Loosecannon's 1967 Camaro RS build

Oh how I wish I could tune the throttle map on my Mustang.   7-8-9 at Gingerman Raceway is a series of sweepers run at high rpm with low throttle input in third or fourth gear depending on the car.  The trouble is at that rpm the map makes the throttle to sensitive, so balancing a nice long corner is difficult.   I'm trying to adjust my attitude ever so slightly and the engine wants to adjust in much larger amounts.  Maybe I can adjust the physical side of it at the petal?

Love the progress here.  I have never Autocrossed but changing out my LSD for a Torsen shaved 4 seconds off my lap times and totally changed the ability to add throttle at mid and corner exit.

Eaton True-Tracs are my hands-down all-time-favourite limited slips.  I've put them in my last three vehicles, and am trying hard not to put one in my current daily (Quaiffe will custom-build one...).

SkinnyG said:

Eaton True-Tracs are my hands-down all-time-favourite limited slips.  I've put them in my last three vehicles, and am trying hard not to put one in my current daily (Quaiffe will custom-build one...).

Slight change of plans, a friend is donating a Torsen T2R diff to the car and I've heard it's even better for autocross than a Tru-Trac

True-Trac, Torsen, Helical, they're all kinda the same sort of thing, aren't they?

SkinnyG said:

True-Trac, Torsen, Helical, they're all kinda the same sort of thing, aren't they?

I think so, just subtle differences in design. Apparently the Tru-Trac delivers 2.5 times the torque to the wheel with the grip but the T2R delivers 4 times the torque.

Oh!  Now I have some torque-biasing envy right here....

The Eaton truetrac literature says it can do "up to 3.5 times more torque to the high traction wheel." I'm guessing it varies by application. I've not found a min spec published.
 

I strongly considered a T2R over the truetrac, but a few things pushed me to the truetrac. 1. Price 2. T2R does have some clutch plates that may wear. 3. Some 2nd hand reports of T2R failures.

When inquiring about the T2 vs T2R, Maximum Motorsports basically told me the only down side to them is drag racing with slicks can break them.   The do wear, just keep fluid changed regularly, A T2R will act like a T2 once it is good and worn, I'm good with that.   

JMcD said:

The Eaton truetrac literature says it can do "up to 3.5 times more torque to the high traction wheel." I'm guessing it varies by application. I've not found a min spec published.
 

I strongly considered a T2R over the truetrac, but a few things pushed me to the truetrac. 1. Price 2. T2R does have some clutch plates that may wear. 3. Some 2nd hand reports of T2R failures.

I now own a Tru-Track and a T2R so I'll try the T2R and if I don't like it, I have options. All I know is that either one has to be better for autocross than the Detroit Locker in the car now

Can I ask why the Detroit Locker is being replaced?  

loosecannon said:

JMcD said:

The Eaton truetrac literature says it can do "up to 3.5 times more torque to the high traction wheel." I'm guessing it varies by application. I've not found a min spec published.
 

I strongly considered a T2R over the truetrac, but a few things pushed me to the truetrac. 1. Price 2. T2R does have some clutch plates that may wear. 3. Some 2nd hand reports of T2R failures.

I now own a Tru-Track and a T2R so I'll try the T2R and if I don't like it, I have options. All I know is that either one has to be better for autocross than the Detroit Locker in the car now

Both are good options and can be fast. Just wanted to add a little info around the truetrac bias ratio and other considerations (which might be axle specific). I'm running an 8.8, so the 9" stuff might be different. 

wawazat said:

Can I ask why the Detroit Locker is being replaced?  

 

 

It's too aggressive and causes push on corner exit

It turned out that the driveshaft was 17 grams and .003" out of balance. I put the driveshaft and new gears (3.89) and LSD back in the car and it all worked as planned. The car is now quiet and smooth on the highway and I'm thrilled about that.

So, our local insurance company (Government run, the ONLY one available) demands an appraisal on collector vehicles if you want to get anywhere near what your car is worth if, God forbid, something bad happens to your car. They have authorized appraisers and so I chose the guy that the restoration shop I work at uses. He came and looked at the car and I've never heard an adult male gush over a car like this guy did. Anyways, he went away with all the info and came back with an estimate based on similar cars selling prices. Now, I have no plans to sell the car so the estimate is meaningless unless something bad actually happens to the car. And yes, I know it's only worth what someone is willing to pay but these same appraisers put a value on my 1969 Suburban and it actually sold for nearly double the appraised value so you just never know. I'm not spoiling it, you have to watch the video to see what it was appraised at. Click here to watch video