Hope the sealant works and you get to put some miles . on .
Hope the sealant works and you get to put some miles . on .
In reply to dave215 :
Me too!
The bars leaks stuff is a process....flush system, mix the bottle with 3 quarts warm water and directly into the radiator, fill system with water, run 10 or until the t'stat opens, sit until the cool enough to open the cap for a top up, run until operating temp then 15, cool 45, top up, run until operating then 20 at high idle, cool 1 hour, drain, sit with drains open 12-24 flush, refill. All the running is done, tomorrow I'll know....I'll probably fill it with water again tomorrow just in case I need to repeat.
No change with the new sealer.....I'll try 1 more time tonight. Shame because its running so nice. I changed the throttle control table to have a temperature axis to control idle so now it starts and holds idle nicely as it warms up.
I'm starting to suspect shimming the liners did a lot more harm than good and if I pulled the heads I'd find the liners that are leaking are back to 0 or negative deck height because there just isn't enough meat in the deck at the flange to hold them.....that's my guess anyway. but I'll sealer again before I call it and rethink the liner height design.
Changed my mind. I think there WAS a coolant leak but its fixed or mostly fixed and what I have now is oil. I have straight water in the coolant and I pulled the plugs hot to check them a couple hours ago, it can't still have water on it and the intake ports of the offending cylinder are very slippery. There has always been a touch of blue smoke, particularly from the front bank....like say cylinder 7.
This looks like oil.
Now the question is from where exactly is if leaking? I did cut into the cam galley when I moved the intake ports.....
Clean it out as best you can and start it for a heat cycle, check the next day. If you didn't move the port i'd say seal or guide.
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
I started pulling the intake. The plan is there is just 1 vent so I should be able to get some pressure I the cam covers and with the I take off maybe see something. Plus I'm very confused about needing to trim the cylinders and suspect the injetors are misbehaving so I can get them checked as well. It's alway something
A thought I had this morning was I could probably add a couple PCV valves so there is not a 50kPA (7.5 psi) reason for oil to flow into the intake ports. My fear is if air is leaking in somewhere it would really mess up the vacuum on whatever cylinders I connect them to.
Are their2 issues-oil pooling in the wrong place and oil film on the throttle bodies ?Not sure why a crankcase catch can with vacuum from the plenum wouldn't help the vapor issue .
dave215 said:Are their2 issues-oil pooling in the wrong place and oil film on the throttle bodies ?Not sure why a crankcase catch can with vacuum from the plenum wouldn't help the vapor issue .
I think its 1 issues, oil in the intake ports. With the overlap in the cams I have the simulator says there is about 18% charger loss to reversion below 1600rpm so any place its leaking oil into the port will coat the whole port not just the down stream area...and you can see that in the the last short I posted, when I hit the throttle, #7 for certain puffs blue smoke out the intake. The front bank exhaust (the right side tips) also have have a touch of blue visible in most all the videos going back to the first runs. #8 had a catastrophic failure so early stuff I just blamed on the that....then I had the Evans coolant leaking and that stuff is oily and will burn so then I blamed that.....and regular coolant is slick and shiny.....and so was the blue devil sealant.... so I'm out of excuses now and need to accept that there has always been an oil issue. 
....and I did cut massive holes into the cam galley
And the same kind of work in the water passages did result in water leaks that I had to find and fix
I made a set of plates to seal the head so I could pressurize the water passages and found and fixed at l/2 a dozen issues and I remember thinking about the oil side....but didn't have a great plan for how to pressure test it and figured a little oil isn't nearly as bad as water issues.....I should have thought harder.
so the oil leak is possibly around the perimeter of the fly cuts accumulates on the back of the valve face and scatters as valve opens which is most of the time .dye might workwith shop air ,my assumption is the cam journals in same oil feed .and provide enough restriction to make the leak visible with th dye .dunno big wag .
In reply to dave215 :
My plan is pull the intake, send the injectors back to injector dynamics to be tested and cleaned so I know if they are causing the mixture imbalance, sort out the problems I've been having with my TB linkage design, and see if pressurizing the crankcase will find wholes in the intake ports.....I'm assuming there are holes but I've not decided how I might fix them yet.
Now that is a lot of oil....now to find the source.
I bought some ID injectors because I remembered a lot of good things about Paul Yaw when he was THE guy to go to if you wanted a carburetor set up right for an early RX-7, and I liked how the injectors came with well-characterized data sheets.
Which ended up being completely useless for me even though I was using one of the computers that they had been characterized for. (ID1050x injectors with an MS2/Extra, running the surface mount 3.57 circuit board because I prefer SMDs to discrete components given my motorsports proclivities)
And then I discovered that they were very heat sensitive and the latency changed dramatically with engine heat. Like I tuned the car around town fully warmed up, I started a drive fully warmed up, cruising at about 13:1, and after about three hours I was leaner than 16:1 and the car barely ran. Did a quick retune on the side of the road to get me there, and of course it was way too rich once everything cooled off again. This was independent of IAT and CLT. Never had that issue with the original ND injectors, or the Injection Perfection pieces of crap or the RC injectors.
Other people have nothing but good to say about ID injectors, so I don't get it.
Not a great pic, but for sure there is a hole in my weld
It's pretty deep no way I'm welding it with the heads on, I'm thinking I'll grind it and pick an adhesive until the heads are off again
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Well that makes me sad to hear :(
In reply to mke :
My setup is fairly "intense" as far as latency sensitivity is concerned. Megasquirt bases all fuel calculations off of "req_fuel" which would be the pulsewidth for a 100% VE cylinder fill. I have a rotary with only two injectors, so they have to fire once per revolution, and my req_fuel with those big injectors is in the 4ms range. My light load and cruise pulsewidths are in the 1.1ms range, plus latency (deadtime in MS-speak). A 10% change in latency makes for a large difference in fuel delivered. And my injectors are basically bolted straight to the engine, and the fuel system gets very hot because the fuel system and tank are right by where the heat likes to collect over the solid axle.
I have been told that I could probably adjust for that with a fuel temperature sensor. That seems like a lot more fiddling around than I care to do, because it would require logging and adjusting for new and exciting operation regions that are hard to get to. What I WANT is a mixture adjustment knob like the SDS-EFI systems had. Running a little lean? Turn the knob a bit and keep truckin'. 
In reply to mke is brazing an option ?
the hobart aluminrods worked well on my hvac tubes.
dave215 said:In reply to mke is brazing an option ? the hobart aluminrods worked well on my hvac tubes.
That was my 1st thought when I was realizing what's likely causing the oil issue. I've never messed with it but I googles it and was givign it some thought, but seeing how deep into the port and how close to the guide the issue is I'm really not very trying with the heads on the engine.
I ordered H-450 Alumbond 6.5 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit to try. it say its excellent with gasoline resistance. Its only got to hold the 50-55kPA idle vacuum.
I'm also thinking about adding a PCV setup so some kind to get rid of most of that differential pressure....Im not sure how sealed the engine actually is of how it might affect the oil tank setup.
I used the jb weld steelstick on a spot where I poked through a head bolt boss while porting. Its held up all year to methanol.
pete, you can do table blends with a pot on ms3
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I'm in a similar boat....idle fuel pulse is about 1ms (+ latency) running the older ID1000 injectors. I'm set up to have a mx duty cycle around 35% so at power the fuel spays into a moving air stream, which is theory means the vaporizing fuel is mostly cooling the air not the port of valves. Anyway, very short injector pulses.
I do have a fuel temp sensor, but I haven't set it up to adjust mixture....its on the to-do list somewhere.......for now I just log it.
I think every ECU I've ever messed with had the ability to add a mixture trim knob, I've never installed one but I recall seeing it in the setup guides. MS doesn't have a global fuel trim you can tie to an AN input?
In reply to mke :
i misunderstood that it is a drip not an oil feed leak .no real pressures involved .Anyway those brazing rods really work for future references .
In reply to mke :
Not directly, but it can be done with table blending as mentioned, or maybe tell the computer that your trim pot (or multi-way switch with discrete resistors) is actually an ethanol sensor, which will do a global fuel alteration when you have a computer from the cheap seats
The MS community is... weird. If you tell them that there is a simple, analog/mechanical way to solve a problem, they throw hissy fits and insist that doing it digitally is better.
Looking at the new tires there is quite a difference. Technically its 285 to 295 so 10mm wider and checking tirerack specs that looks true on section width....but tread width I'm going from 9.6" to 11". I just dropped them off for mounting so I'll find out tonight how wise this plan is.
Hey MKE,
Did you do your own alignment with the modified suspension or take it somewhere?
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/shimset-classic-ferrari-alignment-shims.html
I have this kit from Ricambi and I'm about to do an alignment with a very low suspension and I'm curious if you had luck getting in the ballpark with these.
Thanks
You'll need to log in to post.
