Lit'lphant: The baby hemi from Japan

A bit further.....

The exhaust pushrods look to be horizontal - 

more to come.... 

oldeskewltoy said:

 

 Anyone guess what that green machine is in the background?   Because that's the next step for Litlphant... This is an engine test station

Once they build an oiling adapter this machine will run in the engine and check to make sure it was assembled correctly....  

I am happy to see this comming togather. You are way ahead of me. Is there any chance you will dyno this engine? I would be willing to help with the costs for all the data in return. I really want to know what the power and torque curves for your cam. If your specs work for my wants I will use them, but if not I am still looking at machining a billet cam blank to have a roller cam ground.

warrenwelder said:

I am happy to see this comming togather. You are way ahead of me. Is there any chance you will dyno this engine? I would be willing to help with the costs for all the data in return. I really want to know what the power and torque curves for your cam. If your specs work for my wants I will use them, but if not I am still looking at machining a billet cam blank to have a roller cam ground.

my recommendation would be to check maximum valve lift potential of the valve train.  We got lucky and our maximum valve lift is pretty near to the heads maximum capability - as yet still unproven,  but we'll know for sure once the engine is run on the testing station. 

video to follow.........

definitely more to come...... 

is that a spintron?

Well... for some reason I can't seem to upload the videos....

video 1 = http://gallery.ostportworks.com/displayimage.php?pid=3571

video 1 = http://gallery.ostportworks.com/displayimage.php?pid=3572

video 3 = http://gallery.ostportworks.com/displayimage.php?pid=3570

The specifics... at 500 rpm it's compression is 220# - 230# = it will not be underpowered.....  Other details...  valve to piston -  , and coil bind - 

A few stills from today.....

fidelity101 said:

is that a spintron?

Not quite the same.....   As the control panels says it is a  Simtest Engine Station 

I think that's an integral part of the turbo encabulator.

In reply to fidelity101 :

That is what I know them as. Wish the shop that built the Healey engine had used theirs. Woulda saved a lot of $$$ that got spent to troubleshoot and fix what turned out to be a timing chain error.

 If you remember about 3+ years back..........(3/27/20)

oldeskewltoy said:

So... with the timing cover and water pump gaskets now in hand...  that means we have nearly all the gaskets we'll need

 

Well... there is a waterpump gasket I still need.....  there is a gasket between the front half (cast aluminum), and the rear half (steel plate).  And the only way to get to it is by removing the impeller  - rebuilding the waterpump........

And luckily... there is a place nearby.......  https://marvelousparts.com/   Plan is a full rebuild, new seal, new bearing, new gasket the rest will be made to look all "nice and shiney"

One other oddball part found......  a new thermostat.   Apparently, a similar* t-stat was used in 20 years of Land Cruisers... Gates has 2 - one is 190 degree (what I ordered), and the other is 180 degree.

* similar.... https://www.amazon.com/Gates-33049-195f-Thermostat/product-reviews/B000C2SD2I?reviewerType=all_reviews

A bit further.... while the thermostat is essentially the same, the t-stat housing/coolant outlet gasket is only 5V, so I bought ($6) some gasket material and made one.

By the way, the pump is back.....

And on the throttle body front... 

by notching out the bolt holes, I'll be able to run the Ford 5.4 liter T/B (70mm) on the stock manifold.  The manifold is about 65mm, so once I've determine final location (likely pinned), I'll open up the stock manifold opening to 70mm.

more to come.......  

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Dan, have you calculated the volume of the intake casting? Im interested in knowing..... I was thinking of fabricating a new intake manifold and using some sportbike Individual Throttle bodies (one per cylinder), trying to factor in runner lengths and trumpet sizes....

Cheers

Adam

In reply to 31Vicky :

I have not - I'm not sure an accurate calculation could be made as there are a few irregular shapes inside.   I could possibly pour a liquid in to get a volume measurement.....  as far as ITBs - the stock runner length is roughly 9" long (short side 7.5", long side 10.5").  Longer runners tend to boost low end power, while shorter runners tend to boost high end power.  

On a similar note - air flow.  As a stock lump the engine was rated at 190PS(187hp) to get close to my goal of 300hp, a few of the folks @ PER believe I'll be air flow restricted with the intake manifold - the suggestion was Extrude Hone.   I'm on the fence, and as the manifold would be pretty easy to remove, send out to Extrude Hone, I'm inclined to leave it alone at first. to see how it performs.    I've sent Extrude Hone the details anyway and I'm waiting back to hear how much.

Well, Extrude Hone got back in touch...  they want $700.00.  For now I think I'll pass, if I'm greatly disappointed, I look into it again in the future.

Installed a roll pin so that I could set the T/B on to the 5V manifold. Once pinned, I scribed the new opening, and opened it from 65mm, to 70mm/

As this throttle body doesn't have an idle bypass circuit built in, the plan right now is to use the EGR port for idle air control.  Oh... concerning the roll pin - 3rd time was the charm 

more to come...... 

A common method of porting similar intake manifolds in Ford Modular land is to cut a window into the bottom of the intake manifold, port it, then weld a plate back in. I'm not sure what the runners look like inside, but additional length and even bellmouths can then be welded in as well as additional plenum volume added if you add some depth when you close it back up given you have room in the valley (you can also get some spacers waterjet or laser cut to make room for this). Maybe not a consideration with a very rare and difficult to replace intake manifold for now, but definitely feasible if you're handy with a TIG welder and a die grinder.

bumpsteer said:

A common method of porting similar intake manifolds in Ford Modular land is to cut a window into the bottom of the intake manifold, port it, then weld a plate back in. I'm not sure what the runners look like inside, but additional length and even bellmouths can then be welded in as well as additional plenum volume added if you add some depth when you close it back up given you have room in the valley (you can also get some spacers waterjet or laser cut to make room for this). Maybe not a consideration with a very rare and difficult to replace intake manifold for now, but definitely feasible if you're handy with a TIG welder and a die grinder.

It could be possible to open the bottom of the manifold plenum, but I'm unsure if you could port the "fingers" where they reach over the manifold.   As far as bell mouth entrance, each runner is somewhat bell mouth in its original form...  the opening is about 12mm from the roof - accommodating an elongated bell mouth.  The runner entrance is about 50%-60% larger then the runner at the head.  All told this isn't a bad manifold.

Are there plans to add a spacer under the throttle body?

78CobraII said:

Are there plans to add a spacer under the throttle body?

none, trying to keep the height to a minimum. 

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

I don't believe extrude honing will provide anywhere near the jump you need to reach 300 hp. The restriction appears to be the manifold-head interface.  Fattening the manifold would be more like attempting to remove the restriction in a funnel by making the wide part wider.

Jerry From LA said:

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

I don't believe extrude honing will provide anywhere near the jump you need to reach 300 hp. The restriction appears to be the manifold-head interface.  Fattening the manifold would be more like attempting to remove the restriction in a funnel by making the wide part wider.

Was kind of my thoughts as well....  

This is the Ford throttle bodies underside.  The throttle stop is circled.    When I first tried to install the throttle body after slotting the bolt holes, the throttle stop made opening the throttle body impossible.  After all, it fit the Ford 5.4 fine.  The issue for me was significant interference.  So bad, that I felt my only path was removal, and I'd design a different system for the stop, but once removed(bottom panel in above photo) and I noticed in the sweep of the throttle lever that I might be able to keep enough of the stop to both function, as well as bypass the manifold interference.  After purchasing a 2nd used T/B, I managed to get a shape that seems to work!

more to come......

For the first time......... assembled long block and chassis in the same place.   plan as of now is to look at fitting this in about a week, to ten days.   More info to follow............

Awesome!