In reply to Brokeback (Matt) :
ooo and a fellow santa cruz rider! (I have a tallboy) I'm definately looking to get up and do some riding in flagstaff once I finish sorting out the wagon if you're ever looking for a very slow riding buddy.
In reply to Brokeback (Matt) :
ooo and a fellow santa cruz rider! (I have a tallboy) I'm definately looking to get up and do some riding in flagstaff once I finish sorting out the wagon if you're ever looking for a very slow riding buddy.
Absolutely - let me know, if you message me I'll send you my cell or FB details. Currently out of town for a couple more weeks but am hoping to get back on the bike when I return. I'm not good at riding technical-skills wise and I'm also out of shape (18 month old twins) so you'll fit right in!
Bah humbug.
Made a big push this weekend to wrap up the car for an alignment that was scheduled for tomorrow. Got the car on the ground ready for it's maiden voyage this afternoon only to discover the car will fire up, idle for 10-20 seconds and then shut off. I can get it to stay running slightly longer if I use throttle. but it still triggers the EML light and shuts down.
Spent 5-6 hours trying to troubleshoot without much success. I have fuel, and I can hear the pump/relay priming, I can also trigger them with my scanner. but I'm still getting a host of misfire codes, and a code for a fuel pump relay?
Finally had to walk away from the car. I'm sure once I figure out the issue it's gonna be smack my forehead simple. But right now it's frustrating.
It looks pretty good on the ground!
my cornucopia of engine codes:
Well, at least they all seam related. I'm guessing walking away for a bit will be your best troubleshooting step at this point.
Is there a way you can see what the fuel pressure is?
adam525i said:Well, at least they all seam related. I'm guessing walking away for a bit will be your best troubleshooting step at this point.
Is there a way you can see what the fuel pressure is?
I plan to pick up a fuel pressure test gauge after work tonight, BMW didn't make it easy with this one, the only tap spot is on the fuel pressure regulator which is located conveniently under the car buried below several panels.
A buddy mentioned he thought it strange I have misfires on 1-4 instead of the usual bank 1 or bank 2 type issues you'd usually see for electrical/o2 sensor type codes. which might jive with fuel pressure related issues since it feeds from back to front?
The line for the FPR is pretty tiny/long, I guess I won't be entirely surprised if I discover that somehow got damaged during the swap.
Taking a break from my depression fueled FoMo at OLOA to bring the thread back to current:
Rebuilt the rear subframe with the following components: Revshift subframe bushings, Powerflex front diff bushing, Turner Motorsports control arms with rubber inner bushings, Bimmerworld spherical RTABS, Ground Control articulating rear spring perches.
It's a good thing it's out of sight under the car, because choosing parts based on their performance does not a lead to a cohesive color scheme.
in between that I put a top coat of paint on the rear subframe reinforcements. it doesn't match, but since it will all be hidden under interior trim, it's good enough for me.
Then it was time to move onto brakes and suspension. As previously mentioned I went for 135i calipers with stock E46 M3 rotors. I always had really good luck with the Centric high carbon rotors on my racecar, so that's what I'm using here, although with a decidedly more street friendly Brembo OE pad.
The whole combo, with Apex spacers to get the 135i fitment 17x9 arc8's where they need to be.
After getting the brakes and suspension on I was ready to torque the rear camber arms at ride height, I had some help getting this task done:
While we were under the car we threw a new Meyle HD guibo on:
Cleaned up a bunch of the underbody parts in preparation for the first drive:
These parts were all pretty nasty, I had totally intended to take an after pic...but seem to have forgotten
Bleeding the brakes, nearly time for a test drive!
On the ground ready for it's first test drive!
Unfortunately this was approximately the point that I realized the car will run, but it misfires a bunch, and after 15-20 seconds of idling it throws a CEL and shuts the car off. I've been fighting that for several weeks and found a handful of vacuum leaks which I fixed, a buddy came over and we discovered the timing was off a bit so we re-timed the motor. I also fired the parts cannon at the fuel system with new FPR/Line/filter in case any of those got contaminated during the swap. All made it better, but it's still not driveable. It will idle longer, before still throwing the same codes. Work has been getting pretty hectic recently too so I finally made the decision to tap out and get some professional help. I'll be trailering the car to a local shop (Haus of Euro) this evening so they can take a stab at diagnosing the car.
I'm now 7 months into my 2 month project, it's getting hot, I want my car back driving 
It might be 7 months into your 2 month project, but it is going to be so cool when your done. All the proportions of that wagon look just right.
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) said:It might be 7 months into your 2 month project, but it is going to be so cool when your done. All the proportions of that wagon look just right.
That's what I keep telling myself!
I've been extremely bummed all week watching friends compete at OLOA while I'm at work. However, I just heard rumor today that a west coast "OLOA experiance" may be occurring this fall! so that's the new target for having the car really well sorted!
It's probably not running right because it's missing GRM stickers.
For real though, maybe something like a crank angle sensor?
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