Flush the transmission cooler before connecting the lines to the new transmission.
Flush the transmission cooler before connecting the lines to the new transmission.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
That's the torque converter from the original trans, the new transmission torque converter is already in place but I'll check what you said anyway. Assume the crank sensor is right on top of the trans with a 10mm bolt? If so I removed that when I dropped the transmission because I thought it was holding the bellhousing.
Well the new (used) transmission slid right up into place without issue, I just finished the bell housing and torque converter bolts, and I'm about to put the axles back in. What's the consensus on whether to grease the axle splines on the transmission end? Does that cause issues?
In reply to APEowner :
Can I trust the off the shelf can of solvent flush method for this? I'd also like to flush the replacement transmission but not sure as to the best practice to do so. I might just drop the pan which would probably drain at least 80% or so of the residual fluid.
Well, it's back together. The new transmission has some erratic shifting issues but that might be due to needing a reflash after replacement, I read somewhere that said reflash is necessary whenever the original transmission is replaced. I also have a check engine light, likely from a vacuum leak if I were to guess, I need to go over the airbox and plumbing and check that everything is hooked up.
The subframe was kind of a bear to get into place by myself, mostly because of the steering rack. I bolted up the rack first, then aligned the subframe to its mounts, then fought to get the control arms bolted up to the spindles. Everything else went together without much issue. Fingers crossed that the new transmission just needs some programming and I don't have to pull everything apart again. My friend has a Volvo-specific scanner, an Autel mk808. I don't know if that will do the reflash but I'm going to try and find out. Semi-celebratory out of the garage under its own power photo:
So far it seems like a cautionary win. Be sure to update
In reply to jfryjfry :
Very cautionary. The reflash I read up on refers to an update to the transmission control module, I'm going to check with the dealership today and see if that sounds familiar to them and what it might cost. Gonna try and remain optimistic that it's nothing more involved..
I'd swap the TCM with your old one first. Assuming it is mounted to the trans like I think it is.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I think it's right next to the ECM under a plastic cover on the timing belt side of the engine bay. I don't really understand why it would need reprogramming but that's what I read on the Volvo forums, as well as a recommendation to replace the B4 servo cover, whatever that is..
Ah ok. If it is a separate control module attached to the chassis, then yes it will need to have all of its adaptations erased. I do not think you need to do a reflash to do this.
The TCM may, however, be mounted directly to the trans, hanging out around the selector shaft.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Pete, here's a photo of the top of the transmission with the selector shaft visible, that white connector links to the big harness on the driver side of the car, I don't think that's the TCM but you'd know better than I would:
Okay, you do have the other type. The trans mounted TCM looks like a really big range position sensor.
Sounds like you need to clear the adaptives and drive it to learn the new adaptives.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I just drove it again gently and it feels better than yesterday other than the 2-3 shift being a bit abrupt. Also I drained the fluid out of the replacement trans and about 3.5-4 quarts drained. I added just under 4 quarts but if I'm checking correctly (engine warmed up and running) it's not showing on the dipstick, is it safe to add more? Do you know if the Autel can clear the adaptives? Awfully nice having an experienced Volvo wrench on this forum !
Oh, the only Volvo transmissions I have done were mine, and a manual trans in a non turbo S60 after the slave cylinder failed and the driver broke the shift forks trying to drive clutchless without knowing how to drive clutchless. I own a Volvo because generally one does not have to work on them.
But parts is parts.
Hell yes if nothing is on the stick, add more.
Not sure about the Autel, but since it is just another Launch x.431 clone then it should be able to.
So today I got it up to temp and got the fluid level where it needs to be. It's still abrupt on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, though interestingly if I press the winter mode button those shifts smooth out dramatically. I was mistaken on the scanner, it's and Autophix ES610 and I don't think it has any capability to reset the TCM, it seems to just read and erase codes. I might have to find a Volvo specialist who has the software to get this thing ironed out..
Update: I ran down and swapped the Autophix for the Autel, and I got to transmission adaptions but then got an error message that it's not supported on this vehicle. If I go in manually it shows Volvos 2016 and up under transmission adaptations.
So today I followed the instructions toward the end of this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qiGNT42ux_E
After that, the shifting got immensely better. 2nd to 3rd is nice and smooth, 1st to second is a bit firm still but only under very very gentle acceleration, a bit more throttle and it shifts smoothly. I'm thinking it needs some more time to adapt. I haven't driven any real distance since the car doesn't have tags, but it rides so nicely and the seats are so good I kinda wish I was keeping it as a winter daily. This weekend I'll bolt check the subframe and suspension components and change the oil.
Highly recommend the procedure in the video from my last post, the day after I did this the car started shifting nice and smooth in all gears. What a lovely car to drive, I still can't get over how nice the seats are, though leg room in the back seat is laughable. I have a driver side CV shaft on order as the original lasted long enough to get the car back together before dumping its grease all over my floor. I'm also going to do an oil change and windshield wipers tonight, then it'll be ready for someone to enjoy.
So this car originally was supposed to be a first car for my gf's little sister who just started driving, but in the interim while sourcing a transmission for it, my brother in law got ahold of me about buying his boss's non running Audi A4 for "scrap price." So I went up to Pittsburgh and paid $450 for the Audi, took it home and got it running in about 15 min via a new battery and fresh gas, and her sister decided she wanted that car instead of the Volvo.
No problem there, I'll just add up what I have in the Volvo and try to figure out what a fair price is to sell it outright.. Then my truck started developing a nasty wheel bearing noise, but not displaying the other symptoms of a bad wheel bearing, and the driver window on my FC got stuck a few inches from the top.
Wednesday of this week I was set to drive 600 mi to meet my family at the beach, and with the truck being iffy I looked at the cost of renting a car vs the cost of registering and insuring the Volvo for a couple of months while I get the truck sorted, which brings us here:
Nothing like a 10 hr drive to test your replacement parts! Temps were in the low 90s when I left Wednesday afternoon, but the trip computer is showing a 32 mpg average for the trip, and the a/c had no issue keeping up with the direct sunlight. It's been so long since I've driven something other than a truck or a rotary for any distance that I'm just chuffed with how easy this thing was on fuel.
So I guess the new plan is to daily it at least for the next month or so till the Montero is sold, as I definitely do not want to field marketplace questions for two vehicles at once. Other than the axles being a bit of a fight to install, this thing wasn't miserable to work on, and if you're not looking for exciting acceleration, it's a fine highway cruiser. This is my first experience with any Volvo product but I think I've become a fan.
It is amazing how they can consistently destroy CAFE ratings in the real world.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I think the EPA rating of found online was 28 mpg highway, so when the trip computer read 32-33 I thought it was being optimistic, but it was spot on to my own math when I filled up again so yea pretty impressive.
Ut oh. Just drove to lunch and the Check engine and service transmission light came on after a few weird shifts, I checked the fluid level while the engine is running and it's ok, but this feels similar to what the old transmission did though way less violent. Going to let it cool then try the process to reset the adaptations, but this is not ideal. Very strange that it hasn't had any issues in the last ~ 1400 mi but then suddenly it's acting up..
Ugh, hoping it's something simple to resolve the codes. Do you have a scanner that can read the individual codes?
In reply to dj06482 (Forum Supporter) :
I borrowed a scanner, the only TCM code is 002F lockup function. So maybe a bad electrical connection somewhere or a solenoid issue more likely than bad hardware? I do have one transmission connector that has broken plastic on one side which made connecting it difficult, but I checked and it doesn't seem to have come loose. So right now I'm not sure what else to look into..
Today I went over the harness again, checked for any loose grounds, cleaned some connectors, just tried to find anything obviously wrong. If I start the car and put it in drive it'll work normally for a second or two, then no matter which gear I choose it acts like it's in neutral. I think if it's a solenoid problem I have to drop the pan, but I don't know how deep into it I should get before just taking the transmission back while it's under warranty. I at least might drain the fluid and have a look at what condition it's in before pulling the transmission out again.
You'll need to log in to post.
