that moment when you realize its time to replace the missing windows
staying busy despite the freezing temps last couple days. reworked the exhaust flaps and did some wiring fixes, got all my lights working. also found a good deal on a bosch tachometer so I ordered that along with a new oil pressure sending unit. should have all my gauges working once those arrive.
today I finished up on the windshield wiper. someone literally ripped it off at some point so I had to run a die over what was left of the spline shaft, then pinch the wiper arm between a couple jzc lock washers as opposed to splines. but it seems to be holding. had to replace the switch and all the wiring, took the motor apart to get it spinning again but it works great now. blade is a bosch 10" and the arm is from a vw super beetle
it has 2 vents that let warm engine bay air into the cab. one on the firewall and one on the dash under the windshield for defrosting. i had thought about heater boxes but i believe the differential linkage would get in the way. kristi employees actually torched a clearance hole in the lower vw cylinder tin for the linkage. after driving it I think the engine produces a sufficient amount of heat to keep passengers warm. we will see once take it out on a bitter cold day.
got a new tachometer installed today. works great. need to find a working oil pressure gauge and i will be satisfied with the instruments.
if you had to choose between oil temp and cylinder head temp on an air cooled, what would you choose?
Definitely oil temp, the two are pretty closely correlated and it's easier to get a reading on the oil temp. Use the relief plug sender if you have a dual relief case, I would guess the usually frowned upon oil drain plug location would also work for you since you don't have 55mph winds on the bottom of the case like you do in a car.
BrokenYugo wrote: Definitely oil temp, the two are pretty closely correlated and it's easier to get a reading on the oil temp. Use the relief plug sender if you have a dual relief case, I would guess the usually frowned upon oil drain plug location would also work for you since you don't have 55mph winds on the bottom of the case like you do in a car.
I was thinking about using a tee fitting off of the oil pressure location. the drain plug area could work if I drill & tap the elbow fitting for the drain hose. . . but I dont think this is a dual relief case, bieng a '63 type 122 industrial engine. its by far the oldest aircooled vw engine I have touched.
Have you been getting it out into any of this massive snowfall we've been getting, or is it still relatively mild out on the western slope?
The oil pressure port won't give a good temp reading, I would think a T on the drain plug would read low too. Thermocouple probe down the dipstick hole? That can be done cheap (under $30) with ebay industrial stuff if you're cool with a square panel meter.
for example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-K-Type-Thermocouple-Control-Temperature-Controller-0-1100C-Sensor-Probe-/321871581793?hash=item4af10a9261:m:mlMH6Hs2cPR2G5FoWWsMe-Q
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-0-999-C-0-56-K-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Temp-Temperature-Panel-Meter-/182139512610?var=&hash=item2a685c6722:m:mkHhIXQ6VWmJDEXaY18B2pA
sobe_death wrote: Have you been getting it out into any of this massive snowfall we've been getting, or is it still relatively mild out on the western slope?
we have seen a bit of snow but it melts fast down here. the mesa has alot along with the rest of the mountains, i have just been grinding away at home sorting out all the little issues. today I got the charging system charging. that was the main thing keeping me off the snow. still need an oil pressure gauge. might throw an idiot light on for now.
another aircooled question: since i dont have the charging indicator light like a type 1 speedometer, where is the best place to wire the "61" terminal of the voltage regulator? right now im running it to a light bulb. it works like the factory indicator light only opposite, light goes out when its not charging over 12v. did this because I had no other ideas. if you all know a better way without a vw speedo let me know.
BrokenYugo wrote: The oil pressure port won't give a good temp reading, I would think a T on the drain plug would read low too. Thermocouple probe down the dipstick hole? That can be done cheap (under $30) with ebay industrial stuff if you're cool with a square panel meter. for example http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-K-Type-Thermocouple-Control-Temperature-Controller-0-1100C-Sensor-Probe-/321871581793?hash=item4af10a9261:m:mlMH6Hs2cPR2G5FoWWsMe-Q http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-0-999-C-0-56-K-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Temp-Temperature-Panel-Meter-/182139512610?var=&hash=item2a685c6722:m:mkHhIXQ6VWmJDEXaY18B2pA
those are a great deal! my friend ran a similar digital display for his EGT probe in his audi. but those are killer prices. so do you just remove the dipstick for the probe then?
That's the idea, modify the probe to seat and seal in the tube like the stock stick (hacking up a spare would probably be easiest without a lathe), measure and scratch a full mark on it with a file if you're feeling fancy. Make sure you get a long enough probe, 150mm is probably long enough if memory serves correctly but I don't have one to measure, ebay search term I used was "thermocouple probe".
This guy did something similar. http://www.doe.carleton.ca/~ngt/vw/temp_gauge.html
that temp probe is cool. just might do that before long since its so affordable.
today was productive.
made a battery hold down
fixed some nasty wiring and got the rear flasher working on a new switch
then used some drop to make a hidden compartment for the toolbox and some spares
a pair of snowshoes will also fit under the rear facing seat, making good use of the space.
Maybe it's just the perspective, but the angle iron on that battery mount looks awfully close to being able to short the two terminals...
In reply to ssswitch:
planning on it just havent decided where yet.
In reply to codrus:
its got over an inch gap but that is a concern with the way this machine shakes . . I was considering a length of heater hose over the angle iron.
I'm not sure that it's best practice to hold a battery down by the vent caps. Any over the top style mound I've seen snakes through the gap between them.
BrokenYugo wrote: I'm not sure that it's best practice to hold a battery down by the vent caps. Any over the top style mound I've seen snakes through the gap between them.
I wondered about the cap thing. honestly I may not run that battery for that reason. I like (and usually try to buy) the ones with a groove on top
2K4Kcsq wrote: if you had to choose between oil temp and cylinder head temp on an air cooled, what would you choose?
Oil temp. Does it have an adjustable mixture from the driver's seat like an airplane to deal with changes in altitude? If so, then EGT or CHT might be worthwhile. I've flown a number of airplanes without EGT gauges however, you can set the mixture by sound and feel of the engine.
In reply to Petrolburner:
no on the fly mixture adjustment, just a solex 28 that I still need to jet properly. it will spend most of its time between 9,000-12,000 ft. I run an EGT gauge on my turbo audi, its been very helpful. given the exhaust configuration on the kristi I wonder if 2 probes would be best.
all this talk makes me want to megasquirt this thing even more
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