What's wrong with a hell-coil ? It's the perfect solution to your stripped hole.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :
I've had two or three bad experiences, and I really don't want to have to screw with this engine
I don't know what other option you have for the stripped hole unless you drill it oversize and put a larger bolt in there. Not the path I'd choose myself. Personally I've had all positive experience with heli-coils.
Mr_Asa said:Crap. I just remembered one of the threaded holes for the water pump is stripped.
Thoughts? I hate traditional heli-coils.
Keensert?
In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :
Some flavor of helicoil's older brother, like a threadsert? Not sure. I'm probably overthinking it again.
In reply to matthewmcl :
I need to make a list of all the various types of thread inserts. I can never remember them all. I know I forgot keensert
I am not the biggest fan of helicoils where the back side is a wet cavity. Keensert andTimesert are solid and much less prone to leaking or pulling out with repeated use. I have resorted to making my own out of an oversized bolt that I center drill on the lathe and tap out to the original thread size. Thus making my own solid insert. With your location in the Tampa Bay Area your should be able to find a keensert type product without having to resort to my backwoods roll your own solution. (basically I have to drive 2 hours to have that type of selection of suppliers).
Today's the day.
Cold day for an engine swap. Was 57°F!
C
Makin these gents earn their liquid lunches
Now, let's recap this show.
Engine Swap Get-Together Thread
Engine Rebuild Question Thread
We got the engine in-ish the first weekend. Pulled the old engine, swapped the good head, shoved it into the truck. The first day the engine and transmission were obstinate, part of that was the tailhousing mounting holes were stripped and we had to get everything arranged like fifteen dadgum times before it took. Got two bolts in the bellhousing to hold it, called it a weekend.
Next weekend I showed up and Stampie surprised John and I both by showing up to help out again. He's a good dude. We got the bellhousing fully tied in, got the tailhousing partially tied in, it will need to be replaced, that's a problem for future-me.
The third weekend I went over Saturday, finished buttoning everything up, got the intake in, got the radiator in, went to crank aaaaand nothing. Screwed around, played with timing, almost set John on fire, and we had no chugga chugga. Got on here, asked for some help, got some direction but we had crank, we had spark, we had fuel, we just didn't have chooch. I told John I was concerned that the valves weren't adjusted properly cause... had fuel, had spark, what else could cause it to not have fire? No compression.
This weekend I showed up and Stampie was already there, he and John had checked and yup, no compression. So we pulled the upper intake and the valve cover (which had way too much RTV on it, cause berkeley leaks, all my homies hate leaks) and adjusted the valves on #1. Checked compression again and had it, adjust the rest of the valves, call around till we find a valve cover, drove off and got another valve cover gasket and more RTV (cause berkeley leaks, all my homies hate leaks,) put everything back together and went and got philly cheese steaks while the RTV cured. Came back and put it the rest of the way together and had happy noises.
Before I went off on test drives, I was very concerned that we didn't get the torque converter re-seated and engaging the pump properly. So I loosened the cooler line, cranked it while John kept an eye on it. He yelled at me real damn quick to kill the engine. We definitely had the transmission pump doing its thing
Somewhere along the way, the GRM Parts Fairie showed up and delivered a bunch of awesome stuff.
Those headers sure look pretty damn nice.
Be a shame if something.... happened to them
(all mocked up, but still, the truck is done now. It will happen soon.)
Hate to admit it but I enjoyed helping to get a Ford back on the road again. It was fun hanging out with all the guys.
So I'm not a complete madman. I have no real clue how I want to arrange the exhaust, so I definitely will not be cutting up the nice headers.
Yet.
So let's cut on the regular truck headers and see what happens.
As a refresher, I cut the heads like
OO|OO and O|OO|O, so let's see what a normal exhaust manifold looks like when I cut it up. Unfortunately I don't have a normal exhaust manifold, I have a set that were highly modified to support a turbo. They look like this.
Highly. Modified.
So let's get hackin and whackin and smackin, choppin that manifold.
Immediate realization is cutting the stockers like I cut the heads won't 100% work. First one of these isnt going in my truck, but eventually it will get one and a rear-exit will not work.
So let's cut up the other one. Kinda. There's a lot of additional meat on here.
Lets just cut all that off and mount the full thing on.
That kind of works. I need to clean up a lot, but it helps I think. Gives a mid-rear exit that should be behind the motor mount.
Plan A is here, let's get to work on it.
As a sidenote, I'll be consolidating my LS4.9 threads in here, at least till I find a Challenge vehicle for one
Ok, so the above doesn't work, obviously. I don't really have precision level hackery that will let me cut up the manifold six different ways to see what's going on, but I do have "precision level" photoshop.
So, here are the base images.
And here's roughly what I came up with. Unless someone has a better idea, I'll start cutting later this week.
Here the outlet will be between the 4&5 cylinders, roughly one turbo length behind the motor mount.
In reply to Stampie :
Probably not at this juncture. I would need to cut the runners off and likely massage the placement of them anyways. Also have slight concerns about flow rate with a BMW, not sure how well those are founded, though.
You get me measurements and I'll check, though. Might be easier to slap an LS manifold against the BMW manifold and take a pic of how the tubes line up?
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Naw I was thinking more of cut the LS headers into two banks of three cylinders. Like this.
Ahh, gotcha. Unfortunately, no. Remember how I cut these up? Most people doing this just lop off the end cylinder and metal glue them together. I had to be difficult.
Where I made the cuts, combined with how different the spacing is means that when I bolt that first exhaust manifold that I cut in half sequentially, I get this.
So if I had four of them, I should be able to cut them up and align them just right? But that's damn silly.
Hrm?
Hrm.
HRM!
Gonna get a new radiator cap. See what that does.
Also, I checked the fluids halfway home. Its been such a long time that I've had it running that I'm not sure if this is normal, but I'm hearing a ticking noise. Worried that its valvetrain.
Its easier to hear in person, but this video's audio makes it sound like its over by the exhaust? I'll tighten the pipes that go to the manifolds and see what that does. If it doesn't go away I'll pull the upper intake again and poke at the valve train. Again.
When last we left our hero he was figuring out how to do the thermostat housing.
Lets rejoin him and see what he has discovered!
Marking off the placement so we can drill baby, drill!
... taking an awful long time to get through this
Oh. I guess that explains it. The outer wall of the coolant passage is right there. Lets get to work cleaning some of that up, then
I killed this piece of E36 M3. Got hot enough at the base that the outer cable melted the berkeley off. Whole damned thing just pulled out of the housing. 0/10, would not recommend.
Anyways, finished up with a couple different tools. I don't hate it, but I don't love it. Not sure if I'm worried about the coolant flow through it or not. I'll get the glue gun out and weld up that top right section where I went through the wall, maybe reinforce some of the other areas.
Then I'll tack this in a couple places and see if it needs adjustment.
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