Pete. (l33t FS) said:
looks dangerous. In for video!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
So the Plan was to bore through the bulkheads in the rockers and run the coolant tubes through.
Started at the back...
Hmm, the holes don't really line up.
Moving along, going to the front.
No hole to even start with.
Well, crap.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:2018 Impreza.
Note the ball joint pivot is massively lower. This is good if you had to mount your subframe too low so the engine accessories clear the hood.
Will the Neon wheels clear?
Yes. Barely. The tie rod is a very close fit, not sure what may happen at full lock. The rotor does not fit because it is too shallow. But this arrangement would allow me to build a stronger control arm. Yes, I know I spent a month of weekends building these.
It looks like I should be able to get rotors for a base '18 Impreza and machine the outside diameter down to 266mm. Hat diameter is the same. Not sure what these knuckles will do to track width, though: do the hub faces sit in or did Subaru move the caliper out?
Regardless, it's an option. Moving forward...
Similarities: The strut mounts the same and has the same height to the axle centerline.
Strut mount to hub face correlation is the same.
Axle splines and thickness of bearing (depth of axle mounting) are the same.
So, if the wheel is in the same place, the strut and the outer CV are in the same place.
On to the differences...
(and the browser updated while I was posting this and I lost all the pics and text... have to upload them againand write it up again... this makes me mad)
GD is 95mm from hub face to ball joint center.
G...whatever it is, is only 75mm. Clearly Subaru shortened the hat and changed the design to move the ball joint further outboard.
The center to the middle mounting stud is 65mm.
95mm from the ball joint hole to the hub face, the new setup is 140mm from center mounting stud to hub face, so I need to locate that stud 45mm inboard from the ball joint hole in the arms I made.
A little cardboard action gets us here.
And this will be spliced in to some .160" tube, and a Johnny Joint:
Need to locate a 3/4-16 tap to tap the tube deep enough to thread in all the way. I COULD just cut the last half inch of threads off of the joint, but I'd really like to avoid removing thread depth.
2018 Imprezas came with brake rotors no smaller than 276mm. We need 260mm rotors with 2018 depth hats.
Cut 2018 rotor on brake lathe until down to the fins, at which point the lathe got very unhappy. A couple minutes of cutoff disk in the angle grinder...
Bolt up to the 2018 knuckle and 1996 caliper...
Wheel fits beautifully.
Also, these high misalignment axles have a ton of articulation!
Tedious stuff.
But, these chunks of 3/8 thick A36 are cut to size, chamfered, etc.
I had a thought to measure the new axles vs the old ones. They have the same extended length. I checked the axle in the car on the right side. It's fully extended.
Hmm.
I made the arms the same length ball joint to front bushing as the WRX arms... but the original arrangement had the ball joint behind the bushing, this is in line or slightly forward. This makes the ball joints further out... even before figuring that the axle-ball joint-bushing triangle will have a longer hypoteneuse because the ball joint is so much further forward relative to the subframe and transmission.
Need to have some think. I think this will involve some mockup and plunge assessment.
In reply to Patrick :
I had been entertaining a potato fairy for the last month. We went to the RXNC together, which is a writeup I also need to do. She didn't kill me after riding in the RX-7 for 1600 miles, which is nice.
We are holding each other to a promise. She will finish the book she is writing, and Colin will be in Alabama this time next year.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:2018 Imprezas came with brake rotors no smaller than 276mm. We need 260mm rotors with 2018 depth hats.
Cut 2018 rotor on brake lathe until down to the fins, at which point the lathe got very unhappy. A couple minutes of cutoff disk in the angle grinder...
Mounting the angle grinder to the carriage of the lathe is also a favorite for meatball surgery
I used the practically industry standard AMMCO lathe (i was using an old one when I started my career, in 1996!) to cut the rotors down to the vanes. There's no real way to mount any kind of stuff to the lathe's tool post except for the disc fixture or the drum fixture.
BTW - this is a photo op. That rotor is scrap. By the time you machine away the rust it will be too thin. And the process of machining the rust will destroy a set of bits. Just not worth the hassle of even trying.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Patrick :
I had been entertaining a potato fairy for the last month. We went to the RXNC together, which is a writeup I also need to do. She didn't kill me after riding in the RX-7 for 1600 miles, which is nice.
We are holding each other to a promise. She will finish the book she is writing, and Colin will be in Alabama this time next year.
You realize now we HAVE to finish our stalled projects. Saying it makes it real
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