Sounds great!
Sounds great!
In reply to gixxeropa : have a normal flasher in it right now, so I need an LED one, but I was full expecting either a solid turn signal or hyper flash. Am I wrong and getting absolutely nothing is normal?
The LED flasher fixed it, but the turn signal switch on the stalk is busted. just gonna wire it all up to switches on the dash. I don't want a single scrap of british wiring left in this car when I'm done
Had an issue with turn signals not working when the tails were on, then realized it probably was the LED bulbs I have not acting like a dual filament. So I ordered a new set. So now I have headlights, turn signals, brake lights, and hazards. Just need to get wipers and window motors, then I'm gonna call wiring done for a while, and I'm very glad
OK got the Windows and turn signals all working properly. The painless wiring kit I got would be great if I had a 70s GM truck, but having a highly modified mid engined car makes it less painless. I'v had to reorganize their bundles because they assume a lot of stuff is going to the front that actually needs to go to the back. Were I doing it again I'd probably just go completely from scratch
Rooting for you! What does the list look like until first street drive? Let's meet up at a cars and coffee with our crazy Europa swaps.
In reply to maschinenbau :
At this point the list is mostly not related to the car lol, just waiting for a nice day when I'm not sick and have the energy to shuffle trailers around to get it out of the garage.
as far as the car I just need to adjust the parking brake cable and bolt the seat belts back in
Trying to remove the second gas tank, but it seems Colin Chapman intended working on his cars to be a team sport. Each of the several bolt heads is inside the engine bay while the nuts are behind an access panel in the wheel well. The bolt heads are also so close to the tank you can't get a wrench on them we'll and the angle isn't very conducive to vice grips. Probably just gonna cut them off tomorrow, at least the ones I can reach with the grinder
These things are challenging to work on! The car also has to be quite high to get the tank out the bottom....
In reply to TurboFource :
I don't remember having this much trouble with the twin cam, but the tanks are different, the twin cam has captive nuts, while the S2 has just normal nuts and bolts. With no engine installed I was able to get it out the top, but that doesn't look like an option with the S2 tank
Looks like I need to replace the bottom part of the firewall, the top part is still solid. Might just rivet some aluminum sheet in its place, either that or make some flat fiberglass plates and glass those in. I can't imagine the original fiberboard provided much in the way of structural strength so I'm sure either would hold up
Got the tank out. Cut one bolt off, one sheared when I tried to loosen it, and 2 split just from the force of me putting on a vice grip with one hand. So 0 for 4 on trying to get them out the intended way. The icing on the cake was spilling a bunch of gas from the seventies on the floor because it wasn't as empty as I thought. It was so evaporated it had turned reddish and looked like agricultural diesel lol
Fifty year old gas that was in my carb....at least it didn't have ethanol in it!
In reply to gixxeropa :Mine needs some work too....
Replaced my OEM "clear hooters" single horn with a Fiamm GM dual horn setup. Much nicer, but a less humorous name
Gixx,
I am thinking of using Coosa Board on my firewall, it is from the boating industry, lighter and stronger than plywood and doesn't absorb water. You can fiberglass it etc.
I beefed up the perimeter flanges with more fiberglass and plywood, then bolted in some 1/8" aluminum panels. My firewall was completely rotten though.
Provides nice access too maschinebau !
drive it out of the garage under its own power, it then promptly started having issues with the clutch and shifting so I had to abort for the moment
I like that gas tank setup. I need to do something similar.
In reply to maschinenbau :
I've got a surge tank in the engine compartment that it's hooked to, necessary to prevent starving since it's so flat. There wasn't really anything on the market that fit well there so I had RCI make one. Only marginally more than an off the shelf one. Almost a bit disappointed, because I wanted to try aluminum welding, but the math didn't make sense when the raw materials were almost as much as the tank, And I'd have to buy a TIG welder
The surge tank is an eBay Chinese special but I'm impressed with the quality. Pretty welds, square, and no leaks
Seems like the clutch is not fully engaging or disengaging. Works well enough on jacks but not with weight on the wheels. Gonna try just changing the oil, because people said on the forums that can help. After that it might need a new Slave cylinder. Also the wilwood remote reservoir leaks where the metal line attaches to the plastic reservoir so I need to tend to that
Gixx,
Does this have a reversing box or anything?
The dune buggy rear end i have has a reverse gear built in, I like that a lot better than what some people do by having a second starter motor that they use as an electric reverse. There are also inline reverse gears for driveshaft driven cars
đź‘Ť
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