Lit'lphant: The baby hemi from Japan

oldeskewltoy said:

So a 1986 Camry with its 2S-E engine produces somewhere around 122-128 pound feet of torque.   The Clutch Master FX300 is supposed to add 110% more power capability then the standard clutch.  110% of 125 = 137.5, add in the 125 and we are at 262.5 pound feet.

 

That may be sufficient.......... 

You seem to be making a couple of assumptions here: firstly, that the OEM clutch is absolutely maxed out behind the thunderous 2S-E, and secondly, that the 110% uprating has actually been measured and verified on any clutch, let alone your clutch, and is not an appealingly round figure pulled out of thin air to sell parts.

You have a 225mm diameter disc w/ kevlar lining and an uprated pressure plate. Your engine is relatively mild and it is going in a relatively light car for pleasure driving. I'm not worried.

oldeskewltoy said:

preach (dudeist priest) said:

I may have missed what this is going into but:

Please.

Have you ever heard of a Corona Mark II???  The original "X" chassis car (Cressida) from Toyota.  Mine is a 1972 MX22.  Here are a few nice examples....

Think of it as a 7/8ths Pony car....  Here is mine - Dan's Mark II

 

Oh hell yeah! preach's blessing on that!!!

DarkMonohue said:

oldeskewltoy said:

So a 1986 Camry with its 2S-E engine produces somewhere around 122-128 pound feet of torque.   The Clutch Master FX300 is supposed to add 110% more power capability then the standard clutch.  110% of 125 = 137.5, add in the 125 and we are at 262.5 pound feet.

 

That may be sufficient.......... 

You seem to be making a couple of assumptions here: firstly, that the OEM clutch is absolutely maxed out behind the thunderous 2S-E, and secondly, that the 110% uprating has actually been measured and verified on any clutch, let alone your clutch, and is not an appealingly round figure pulled out of thin air to sell parts.

You have a 225mm diameter disc w/ kevlar lining and an uprated pressure plate. Your engine is relatively mild and it is going in a relatively light car for pleasure driving. I'm not worried.

For the most part I agree.  My biggest concern would be strapped down during tuning.

A bit more progress........  all 8 are now in, as is the camshaft, with the timing chain installed.

AND... at the other end of the engine...... 

Now that the crank is in the engine we can get an accurate measurement off of the auto flexplate, and we find the flywheel to still need another .030" removed from the back side for perfect starter engagement.

And fully fitted together......  now I just need a spacer for the slave assembly and we should be good to go!!!

more to come......   

So... after measuring... a 1.200" spacer is being made to properly position/fit the slave.   

This small adapter will be fitted in place of the  hydraulic feeder fitting allowing me to run a -3an line from the master to the slave. 

As previously mentioned I'll run a remote bleeder kit. 

All line lengths will be determined prior to final assembly.......

The first part of slave modification....

more to come......

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Dude how did you embed a slide show?

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Dude how did you embed a slide show?

Uh ya, that's kind of a game changer. 

This build looks awesome. I'll be impatiently waiting to see it run!

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Its a GIF. Its been a world wide web staple for a while now.

This one of my favorite projects.

birdmayne said:

This build looks awesome. I'll be impatiently waiting to see it run!

As will I...  I don't see it up and running for another 18 months, to 2 years.   Just trying to be realistic... and keep expectations in check.

Valve spring specs are finally in....

Now the discussion... how much spring is too much spring????    We want enough spring to follow the cam upto 6000 rpm, yet we need to be careful - as finding extra camshaft cores for this would be nearly impossible.  

It is interesting to note - OST-089 is a 2TC head that might just hold the clue/answer.   This is a single spring, and we need to keep doubles, but something around 85-95#s on the seat, with no more then 180#s on the nose should follow the cam, and not wear the cam lobe

In our case we do need to keep an inner valve spring as that spring holds the valve seal in place.

More to come...... 

That bleeder arrangement is way better than the one I saw used on the annular slave cylinder used by some companies.  It's just an AN -3 line with a 3/8-24 bleeder screw threaded in.  It "works" but the bleeder threads are nowhere near liquid tight so it drools everywhere when you open the bleeder, instead of just going through the hose that a conscientious person sticks on the bleeder....

somewhere in this thread warrenwelder asked me for the stock intake manifold  runner length....

outside radius - 10.5", short side radius 7.5"

Interesting that the expansion plugs are located exactly opposite the intake runner openings into the plenum....  the end 4 cylinders have a slightly straighter line, while the center 4 have a bit of a curve to accommodate the throttle body opening.

Concerning opening up the intake ports larger... I wouldn't want to do that as the ports in the head pretty much match the manifold...

Thanks for the measurments, I am ready to rebuild my first manifold with longer runners and maybe a dual plane plenium. After watching Holdener's manifold videos I realized the first design is only good for putting a 4bl carb on this engine, no performance benifits. I put a similar manifold on a 928 porche with a dead L jetronic and it ran good. I never drove it when working good with stock jetronic.

I am very disheartened that this won't be running sooner. Your help in blazing the trail for me has been great. I was hopeing to see what your power curve and redline is with your cam and intake before grinding mine. I would be willing to kick in $100 for you leading effort if it could help the time frame. I realize that is only a set of plugs and maybe a oil filter in todays market bit if I can help I will.

warrenwelder said:

Thanks for the measurments, I am ready to rebuild my first manifold with longer runners and maybe a dual plane plenium. After watching Holdener's manifold videos I realized the first design is only good for putting a 4bl carb on this engine, no performance benifits. I put a similar manifold on a 928 porche with a dead L jetronic and it ran good. I never drove it when working good with stock jetronic.

I am very disheartened that this won't be running sooner. Your help in blazing the trail for me has been great. I was hopeing to see what your power curve and redline is with your cam and intake before grinding mine. I would be willing to kick in $100 for you leading effort if it could help the time frame. I realize that is only a set of plugs and maybe a oil filter in todays market bit if I can help I will.

Thank you... but the timeline has more to do with the Mark II, then it does to the engine itself.  I expect to have the engine complete within the next 2 months.... but no way to run it in (no management solution, no wiring)

warrenwelder said:

Thanks for the measurments, I am ready to rebuild my first manifold with longer runners and maybe a dual plane plenium. After watching Holdener's manifold videos I realized the first design is only good for putting a 4bl carb on this engine, no performance benifits.

Have you given any thought to adapting the plenum and runners of an existing performance manifold from another engine to the flanges and valley cover you scavenged from the factory intake manifold? SBF seems like a likely place to start. They're everywhere, the intake manifolds  are narrow, and the ports are evenly spaced, like on the Toyota. 

The wait for the work on the Corona is another issue entirely. My dad's pickup has been at the body shop for paint and a little rust repair for three and a half years. Never, ever tell anyone to work on something when they have time.

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

I have a microsquirt and  two old v1 megasquirts. The micro has a wire harness. The micro is new. You can have whatever you want. I can also put any dist. you want on your existing dist. base. I have a mill and lathe and welder and made a living doing this until I retired.

I cut my dist. flush at the hold down and have an electromotive coil pack and driver for ignition with the wires coming out of the firewall straight down the valvecover centerline.

I will cut the tubes off the intake and fixture a dual plane plenum about a foot high and weld in the port tubes in dual plane sequince. The tube length is to be determined. Torque peak about 4600, hp peak 58-6200. Your dyno curve should alow me to get close the first time. I am 75 and won't have a second time.

As far as a performance manifold... what about pairing the runners and running 4 - 40IDF carbs.... on something like this...

I'm sure MKE could fab up something... maybe you can as well...????

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

The amount of problems in 4 webbers, stacks for runner length, air cleaner, linkage, and tuning is enormous. MONEY I have all skills, equipment to fabricate, and material is cheap in these amounts. After research and autism consideration and the decision is made, the finished product soon come.

Your help in specs, gaskets, Pistons, head flow, springs is a great help. I need to get on with my build. The micro mega squirt is yours if you want, I'll send it. Just need address or email.

warrenwelder said:

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

The micro mega squirt is yours if you want, I'll send it. Just need address or email.

Check your email.......

So apparently a couple weeks ago, Tsuchiya Keiichi (driver of Toyotas) got into the driver's seat of a new Challenger SRT Hellcat Redeye and posted it on his YouTube channel.

There is your Toyota-Hemi reference for the day

oldeskewltoy said:

 

 

 

Valve spring specs are finally in....

 

Now the discussion... how much spring is too much spring????    We want enough spring to follow the cam upto 6000 rpm, yet we need to be careful - as finding extra camshaft cores for this would be nearly impossible.  

 

It is interesting to note - OST-089 is a 2TC head that might just hold the clue/answer.   This is a single spring, and we need to keep doubles, but something around 85-95#s on the seat, with no more then 180#s on the nose should follow the cam, and not wear the cam lobe

 

In our case we do need to keep an inner valve spring as that spring holds the valve seal in place.

 

 

More to come...... 

And it might be the solution to the issue.....

The Problem: finding a valve spring, or springs to raise seat and nose pressures enough, without going crazy with extreme pressures.   The dimensions of the main spring seems to be the issue.   1.285/ .935 - 1.650 (OD/ID - installed height)  Not knowing the V8 world like I do multi valve heads...   Some Pontiac springs have some similar dimensions - but with seat and nose pressures that are unacceptable(camshaft destroying), and many other V8 spring just don't fit our requirements.

What Ted wants (Ted is the mind behind Portland Engine Rebuilders) is another 25#-30# on the seat and another #30-#40 pounds on the nose.

And now to the "it" in, "And it might be the solution to the issue....."  The inner spring.   

Dimensionally the inner spring is very similar to motorcycle springs, except our spring is quite wimpy.  As Ted and I agree - the wimpy inner springs are most likely there to hold the seal in place.  

Our next task is to measure the inner spring alone, and measure its pressure @ 1.640"(do to stepped retainer), and measure the pressures on the nose, and then see if one of the motorcycle valve springs will add the pressures we need without going overboard......

more to come....   

one of my friends in Japan.... who knew I was looking for a replacement/extra dist cap saw this... and bid on this..... and WON!! 

at least with the Yen to dollar being quite good right now... I'm getting a bargain... and a complete undamaged set of ignition wires.

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Wow...score!!!

I also read about the exchange rate recently...perhaps I should head to Yahoo Japan Auctions to glance at Cappuccino parts! 

Getting closer....  With a .015" shim under it it could work.... if only the winding was a lefthand winding(like mirror image spring)......

Something I just learned (although it makes perfect sense) If you run dual springs, the inner spring should be wound in the opposite direction of the outer spring, this prevents the springs catching upon one another.   In fact you can run interference springs (inner OD larger then outer ID) as long as they are wound in opposite directions.

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

I have been doing valve jobs since 1960 and never noticed that or even considered it. All modern high performance work I have done were speced and supplied by the customer. You can miss alot when you don't pay attention.