body color on the firewall from the factory, but I'm sitting in the position where it's a little opposite. I would have to disassemble a lot of things to get to the firewall well enough to spray it with the rest of the body. So the question now, heavily biased towards something I can aerosol or brush, is which looks better?
Taken from my build: "Five years from now, when this is coated in road grime and blow-by residue, how much am I going to care about how not perfect this is?"
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:Taken from my build: "Five years from now, when this is coated in road grime and blow-by residue, how much am I going to care about how not perfect this is?"
Hear hear
The guy everyone references from the spi forums recommends BC/CC inside and out. Btw.
Is it wise to do epoxy on the interior and exterior during the same event, or to split them up?
Id split. Less stressful. And less chance of dragging the air hose through feesh primer.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:Taken from my build: "Five years from now, when this is coated in road grime and blow-by residue, how much am I going to care about how not perfect this is?"
In Tuna's case, are we sure Five years from now it wont just have dust on it?
I'm just poking fun of course. Always excited to see progress on this build.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Id split. Less stressful. And less chance of dragging the air hose through feesh primer.
Amen.
I find painting to be a long day. Doing inside and out on the same day would affect my concentration before I was done. Do the inside, let your brain process the work done and some muscle memory form for doing the outside.
A trick that I found really useful was to load up my paint gun with the wax and grease remover and spray down the panels as if I were painting the car. ( I had two friends doing the actual wipe down so I could keep spraying). This allowed me to develop/rehearse the spray pattern for covering the whole car. You don't want to be making that up as you go so choreograph the whole thing before you point paint at the truck
As to painting engine bays with stuff in there, tinfoil is your friend. It is easy to wrap/crumple/form around just about anything so you can be more exuberant with the spray gun in the engine bay.
In reply to NOHOME :
Good tips, thanks
In other news, I hate wire wheels
Thanks for the advice about painting and stages, I'll go back to using the blue triscuit stuff to remove this nasty thick black spray paint and then go back to the DA to make sure the scratches are right. It's just a lot slower, but it hates me a lot less.
How do I strip the inside of the cowl? I think it might just get flat black on the blue.
I have never been a stickler for getting every bit of paint off before the epoxy goes on, If the stuff has been there for 50 years it will probably stay there another 50. Sand it to blend it in, degrease and epoxy.
NOHOME said:I have never been a stickler for getting every bit of paint off before the epoxy goes on, If the stuff has been there for 50 years it will probably stay there another 50. Sand it to blend it in, degrease and epoxy.
Deal!
I ran out of time today, but I got the windows out, which was a big deal, removed the inner fenders, fixed a dent in my bodywork that I don't know about, stripped the rest of the exterior, the window channels, and all the little nooks and crannies that the epoxy is going to get on from the outside.
The floor should be body color, although most will be covered with a mat or carpet I guess. I previously used chassis saver on the floor. Can I epoxy over it?
In reply to tuna55 :
I would scuff it with 120 grit or so before I topcoated it. Don't overthink it, if it does eventually fail, nobody is ever going to see it.
The flip side of this game is that a friends MGB that I helped restore has the same quality of paint finish on the inside of the car as on the outside. Nobody will ever know.
Thanks!
One more. Why featherfill instead of the spi primer?
In reply to tuna55 :
I did epoxy to seal everything, then feather fill (equivilent) over it. Seal the metal then do the Bondo type work was my thought.
In reply to java230 :
Yup that's what I am aiming for. I just don't know why Pete was recommending the featherfill over the spi equivalent. Do you have a preference?
In reply to tuna55 :
because I have no experience with SPI high build.
I can't tell you how SPI will thin, spray or sand. So even if they are equivalent products, they might be different to work with.
More to come later, but kid one had the phone so there weren't very many pictures.
Mistakes were made, and it was a very long day.
To start with I got the bright idea with the practicing on the inner fender wells and the cowl would be useful, since I would be addressing them again on the other side at a bare minimum. So I spent way too long stripping both of those pieces, probably 2 hours of the morning spent doing that. Then tuna kid 4 and I spent some time with the wax and grease remover on the truck and those pieces. We went over the whole truck at least three times wiping and wiping and wiping. Everything went wrong, or at least started to, when I started to spray the stuff from the gun. It turns out that somehow, some way, the paint cup had broken and was leaking at the base. We had to make a completely unscheduled and time consuming trip to hazard fraud to find a replacement.
Back at home, still with enough time to finish the job before I needed to make dinner, I filled up the gun again with the new cup. It was leaking everywhere. Apparently some idiot had reassembled the gun incorrectly last time, and also Eastwood did not provide any sort of exploded assembly diagram for me to figure it out. I had to reassemble the thing probably 15 times before I got it right. It took a legitimate hour from getting home to the store to being ready to spray the wax and grease remover again.
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