Drivabeater 4.0: the truck i should have built last time

My daughter loves doing spray paint. Shes not good at it yet. But, enthusiasm is good! I need more spray paint now. And ill finish touching it up.

No pictures. Yet.

Stampie (FS) said:

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to OHSCrifle :

Bang it out and smooth it over with some mud

Please tell me that you're going to use a stud welder so that I can see how the one a bought 4 years ago works.

yeah me too mine is now outta the attic awaitiing further instructions...

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to Ranger50 :

Ill have to look at that closer. On both trucks. 

 

Also, if i hadn't just taken the prescription migraine meds, i was supposed to be pulling the bed today. Im trading for a much straighter black bed and tailgate, which makes me happy. While the bed is off, ill clean and paint the back of the frame, as well as get the front hanger rivets out to make the rear 4 inch drop easier later.

what is your plan for "cleaning the frame" tools pads etc.....what is your "paints" of choice for this exercise?

Tanks get some rest bro.....

So, cleaning is pressure washer and purple power. Same as everything else. Followed by metal ready from por 15. I talked myself into rustoleum spray paint this time for ease and time, especially since im working outside and on a timetable for paint and body. 

My neighborhood must hate me....

Between yesterday and this morning,  we got the rivits out. Grinder, air chisel,  and finally the five pound hammer. 

chill

In reply to solfly :

Like, take a break? Or like "that progress is pretty chill, man"?

Either way, i can agree! Done for today. And probably tomorrow as well. Have to help brother dallas fix his plumbing truck tomorrow,  and tonight is scouts. 

Do you mean you are cutting chassis crossmembers and brackets out before cleaning up the rust?

In reply to eastsideTim :

Sorry! Didn't mean to be that unclear. 

The factory front hangers for tbe leaves are rivited in. The belltech drop hangers bolt in place of the factory stuff for a 2 inch drop. The worst part of install is getting the rivits out. 

Slas fas as rust goes, nothing beyond surface was found! Im ok with the rustoleum rattle can black plan.

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to solfly :

Like, take a break? Or like "that progress is pretty chill, man"?

Either way, i can agree! Done for today. And probably tomorrow as well. Have to help brother dallas fix his plumbing truck tomorrow,  and tonight is scouts. 

take a break

Michael , I have the following items that depending upon your response or others ....I can bring with me to the challenge.

• hidden hitch -bolts to the underside of your frame rails pointing down 
• the receiver for said hitch that is "L" shaped and peeks out from underneath the.....
• fiberglass panel that spans between the rear fender bottoms (eliminating you rear bumper)
• another fiberglass panel that hides your wipers.....yeah I know wtberk is that all about, me thinks this more a SoCal kinda thing for that smeeeeeooooooth show truck look

Serve and volley.......

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

I appreciate the offer!

I honestly don't see me using that stuff on either truck at this time, unfortunately. However,  i have been wanting to do a caddy taillights/Escalade clip pro street style truck, and those would be perfect. How much are you thinking?

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

I appreciate the offer!

I honestly don't see me using that stuff on either truck at this time, unfortunately. However,  i have been wanting to do a caddy taillights/Escalade clip pro street style truck, and those would be perfect. How much are you thinking?

Also down with this  "caddy taillights/Escalade clip " .... and from my grosh to yours .......$000.00 like free ?

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

SOLD!!!!

can you give them to stampie to add to the pike of my crap at his house for him to bring up at Christmas? 

Thanks for this.  I super appreciate it. 

Yu Betcha Bro

Might need a hitch for the 350z.  But something can be figured out.

I think, for now,  im only going to drop it 2/3 and see what i think. 

Im trying to find the line between utility and style with this thing. I really don't want to notch it,  have it bottom and rub, or need the load bags fr an engine in the bed. But, i also hate having a lot of wheelwell gap.

The trucks i see that have that look, at least on the internet,  are claimed 2/4, 3/4, 4/5. On 235/75/15 or 255/70/15 tires and stock wheels. The black one i linked earlier was claimed 3/4 on 255/70/15, with rubbing up front. Ive had enough rubbing with the red truck for now. 

All this is to say that I'll probably regret the mild drop and wind up on bags or a 4/6 or something. But i want to explore the option of mikd for now.

Oh, and the rear shackles are in this morning. I love rust free things. Still have the pinion shims and bumpstops to do, rear shocks, rear brake hose whike its easy,  and straighten/paint the cab wall. Then i can go put the bed back on.

I had a 90 that had such long drop shackles that the leaf spring would hit the bed crossmember with weight in it.  Don't go that far

Patrick (Forum Supporter) said:

I had a 90 that had such long drop shackles that the leaf spring would hit the bed crossmember with weight in it.  Don't go that far

Agreed. Id hope to do this whole thing with no cutting....

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to Ranger50 and Patrick:

At some point,  i will probably ls swap it with a 6.0 or something. However,  at this time id like to remain relatively stock and simple and reliable. Ive never really gotten comfortable with long hauls in a heavily modified/engine swap vehicle. And the 350 in this thing is a total jewel. 

Having said that,  at some point it will make more sense to ls swap it. 

Is a 95 4l60e going to play ok with ls electronics? Id rather build one/buy one once, not multiple times....

You will most likely have to at least update the internal harness if not replace solenoids. Honestly If you intend to upgrade that LS at all then a 4L80e makes more sense. Also a thought on the whole LS swap you might be better off buying a rotted out GMT800 and pulling the drivetrain. They go for stupid cheap up here in PA (like $4-500 for a 1500 or $1000-1200 for a 1500HD/2500 series)  if you want I could keep an eye out for you?

In reply to OneSickGNX :

I really appreciate the offer! It's something that I have to sleep on.  Hopefully now is not the time to start looking,  but i wouldn't be able to turn down a $500 low mileage 2wd donor either....

+1 on the suggestion to go with a 4L80 instead of the 4L60 when doing the LS swap. 

The 2wd part becomes more difficult up here but the Ventura vans come in handy for that and for some reason the 3/4 ton trucks seem to be 2wd more often than 1/2 tons they would also have a 6.0/4L80e. a lot of the vans just have 4.8s as the full size vans had them in 3/4 and 1 ton instead of a 5.3 or 6.0 but they are still potent little motors. Not sure on the low mileage either but if it doesn’t have a lifter failure or rod bearing failure by 150k it probably won’t so sometimes the higher mile mills are the better ones to go with. If you just want a motor/harness/accessories, there is a u-pull it yard close by with enough 4.8/5.3 for an easy $300 pull out. Usually the transmissions fail or the frame rots before the motors go up here.

are you comfortable with the control arm trimming required to run the 15" wheels with the 2" drop spindles?

In reply to solfly :

Yes. I may plate them if it makes me too uncomfortable, but there are many trucks that have done many, many miles on trimmed lcas without failing.