Last of the VTEC Screamers - 2010 Civic Si daily funmobile

Tony Sestito said:

High RPM pulls in it were such a blast! 

right?  can't get enough.  every on-ramp is its own little event.

Carl Heideman said:

I've got a 2008 Si in the same blue.  I bought it three years ago from a very compulsive Honda dealer tech who put a lot of miles on it (190K) but took beyond excellent care of it.  It looked like it had 30K miles on it.   He pampered it and even stored it in the winter (I'm in Michigan).  I got it cheap because of the miles and I'm at 220K now and I've loved every mile.  It's mainly my winter car (I feel a little guilty about that, but him storing it will give me a lot more winters!) and I run it on steelies and Blizzaks until the snow melts.  I'm amazed how fast, fun, reliable, and just plain easy this car is.   And it revs to 8500RPM.   How many cars can do all that?

Carl

that's awesome to hear.  others who drive these in the snow have said they're tanks.  if you get any wheelspin just cover the brake a bit and it'll help the torsen lock up, and away you go as long as you have enough clearance.

220k is some healthy mileage, but hey if it looks good and drives right, who cares?  i was hell-bent on getting a low mile car, but mine showed up with ~88k at the time i bought it and looked and drove beautifully.  these cars seem to really shrug off the abuse despite the propensity to want to be driven hard all the time.

had to give it some lovin last weekend, and frankly the pollen was looking so bad i couldn't take it anymore.

still needs a full strip and base layer sealant, or better yet an aggressive correction and polishing but this was better than nothing.

ONR sprayed on between full wash and quick detailer dilution level
Duragloss 951 Aquawax (love this stuff)
Chemical Guys TVD tire and trim gel
Einszett Cockpit interior dressing
Griot's Garage Interior Cleaner 

results:

2 things:

• 1, to whoever owned this before me, how the hell do you NOT FEEL your wheels being ground to dust to get a curb rash on a wheel this hard and
• 2, this rear caliper below was replaced right before i bought the car and after 6 months now it looks like the hull of a shipwreck.  probably a cheapy core replacement with a lack of anti corrosion treating/coating.  do i wire-wheel this thing clean again and hit it with caliper paint or just buy a new, more expensive loaded caliper with a proper corrosion coating on it?  brakes work fine, its just this one caliper looks horrific

lastly, you'll notice in pictures that my rear passenger door doesn't have a VTEC decal while the driver's side does.  in my haste when i bought it i completely overlooked that.  upon closer inspection i'm sure that door was hit or damaged enough that they had to respray that part of the car (poorly).  there's some ugly overspray in the doorjamb.  its a shame, but the car seems straight and the paint isn't in perfect shape to start with, so i'm just going to replace the decal and get on with it.

That's a good looking car!

I vote paint the caliper. 

In reply to ScottyB :

Car looks fantastic! Sorry for slight hijack, but what kind of flooring do you have in the garage?

Run_Away said:

That's a good looking car!

I vote paint the caliper. 

Thanks man!  I'm thinking that too, I just hope I can knock the rust off thoroughly enough that the paint will adhere well.

If you use something like POR15 the rust will probably help the paint stick better.

ManhattanM (fka NY535iManual) said:

In reply to ScottyB :

Car looks fantastic! Sorry for slight hijack, but what kind of flooring do you have in the garage?

Thanks - it's an epoxy coating.  Rocksolid Polycuramine Garage Coat in grey with a"salt and pepper" fleck and some stuff called "shark grip" thrown in the clearcoat to give some traction when it's wet.   Came out ok but the concrete in my garage is pretty low quality and has come up in a few spots despite taking a lot of care with the prep.  It's great though, I think it's super functional compared to something like a plastic tile like racedeck, which I have to admit looks awesome too. 

oil drained out!  new oil poured in!  EXCITEMENT!  MADNESS!  oil nerd warning below.

so yeah, not much to report other than just driving it an enjoying it over the past months.  i ran the onboard "maintenance minder" down to an oil life of 0% and then another 500 miles beyond, and at that point decided to change out my run of Mobil1 0W-40 for a fresh fill of Pennzoil Euro 0W-40 that was on a great sale at wally world.  figured it was a great time to do an oil analysis on the engine and find out how healthy it is with it sitting at about 94k miles.  the maintenance minder is very conservative and geared for use of standard, not synthetic, oil so i felt that running it all the way down was fine, and a good place to start a baseline.  my goal here is to find a sweet spot for how far out i can run a synthetic oil change while also keeping the engine in great shape for being able to wail on it without a second thought.

sent the oil in to Blackstone and the results came back great.

minimal trace elements in the oil (particularly lead/copper/chromium which is your bearings and rings), low silicon so the OEM air filter is working well, low insolubles so the Honda A01 oil filter is doing its job.  the cSt viscosity shows that the 0W-40 dipped into 30 weight range by 6600 miles which is right where i wanted it.  i take care to drive the car gently until its fully warm, but otherwise it sees normal shifts in the 4-5k RPM range and sees the 8,200 RPM redline multiple times a trip, as it should. being a daily driver, so it sees all the rigors of traffic, long interstate trips, extended idling with the A/C cranked up, and lots of engine shutdowns/cranks when running errands.  given this performance i'm sticking with 0W-40 and Honda filters, and will run the next oil change out to 9-10k miles.

also, in case anyone asks, the K20 is spec'd in the US for 5W-30, but given my driving habits, hot as balls climate down here in GA, and feedback from other guys that run these cars hard, made me feel i wanted something a notch above a 30 weight.  Mobil's OW-40 is a great oil and notorious for basically being a really beefy 30 weight by the time you put a few miles on it, and then holding that viscosity.  with the added thickness, cheap price and shear-stability of this oil i thought it would be the right call. 

to further back this up, Honda's higher performance Japanese-market Type-R variant of this chassis, the "FD2", calls for a 5W-40 weight in the factory service manual. Given that the engine in that car is essentially identical internally to mine, aside from a slightly hotter cam and the deletion of balance shafts in the oil pan, supported my thought that the engine would be happy with a 40 weight oil.

up next: it'll be time to crack the valve cover off and install new OEM Denso Iridium spark plugs along with a valve adjustment for its 100k service.  i'm interested to see how the top end looks.  i've also gotta find some time to replace that ugly, rusty rear caliper with the new factory-coated Nissin unit i got in.

had my face/shins/ribs smashed so many times by the insanely weak doors closing on me on the slightest incline that i had to relent and tear the door panels off to replace the door "checkers" with upgraded 9th gen units.  i hate interior work (i break clips like a champ) but this wasn't the worst thing ever.  

its clear by the condition of the plastic membrane and the messyness of the sealant bead that this door has been opened up before.  the passenger door was untouched.  i wonder if this was for yet another replacement door checker at some earlier time?

before

after

i didn't expect this to make me so happy

so earlier i mentioned that the passenger rear door doesn't have the factory decal, probably because it was hit and needed repainted.  can't believe i missed that when i bought the car, but excitement and tight schedules can do that to you.  

anyway, in my quest to keep the car as factory as possible and because i'm a secret ricer, i nabbed a factory decal to try to get the door back to how Honda intended it.  i've never done this before so i didn't know how badly i'd bork this up but it came out better than i thought.

after an area cleaning with dish soap, i went with windex as a lubricant to help position the decal.  i guess it worked OK because the decal's stuck on there good now.

did some rough measuring with masking tape as some guidepoints, trimmed the excess application sheet, and held my breath.  used a credit card as a squeegee.  the application sheet had started to curl in the heat in my garage, and pull up the decal as a result, so i had to hold down some of the end with masking tape.

i found that the decal took quite a bit of time to "Cure" with the windex under it, so that it wasn't floating on the liquid and started to stick to the paint instead.  the result was that i had to babysit it quite a bit after a few hours and re-squeegee the bubbles out as the windex dried out and the decal came into further contact with the paint.  

its not perfect - there's a few bubbles i had to pop with a careful x-acto blade poke and some of the edges got pulled here or there with the squeegee card.  but overall, from 3 or 4 feet out it looks about right.

here's hoping the new levels of stock-ness make me even less popular with the cool honda kids.

then i took the family for a little drive!

our last big roadtrip of the summer to see extended family, inlaws, and my family before my youngin' goes back to school.  we had a long way to go and a short time to get there.  

hit it with a wash and Duragloss 951 wax coating prior to the drive.  held up nice and should make post-trip cleanup easier.

can you do 1250 miles with a wife, kid, and a dog in a lowered civic?  yeah...worked out great.  set the cruise to 78, A/C to frosty, and put on the tunes.  these cars are pretty big inside so no legroom issues.  even with the "long" 6th gear it was still churning 3500 RPMs at that speed so if i ever go with an aftermarket exhaust i'm going to have to be really critical about not getting something that drones.  the koni shocks/tein springs were comfy on the interstate and only ever got harsh on the worst expansion joints.  i wouldn't want to go any stiffer for this kind of family use.  easy 32mpg average which saved us about ~$100 in gas money vs if we'd taken the xterra.

had a chance to play with my BIL's newly delivered CJ7.  302 powered, 3 speed on the floor, many freedoms, much brap, wow.  i can't emphasize enough how completely alien this is to any modern car experience.  its basically an overpowered tractor with a license plate.  cooks your feet, smells like a boat, EVERYTHING feels like it could kill you and you can't relax for a minute because its constantly wiggling around and trying to wander into a ditch or the other lane.  its incredible to think the Wranglers nowadays are $50k and trace their lineage to this mechanical bull.  top speed is probably 55 and i have absolutely no desire to find out what that feels like.  but its a hell of a motoring experience, my BIL is tickled with it, and on the right day i get why people like Wranglers so much. 

dicking with the carb to figure out a no-start issue.  turns out it was a corroded terminal connector on the battery wire.

wanna hear a story about how bad unloading a car shipment can get?  

OK, the jeep came from Tucson AZ and was driven here by a caveman.  he arrives 2 days early, takes us completely by surprise.  apparently, this colossal muppet proceeds to leave the keys in the column of the jeep on "accessory" for 3 days (there's a little button under the column to let the keys out of the ignition barrel and he didn't know about it) and also lets all the air out of the front tires, and most of the back tires, to lower the jeep because he thinks he's going to hit bridges with it.  

jeep arrives on the top of the carrier and he parks it on the top of a hill, which comes in handy later.  its 90 degrees in the shade.  BIL is super amped, climbs up, cranks the key......jeep's dead, like can't jump it dead.  the 33" tires are flat and now have a contact patch about 2 feet square so the jeep doesn't want to budge.  i'm in flip flops and BIL's in boat shoes because i didn't get the memo we were going to be manhandling a truck off a trailer.  i tell the driver to drop the hydraulics so we can coast it backwards off the carrier.  we get up there to push this thing and its a looong way down.  BIL scrambles into the jeep again, almost falls off the trailer to his death, we are both probably getting malaria now from all the swarms of mosquitos that have targeted our swampy asses.  start dropping the ramp down, BIL can barely keep the jeep straight due to no power brakes and the flat tires don't want to grip the ramp treads, so the front wheels are locking up and taking away his steering.  so the only choice is to let it rip alllll the rest of the way down the ramp, hope we're lined up, and don't use the brakes because if we go too slow it'll stop rolling halfway off the ramp due to the flat tires and we can't use the brakes anyway because then we can't steer.  

so, away it goes, gets about a foot from the bottom and the passenger rear falls off the inside of the ramp and so does the front a second later, but thankfully we had cleared the end of the carrier by then so the tires just fell into empty space.  thank goodness for about 18 inches of ground clearance too, if it was a car we would have ripped the entire side off on the inside gap of the ramp.  so now we have a dead jeep sitting cockeyed in the middle of the main road of his subdivision and we can't push it because of the aforementioned 4 flat 33's.  caveman driver says sign here, imma peace out because F you and gotta be in philly by 5 etc etc.  so what now?  does the jeep even run?  on the phone with the PO, he's confused why it won't run ("i drove it on the truck myself, hey is your driver that squirrely caveman guy? oohhhh....").  we pay him and watch the truck drive off.  neighbors look through drawn blinds.

BIL runs home and gets pancake air compressor tank while i direct traffic around the big white paperweight.  comes back, and its only enough to get all the tires half full.  F it, we're doing this live, we both heave-ho and start it rolling down the hill with no driver.  i run next to it in my stupid flip flops, jump in Indiana Jones style and take the wheel before it rolls through some guy's front yard.  jeep womp-womp-womp-womp's down the road on flat spotted tires and i look in the rearview at my poor forlorned BIL staring at his dead jeep coasting away.  it gets 3/4 of the way to the house and runs out of steam, thankfully by some miracle the rest of the distance is downhill including his driveway.  i insist my BIL get in the seat and take it the last 100ft home.  another heave-ho, i nearly shart my pants, and it trundles to a stop by his garage door.  woof.

epilogue - as suspected, caveman killed the battery.  got a new one, she cranked right up in glorious 5.0 soundtrack but only made one voyage and died again when we tried to start it a second time.  turns out a bad battery wire connector was only making contact with the battery post intermittently.  removed a corroded washer and she was good to go.  many test drives, then many beers.  fit in the garage with about an inch to spare above the hardtop.

here's a story of me being a complete chump with a wrench for your entertainment

-------------

so my Si had its passenger rear caliper replaced right before i bought it due to the OEM one seizing up and dragging.  the coating on this one didn't exactly weather well, and i hate looking at it.  i went to replace it and bleed the brakes "while i was in there" and it went as only things can when i'm left to my devices.

started with this.  gross.  came off fine.

went to put new shiny thing back on.

everything cool so far.  time to pop on the motive power bleeder, but the reservoir adapter doesn't fit.  as with anything you wanna touch in an 8th gen civic engine bay, off comes the cowl.  still not enough room.  off comes the intake.  ok i can finally get in there without breaking my hands.  tighten the adapter down now that i have room, pump the motive up.  go to the back of the car and prepare to bleed the new caliper.

FFSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHH 

i thought someone's irrigation system turned on across the street. nope just my car GETTING POWERWASHED WITH BRAKE FLUID AUUGGH ITS EVERYWHERE HOW IS IT DOING THAT SO FAST SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIiiiiit

the hose, being as old as it was, must have also gotten kinked and created a weak spot.  thus, instant brake fluid fountain sprayer.

panic.  awkwardly stumble over tools, tires, slipping on brake fluid, dive over to the engine bay to try to get the motive depressurized as fast as possible while most of the hood pad, windshield, cowl and fender are getting completely soaked with about a quart of brake fluid.  i had dumped most of a bottle into the motive and it all but drained the entire amount in about 5 seconds.

its everywhere.  i can feel it getting hot as it reacts with my gloves.  all i know is you don't want that stuff on anything painted, and its basically on everything painted.  slam the intake back on, grab the hose, immediately start dousing the car, watch as a river of toxic fluid washes out into the driveway.  grab my citrus all purpose cleaner spray and just bomb the whole front half of the car with it and start scrubbing like mad.  

a half hour passes.  rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat.  everything in a 10 foot radius is soaked.  i think i have things mostly under control now.  i rummage around and find a replacement hose for the motive.  this might work out.

wife comes out to ask if i can take the dog out.  i briefly explain what happened.  "well does your car at least work?"

that's a good question.  decide i'll just gravity bleed it with her stepping on the brakes rather than take chances.  so we go through the motions, get a couple good bubbles out of the bleeder screw and i tighten it back down.  just for extra assurance, i ask her to hit the pedal hard to make sure there aren't any leaks.

SON OF A BITCH

garbage reman'd caliper is pissing fluid out the ebrake seal.  GAAAAAAH.

off comes the new caliper, back goes the old caliper, gotta bleed the brakes AGAIN but screw it i'm using the motive because i'm too embarrassed to call my wife back out.  super cautious about the pressure and i only put in a tiny bit of brake fluid.  its slow because i'm only using about 2psi but it works and in my dehydrated pseudo-consciousness i lack the ability to further care.

climb into the car.  give the brake pedal a couple good stomps.  go back around to the back to see if it leaks.  of course it does, this time at the banjo bolt.  tighten bolt.

again, same thing.  tighten again.  won't seal.  i cannot.  urge to weep like a bitch intensifying.  i stand up, my clothes caked to myself, reeking of hydraulic fluid and BO, and check my watch.  its been 6 hours.  i close the garage door and do not look back.

--------------

epilogue.

i saved the banjo bolt from the original rusty caliper and amazingly also managed to keep the washers in the right order and orientation on the bolt.  i yanked off the current bolt the next day and replaced it with the old one, washers as they were, and it actually worked.  the old washers were thicker so maybe they seal better?  still no leaks today, and hey at least the pedal feel is good after bleeding all 4 wheels all over again because why not at this point.

called the company i bought the new caliper from.  they're allowing me to RMA it even though i bought it in April and normally can only return something within 30 days.  so i've got that going for me.

car got a followup full detail and wax, because i've most definitly stripped any protection off the paint when i bombed it with the degreaser.  paint seems ok. 

i'm OK with a rusty caliper for a while, i think.

TLDR; i turn a caliper swap into a HAZMAT car wash

well, after that debacle was solved, i did a little maintenance while i was waiting for some paint to dry.  currently sitting at 96k miles, plugs aren't due until 105k but close enough.

originals coming out and OEM Densos going back in for another 100k miles

scene of the crime.  getting better at pulling the cowl/lower windshield trim, which is a must due to the cab-forward design.  as others have told me it really does open up the whole back of the bay nicely.  just a PITA.

here's the originals after about 8 years of service.  i'm not a plug reading expert but i think they're fine...the car certainly drives fine.  i putz around town a lot so i'm not surprised the ground straps are a bit ash colored from a lean burn.  we also have 10-15% ethanol content in our gas around here which i've heard will add a white deposit.  otherwise the base color and insulator color look about right.  i looked at some S2000 plugs as well and they seem to come out the same.

another view

the gaps were all basically factory, pretty amazing and goes to show what a quality iridium plug will endure.  my guess is i'll never touch the plugs again unless its a tuning necessity for later mods.

the 6 speed in these has notoriously picky synchros particularly on 2nd and 3rd gear.  i was fortunate to buy an example with the trans still shifting very nicely.  anybody who's been in these cars for a long time says the same thing about making them last a long time, happily: change the trans fluid very often.  i'm still "new" to what the car likes, so i decided to heed the advice.  the fact that its much easier to swap the trans fluid than the engine oil makes it a quick project to knock out.

its been about a year on the Honda MTF i filled it up with after i bought it and decided to swap over to some Amsoil Manual Synchromesh to freshen it up, but also to find out if it would work better than the Honda stuff.  i was also curious to see how the fluid looked.

would have liked to use the crawler but it just sits too high.  had to lay on the wet floor.  nice.

DANK PRODUCT PLACEMENT

welp.  that's about as clean as it gets, i should have ran it longer.  hell i probably could have saved it and used it again.

so, yes, while i'm sure it didn't hurt anything to change the fluid, i think it was unnecessary.  i'll wait longer next time.

driving impressions:  the Amsoil shifts MUCH better on cold upshifts and better all around once warm.  i flogged the car pretty hard up and down the gears and it'll let me row 'em as fast as i can change them with no complaints.  the Honda MTF would hang up sometimes if i pushed it too quickly, as if it took an extra half second for the synchros to mate up.

HOWEVER, one thing i found odd was that cold downshifts on the Amsoil is really bad.  leaving my neighborhood i had to go from 3rd to 2nd at about 10mph and it completely locked me out of 2nd for so long that i had already rolled through the right turn at the intersection by the time i was able to engage 2nd.  i had to double-clutch it until the car warmed up.  i have to assume its just slippery to the point that the synchro teeth are gliding past each other rather than meshing.  2nd gear was the worst...downshifting in the other gears was a little clunky but i didn't get locked out.

kinda sucks with temps dropping even more now, but i'm willing to deal with a mile or two of the occassional careful downshift for how much better it feels when its hot.  the Honda MTF never felt great when cold either, which sealed the deal for me that i think i'll stick with Amsoil from here on out.

I've been there with the brake fluid more times than I want to divulge. Remanned parts leak, flex lines explode, hardlines explode, master cylinder E36 M3s it's internal seals dumping all the hydraulic fluid into the booster, and the more you keep working at it the more E36 M3 breaks. It's amazing how fast a 30 minute caliper swap can turn into a 6 hour berkeley-up fiesta.

In reply to ScottyB :

can you speak about the Duragloss 951? Never heard of it 

The0retical said:

I've been there with the brake fluid more times than I want to divulge. Remanned parts leak, flex lines explode, hardlines explode, master cylinder E36 M3s it's internal seals dumping all the hydraulic fluid into the booster, and the more you keep working at it the more E36 M3 breaks. It's amazing how fast a 30 minute caliper swap can turn into a 6 hour berkeley-up fiesta.

i appreciate you saying that, i tend to feel like i'm either totally out of my depth with a wrench or just have the worst luck.

mr2s2000elise said:

can you speak about the Duragloss 951? Never heard of it 

sure - i'm not a talented detailer but i do like keeping the car clean and i've tried a few products over the years. 

the 951 is a highly concentrated spray wax.  just hit each panel as you dry your wet car with microfiber towels, and as you wipe it down, it self-dilutes with the water and coats the paint.  you wouldn't think that method would work, but its cheap, easy as it gets to apply and the beading is amazing.  i only do a formal hand applied wax coat once a year anymore and fill in the gaps with this stuff.

it seems to last about 2-3 months, although the Si stays in the garage.  probably a month tops if you keep it exposed to the elements 24/7.

In reply to ScottyB :

Thank you. I have a few BAT worthy toys outside, that I use this weekly: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG9FB8U?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

ao while I wipe that off, I can spray the aqua wax you recommended ? If so I will order today 

thank you kindly

mr2s2000elise said:

In reply to ScottyB :

Thank you. I have a few BAT worthy toys outside, that I use this weekly: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG9FB8U?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

ao while I wipe that off, I can spray the aqua wax you recommended ? If so I will order today 

 

thank you kindly

to be honest, you likely have such a decent coat with the Optimum that you won't need the 951.  love the Optimum products btw.

the 951 is a better fit for the last step if you do a normal soap and water wash.

Just catching up on this. I agree about the road trip-ability of these cars. They do a great job eating miles. I also agree about drone and how it's evil and stock exhaust is the best exhaust. 
I'm enjoying reading about you and the car, keep it up. 

ScottyB said:

mr2s2000elise said:

In reply to ScottyB :

Thank you. I have a few BAT worthy toys outside, that I use this weekly: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG9FB8U?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

ao while I wipe that off, I can spray the aqua wax you recommended ? If so I will order today 

 

thank you kindly

to be honest, you likely have such a decent coat with the Optimum that you won't need the 951.  love the Optimum products btw.

the 951 is a better fit for the last step if you do a normal soap and water wash.

I see. Thank you then. Much appreciated. I haven't doesn't normal soap and water probably 10 years :) Thanks!

mr2s2000elise said:

I see. Thank you then. Much appreciated. I haven't doesn't normal soap and water probably 10 years :) Thanks!

sure, and frankly i don't blame you.  the "waterless" washes nowadays are so good that they're pretty much the answer for almost every occassion.  i use Optimum No Rinse often in the winter.  Soap/Water are reserved for the warm months when i really need to scrape and scrub the bug guts off.

mazdeuce - Seth said:

Just catching up on this. I agree about the road trip-ability of these cars. They do a great job eating miles. I also agree about drone and how it's evil and stock exhaust is the best exhaust. 
I'm enjoying reading about you and the car, keep it up. 

thanks man!  i could say the same about your Traccord...that's been a super cool project to follow.

that said, one more update for today:

added some sweet flair to my interior in the form of a custom Copolymer shift knob by WC Lathewerks.  i had some of his stuff from back in my subaru days and always liked it.

the original knob was...dainty, and it would burn the hell out of my hand.  this one is just right for my hand position, stays cool, and the knurled bands are truly functional.  its a bit loud, aesthetically, which is my fault but i do think the red shift pattern looks nice with the stitching.  all in all, pleased.

got a full set of my favorite hardcore street pad, Stoptech Sports from KNS Brakes after cooking the current (stock?) pads and giving myself a bit of a scare.  bedded them in on a nearby back road and by the 3rd hard stop they were already putting my hank00ks into ABS almost immediately.  i really need to be aware of that in the wet, because thats where these Ventus V2 concept 2's are total garbage.  can't wait to get some quality rubber on there.

best and most surprising change was the modulation.  the old pads bit really hard in the first couple mm's of pedal travel, then tapered off.  these are the opposite, medium bite initially then they become super progressive.  i love it but have had to adjust how i heel and toe now, since my foot sinks further on the brake pedal to get a linear response.

Very nice ScottyB, I just picked up my 2010 Sedan a few weeks back. Also stock, it has 130k miles, and seems to have been cared for. It was hiding on Craigslist with no photos and about a 10 word description. I pull up to find a 40+ guy with a 99 SI and an 18 SI sedan in his garage. I knew I found a gem as soon as I saw it!

So far I’ve done Hardrace front LCA/Compliance bushings (check your compliance bushings, they’re likely shot or close to it) fluids/filters/plugs, Hawk HPS and centric rotors all around with ATE fluid. I have some Ingalls cam bolts to add, and I’ll do a rear sway bar and align it.

I only have photos of working on it, but once I get it detailed I’ll be a lot happier with it.

Looking  forward to watching your progress!

Does this Si, and the 2014 TSX K24 the same motor?

Greetings from Sandy Springs! I picked up this '08 sedan back around February after my BRZ  was T-boned at an intersection. They are truly great cars. Love what you've done with yours so far! Mine has about 178K miles and has had nothing but tires, brakes, oil changes, and a clutch job. It's still going strong!