In reply to TurboFource :
roll bar isn't light, still has the glass, plus i mentioned it before but the hood and deck lid are heavier than the ones on the twin cam body i have
plus if i went for a lighter duty, less overbuilt rear end without reverse, I could probably save 50lbs there. Might still do that if it ends up seeing less street driving
Wow that's like 200 lbs lighter than a stock one! I didn't expect it to be THAT light!
In reply to maschinenbau :
Planning on even more lightening 
gonna go for a lexan front and back windshield (and sell the unobtainium front windshield), some lighter brake components, and remake a few things in carbon fiber (more as an experiment in mold making than trying to save a few grams tbh). Might also try to find some S1 doors with the removable lexan windows, they also don't use a door card, they just have finished fiberglass surfaces on the inside.
this is all far in the future as I have cash/time/motivation, but I'm confident I can get it to at least 1200 flat, maybe 1150 or so without the roll bar (haven't weighed the bar separately so I'm not sure it's exact weight)
You can modify the S2 door to accept the one piece windows, the slot for the drop glass needs filling in and a flange built up. Going to S1 doors requires different door latches, strikers and interior handles that are rarer than hens teeth. That is unless you find an S1 or an R16 to steal parts from. I will say that the S2 doors without the window lift motor, glass and frame are very light.
This all reminds me that I should put mine on a scale and see how heavy it is.
In reply to RoddyMac17 :
was hoping my dad would have some in his stash, since he has some S1 chassis stuff, but no dice. will probably modify the S2 doors like you said, thanks for the tip!
My window motors were completely rusted so I attached a strap to the bottom of the glass and a tie-off post on the door. There are two holes in the strap, one for "up" and one for "down". It works well and is very light.
In reply to maschinenbau :
if you want a set of regulators and motors i've got some lol. Also, for anyone else's reference, I believe they're the same as some GM window motors of the era, including the corvette ones
looking at switching to a 2017+ engine on advice of a F1000 guy, some reliability issues fixed and 200 hp out of the box.
There is a company that makes coated lexan (polycarbonate maybe?) windshields for the Europa, supposedly you can sparingly use the wipers on them.... I can try to find the link again if you are interested
We ran wipers on our lexan (coated) windsheild in our racecar. No issues.
However, you really need to support the windshield well or it vibrates and rattles while going down the road.
In reply to TurboFource :
I'm probably going to make it myself, but it would still be interesting to see the link if you can find it
Kelvedon lists the windscreen and side windows, not cheap, but they do make them
Letting the Europa sit for a while so I'm working on the F600. Replaced the front skid plate section, new FIA rated belts good until 2028, removed the pieces of under tray that were mangled when I threw a chain in my last race.
I think I found why it threw the chain. A collar came off the inside of the jack shaft.
next up: fix the rear diffuser, replace the inside chain, some brake work, fix where the body got wrecked by the chain when it came loose.
Not sure what I'm gonna do with the F600, don't really have the time or money right now to do a full season of road racing. Thinking of selling/trading it for a 2 stroke F600 set up for autocross, since I could make that work with my life easier
not terrible for a patch made with cobra pliers and a hammer. Not really structural anyway
also finally got around to adding a safety chain and real battery clamps on my lift
think these have more grip than the Hoosiers? They're transport wheels to make getting it on and off the trailer easier
did the brakes today, as well as finished up the slider. Just need a new chain and to finish up the bodywork and it's ready to go, whatever I decide to do with it
Doing some bodywork, it's so hot my fillers curing in about 30 seconds. Still managed to get a coat on though.
Some bodywork on the F600, part much everything with filler on it was completely obliterated when the chain came off, so I made a mold based on pictures and put some glass on, then a bit of fiberglass impregnated filler, then a skim coat of normal filler. Will do another coat of normal filler to fine tune the body line. I'm only going for a 10 footer or so, as it's a race car and in all likelihood, a chain will eventually destroy that body panel again
One more coat of filler and sanding done. Is a 10 footer but that's all I was going for since I wasn't fixing any of the other cracking on the other body panels.
now to decide if I'll just cover everything in plastic sheeting even I spray, or get one of those inflatable paint booths. Anyone have experience? I could also use it for other projects going forward if they're actually worthwhile
new chains. always nice to have fix the tool before you do the job, in this case it was my rivet master link tool. It has a spring in a threaded hole, which I thought was a bad idea from the get go, and it got wedged into the threads and messed them up. Had to fully disassemble it, pry out the spring then chase the threads to get it working again
it's a 10 footer but not bad for tractor paint. Gonna give it a cut and polish and be done with it. Mostly just want a surface smooth enough that the decals will stick lol
Looks good from here Gixx!
In reply to TurboFource :
Thanks! Honestly, after putting in a lot of work to get it ready for sale, I'm leaning towards keeping it. Won't be able to afford a ton of race weekends for the next couple years but could maybe get 2-3 in a year
the FIA rated rain lights the SCCA requires now are pretty bright. Too bad they cost $200
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