It followed me home, so I get to keep it, right?

Unexpectedly found the clutch master cylinder completely dry last weekend.

Showed Luca how to bleed a clutch, but that was pretty much a band-aid on a sucking chest wound, since the master had sprung a leak out the pedal-side.  Fortunately, there is an entire set of spare clutch hydraulics in the spares bin (not bad ones either, a sachs MC and an Aisin SC).  After explaining that you should always replace clutch hydraulics in pairs, we got to work.

The slave was actually pretty easy - just removed the cold air duct around the battery and it was 2x 12mm bolts, and 2x 12mm flare nuts.

The master is a solid gold bitch though.  I think the designers thought through the RHD variant, but kinda punted on the LHD, as the hardline runs up to a banjo bolt (from below, of course, so that you can batter your boogerhooks real good and then cross thread it and dink up the tube nut), but the head of the banjo bolt interferes with the strut tower, so it's impossible to put the MC in place on the mounting studs with the banjo fitting installed.

IDK how we're going to fix this one, but I'm thinking that it'll involve a steel braided flex line with a banjo fitting, my flaring tool, and moving the tube nut somewhere my fat-ass fingers can fit.

It's so awesome to see your kiddo so excited and happy to be part of the process. The color match is stunning by the way, great job!

Between the m12x1 die and a pair of vise grips, I got it in.  The clutch still feels like hot garbage at the top of the stroke, but it does move gears and doesn't leak dry.

I'll give it a go with a pressure bleeder, see if I can't make it better.

In reply to Jehannum :

These things are not easy to bleed. Last time I opened the clutch hydraulics I had to fast-kick the clutch pedal like a maniac to get the new fluid flowing at all. Let us know how the pressure bleeder works out.

I use a motiv pressure bleeder on my mr2s. It makes bleeding the clutch so much easier.