In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :
Awesome, thanks!
In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :
Awesome, thanks!
Something that will be problematic is the intake height. Anyone have any solutions for a lower intake height? Not like I can afford an aftermarket intake but thought I would see what is out there.
I love this! Thinking out side the box , but inside the boxed rockers!
This is the best possible life for that poor little neglected Toyota.
Can't wait to see more updates.
Radiator and AC pulled. I managed to get the AC parts out intact so I can take them to an HVAC shop for recovery. The radiator is likely going to have to get ready mounted.
I'm embarrassed to admit that it took me several minutes to translate "BDT" to "Bad Decisions Triangle".
This looks awesome, carry on!
Can you get a picture with the weight on the front suspension showing how much above the top of the tires the engine sits? and Idealy how far in front of and behind the axle centerline it is. Also, how much can you reasonably lower the front of these before stuff gets all wacked out? Hood clearance is deffinately going to be a limiting factor, but if the back of the engine stays out of the windshield hood bumps, cowl hoods, or shaker scoops become possible.
Looking online it appears the engine is 4-5" above the wheels, which would be "per the infalible deffinately reliable stolen OBJ file Blender converted to STL file then imported to SketchUp Starlet model" about a 3" hood bump which seems.. manageable.
Well, the top of the alternator is currently 8.5" above the tire. However, the suspension is at max height.
In reply to nocones :
Also, the axle center line front / rear is 11" and 13". The rear of the engine is the lowest point on the top of the engine so the windshield could work.
Edit: measured the Starlet axle centerline to windshield and it is 16" so that shouldn't be an issue, hopefully. My feet may not have a place to live but at least I have a windshield!
Leaving the wheelbase a little long isn't the worst thing that could happen.
In reply to Wally (Forum Supporter) :
Neat but I would have to remount the engine which at the moment isn't something that I am willing to do. Once the body is trimmed to the frame, I may change my mind though.
Made some progress around work today. More cooler lines and the main engine bay harness pulled out. Finished pulling the transmission. Down pipe with cats pulled out, not nearly as bad as I was worried. Only one nut need some heat and then it came right off.
I wonder if I can/should keep the ABS system. I don't really plan on keeping the brake booster.
ABS is usually tied into traction control. Does this thing have traction control?
As for the intake being tall, you could always make your own with some flanges and some tubes and such. I can even point you towards a primer on how to do it properly!
I have spent a fair amount of time staring at the frame and thinking about how and where to start cutting.
This seems a likely place depending on if this section interferes with having a usable pedal area. It might not and then all the cutting will take place in the nice straight section of the frame. Planning on rolling the Starlet into the shop this weekend and start trimming the firewall and floor out fit test fitting. More to come!
More progress! Didn't get to the cutting yet but got a lot of heavy lifting done that I couldn't have done alone. Thanks Psteav and Clem.
The right rear drum decided to lock up at some point so pulling it up the garage was a chore.
Rolled into the garage at put up in the air to start pulling things off.
I think that the proportions might actually work.
Gonna need to do some stuff with the hood though.
Like leave it off this year!
Progress looks good.
singleslammer said:
Gonna need to do some stuff with the hood though.
But for real, though, it looks like the cam covers are below the hoodline, so you've just got to worry about intake/fuel rails/alternator and water neck poking out?
I know you don't want to remount the engine...but that might be the easiest solution to buy a fair amount of space. Can you drop the whole thing, or do you get into crossmember/rack/concrete clearance issues real quick?
psteav (Forum Supporter) said:singleslammer said:
Gonna need to do some stuff with the hood though.
.... he is gonna have a lot of rocker material left over once he cuts them off.
In reply to psteav (Forum Supporter) :
There is maybe 3/4" between the pan and the crossmember so no dice. I have a potential plan for that but I think Nocones is right that this is a detail that isn't important for now.
Mr_Asa said:.... he is gonna have a lot of rocker material left over once he cuts them off.
Uhhh....in an ideal world, yes, he would. I'm not sure there's enough good metal in them to weld together, though.
The cutting has begun. A $250 plasma from Amazon makes this as straight forward as one can expect. It even runs on 120v.
I'm going to recomend something super sketch for you do to make this work better.
Remove the rear windows.
Pass 2-2x4's through with a 4x4 leg.
In front strap a 2x4 to the strut tower.
Put a 2x4 across from your front to rear.
Now put your maxjax on this.
It looks like you would be able to lift the car just high enough but still be able to set it down all the way into the chassis.
You could add height as necessary to make sure you can lift from just above the intake and still lower to the ground. 
*Incredibly accurate detailed basically "Engineered Plans" level drawing of idea.
Alternatively you could run straps through the rear windows across the car on top of the roof, but using the sills wihtout the windows in would be easiest.
**I would not recomend putting items you don't wish to allow crushed under this aparatus when in the air.
That could work (plan A) if they lift will go that high. The how to get crumbling body off lift has been a point of debate.
I solved this problem on FDat by just lifting with the fenders (like lift pads where the top of the wheel goes). When the body is light it wasn't denting anything.
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