I'd put a sonnax reman vb on it. At this point still relatively cheap and easy. Doesn't fix it, then you need rebuild and the valve body can go into new trans.
I'd put a sonnax reman vb on it. At this point still relatively cheap and easy. Doesn't fix it, then you need rebuild and the valve body can go into new trans.
In reply to Ranger50 and Patrick:
At some point, i will probably ls swap it with a 6.0 or something. However, at this time id like to remain relatively stock and simple and reliable. Ive never really gotten comfortable with long hauls in a heavily modified/engine swap vehicle. And the 350 in this thing is a total jewel.
Having said that, at some point it will make more sense to ls swap it.
Is a 95 4l60e going to play ok with ls electronics? Id rather build one/buy one once, not multiple times....
Isnt the 95 4L60E wiring and valve body one year only?
In reply to solfly :
Im not sure, to be honest. The quick lookup i did for the sonnax valve body seemed to indicate it was.
Automatic transmissions are voodoo man. I really feel in over my head on this. But on the other hand, i feel like im making a mountain out of a mole hill.
I did get my paper 1995 factory service manual in today. I think, when i get the time and bandwidth, im going to read the whole automatic transmissions section about the 4l60e. Seems like it may be educational....
smelled rich at idle. Figured a tune up was due anyway. Who the hell puts motocraft platinum plugs in a chevy?
but, plugs, wires, cap, rotor are done.
The same person who puts motorcraft plugs in a chevy is the same person who puts autolights in a dodge
I should do mine...
I think I am going to toss the old blue gm nascar 6al msd box on this thing if i can find a wiring diagram. Cant hurt, right?
can't hurt
I see no reason not to
If you end up with a crank, no start situation, check the coil power wires. I have had a few that break at the connector, because of gravity. Never figured out why GM decided to hang a bundle of wire unsupported for a decent distance and make a greater than 90 degree turn into the plug.... Seeing your picture reminded me about that....
In reply to Ranger50 :
Ill have to look at that closer. On both trucks.
Also, if i hadn't just taken the prescription migraine meds, i was supposed to be pulling the bed today. Im trading for a much straighter black bed and tailgate, which makes me happy. While the bed is off, ill clean and paint the back of the frame, as well as get the front hanger rivets out to make the rear 4 inch drop easier later.
previously: 1741.47
new stuff:
returned trailer hitch and socket, trans cooler and lines. -64.46
correct hitch, front tow hooks, gmt800 master cyl: 15.00
power mirror switch: 14.99 amazon
stereo adapter harness 3.98
stereo dash kit: 4.99 pullapart
blaupunkt Tennessee stereo: free
belltech 4 inch rear drop kit: 161.30
inner door handles autex from amazon: 19.69
infinity reference speakers: had
door sound deadening: had
used belltech spindles: 50
15x8 truck rallys and center caps: 50
new chrome grille/lights 100
overhead console form a blazer: 22.96
new total 2119.92
so, ive been busy! Well, not very busy, but busy enough I guess. I like this truck, and its all been fairly simple maintenance and repairs so far, with a little fun stuff thrown in. because I like fun stuff.
Anyway, when we left off last time, dad and I had done the steering linkage and given the truck a good once over. I didn't have a picture, so I took a crappy one to make up for that.
20200925_180506 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I went ahead and changed the rest of the fluids and filters. I had planned while the trans pan was down to replace the 1-2 accumulator due to hard shifting, but saw no appreciable wear or any issues with the one in the truck. So I left it alone, hoping fresh fluid would fix it. I also found that the used cooler and lines I picked up were not usable, so I returned them. Same with the suburban trailer hitch (hint: apparently the freaking frames are different! ) I eventually got the factory in radiator trans cooler hooked up and the hacked in aftermarket one out of the system. Unfortunately, none of this fixed the hard shifts. But it did give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. So I have that going for me.
20200925_180454 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
we also fluched the brake fluid, chenged the diff fluid, lubed all the hinges, greased all the zerk fittings. You know, normal maintenance.
When I brought it home, I went ahead to go after the broken passengers side door handle. I swear it worked when I bought it, but stopped. Anyway, ordered a nice pair from amazon, and cracked the filthy freaking doors open. I didnt take a before picture, but the nicotine and filth was appalling. The factory door speakers were surprisingly intact though! Regardless, I swapped them for a pair of infinity reference 6.5 speakers I pulled from a parts car. They are my favorite speakers of all time, and I try to put them in everything. I also have a pair of nice sounding 6.5 from a different parts car for the rear speakers if I ever dig that deep.
20200926_181058 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
so, I cleaned and lubed all the window mechanisms and latches, added some peel and seal sound deadening, replaced broken door panel fasteners, tightened loose fasteners, etc. just cleaning and maintenance, with replacing the broken handles and upgrading the speakers.
20200926_181839 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I also cleaned up the door panels. Castrol superclean, a scrub brush, and a hose. Passengers side (done) vs drivers side (not). Both were done. Before re-installation. The difference was hard to photograph, but easy to see.
20200928_081050 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
went ahead and did the same stuff to the drivers door, in addition to replacing the dead power mirror switch.
20200928_132816 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
then moved on to the turn signal switch. Pulled the steering wheel and airbag, replaced the switch, and glued the column covers back together in the hops of making it better. No good picture of the switch, but you can mostly see it in the picture here. You can also see the funky and collapsed drivers seat. If anyone withing a reasonable drive if Charlotte NC has a tan 60/40 bench with armrest in good shape, please let me know. Reasonable is 5 hours each way.....
20200929_074931 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20200930_123116 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201003_185106 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
while I had it all apart, I went ahead and installed the free stereo my scrap guy gave me. Works really good! Grabbed the dash kit from the junkyard, the antenna adapter came with the stereo, and the wiring harness adapter was cheap on amazon. So, roughly $10 stereo upgrade!
20200928_132812 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
since were talking about interior stuff, I went ahead and grabbed the long console from a blazer. The DIC supposedly reads the data stream for instant MPG and stuff on the obd2 trucks. However, this one isn't obd2 yet. Eventually it will work properly when I swap an LS in. after the tbi dies.
20201001_115959 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I also grabbed a proper hitch for a truck, instead of the suburban one that doesn't clear the bumper. It has a neat setup for wiring, and i'll show that when I utilize it. This came off a service body truck over at my scrap guys house.
20200930_080046 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
went ahead and did a tune up as well, since we did everything else. Somebody had put motorcraft platinum plugs in it. Dunno how that seemed like a good idea, but apparently it was at the time....
20201001_074728 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201001_073921 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201003_185146 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
lastly, I have made a plan and goal for the truck. Stock appearing, 2/4 drop on 15s, and black. I found this truck in a thread somewhere and it speaks to me. Its what I want to own.
Pic9913[1] by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
so, I worked out a trade. Beige bed for a straight black one, beige hood for a straight black one, and fix a honda for paint and body labor. I have a gallon of matrix black basecoat and good clear like I used on the neon on the shopping list for next week. This week, I got the belltech four inch drop parts (wifes birthday present to me!) and dropped off the bed with steve.
When I dropped it off, we noted that despite multiple rounds of undercarriage washing, this thing still look like a swamp truck. Also, the rear cab wall is pretty banged up.
20201003_151314 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201003_151319 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201003_185051 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
so, pressure washer. Again. For the umpteenth time.
20201003_153827 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20201003_153833 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
next up, rear hangars install and frame paint, along with bodywork on the back of the cab. Im not looking forward to removing the rivets on this.....
You do in a week what takes me 2 years.
In reply to solfly :
The curse of never sitting down. Im one of those folks who just CAN'T stop moving. Damn near manic half the time.
Maybe when lil solfly is a bit older.
I what's the plan for the back of the cab? Just bang it out?
Would lowering help, hurt, or make no difference on towing?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
The way I am lowering it, in addition to adding the load bags, payload capacity will be the same if not more than it was originally after it's been lowered
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Bang it out and smooth it over with some mud
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to OHSCrifle :
Bang it out and smooth it over with some mud
Please tell me that you're going to use a stud welder so that I can see how the one a bought 4 years ago works.
If i had one, i would! But i dont, so sheetmetal screw and slide hammer, or try to get to it from the other side
I welded nails on a project, and used the old vice grips on a slide hammer bit.
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:I welded nails on a project, and used the old vice grips on a slide hammer bit.
You're a damn GENIUS
Standing on the shoulders of giants, my friend.
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