black and aluminum, or chevy orange or Chrysler turquoise?
Decisions decisions.
It needs more cleanup first. So i have a minute.
black and aluminum, or chevy orange or Chrysler turquoise?
Decisions decisions.
It needs more cleanup first. So i have a minute.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
My vote's for black and aluminum!
Dusterbd13-michael said:
Decisions decisions.
It needs more cleanup first. So i have a minute.
Leave it as is. Use your time elsewhere.
The Friebuger Method: Detail and paint an engine of a car that doesn't run. I can't blame you.
Gloss gray or black. Gray can help spot leaks. Black can hide them.
One regret I have on my build...I wish i had cleaned up the engine bay better when it was a bare frame. So I support your notions. Now that I am forced to pull the engine and replace a block, one silver lining is painting and cleaning up the engine bay.
Had 8 of the 12 blasted by a biddy of mine.The blaster couldn't seem able to touch the intact paint. Trying out rustoleum hammered paint via brush. Not sure i like it, but the car is a track rat, not a show car. They'll do.
Clean the paint off the lug seats please!
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
I will. No worries there!
Chrysler turquoise would look nice and be easy to spot leaks. Also if they make hammer tone in gun metal I think it would suit those wheels well.(also holy wide barrel! Love it)
I'm about to go through the same thing with a set of my wheels. I think I'll stick with gloss black. I'm going to try painting the inside of the rims with POR15.
In reply to jimgood :
I think im going to see how gloss black looks over the damaged finish on the next four. I just don't like these hammered finish wheels.
i keep chipping away at grinding down spots and stubs. Tedious work, and i haven't gone under it yet. Everywhere you see green ive had to grind.
Coopers are 255/60/15 i scored for 150 for the set. Right height, fair tread. Too narrow, but they'll do for street testing and transit tires. They hold air, which is really nice.
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to jimgood :
I think im going to see how gloss black looks over the damaged finish on the next four. I just don't like these hammered finish wheels.
I don't know how long it would take, but I've never done an engine block.....
Mndsm said:Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to jimgood :
I think im going to see how gloss black looks over the damaged finish on the next four. I just don't like these hammered finish wheels.
I don't know how long it would take, but I've never done an engine block.....
Ever do wheels? Coming up to the challenge this year? Cause I LOVE this idea. Let you do your thing and clear over it for permanence....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
A- never done wheels. I'd have to invest in new markers- all my current ish is water based.
B- who knows. It's been a couple years.
Another night of grinding and primer.
My boogers are black, and im down to 4 flap wheels.
But, close to done!
Next is the big mental hurdle: cutting the bars out of the passenger's side. Im dreading it for no real reason. In my mind it's the point of no return. Steve said were good, so i know we are. But...
Its in the shop. I have sawzall blades. Now i need courage.
Can I get this shot on a "T" xxl please ?
Dusterbd13-michael said:Another night of grinding and primer.
My boogers are black, and im down to 4 flap wheels.
But, close to done!
Next is the big mental hurdle: cutting the bars out of the passenger's side. Im dreading it for no real reason. In my mind it's the point of no return. Steve said were good, so i know we are. But...
Its in the shop. I have sawzall blades. Now i need courage.
Do eet! They aren't magic. You can put new ones back if needed. At some point, those bars didn't exist and got put in. It could happen again if needed.
Edit to add... my car had the crossbar at the top of the windshield too close to the driver imho. I paid a dood 50$ to cut out the windshield. I cut the bar out... woof, that was a big hurdle... I took a bunch of measurements. Sent them to a friend. He bent them and sent them to me. I welded them up. Paid the same dood $50 to reinstall the windshield. No idea why it worried me. Easy peasy.
Cutting the door bars and a-pillar then re-establishing them was a big anxiety thing for me too. I just did the measurements, a friend and my son did most of the fabricating. It was still a big deal to me.
it's definitely one of those "once you've done it, the second time is a breeze" things.
And a couple of chassis builders made me relax my concerns of the chassis moving with the bars out.
Do it with a glad heart!
I did the thing.
Well, you're now past the "Hold my beer" stage. Now it's time to make it fit you're needs. It's going to come out fine. I'm no racer, but I would think the cage should meet whatever standards you will race in. See if you can tweak it for entering and exit. Us rounder people need things to be less tight.
In reply to Dirtydog (Forum Supporter) :
Entry and exit is the main reason the body came off so soon.
Im able to get in and out through the window opening pretty well as it sits, but as i get more control surfaces and seating and such it may change. Worst case i have to remove the top most door bar.
But definitely getting more comfortable woth moving metal and converting to my needs. Thanks everyone!
See, it didn't even hurt to cut those out. You will appreciate being able to work inside without hitting your head/elbow/knee every time you try and move.
Looking good.
The clutch pedal parts are made, just need to get them to you. Maybe the Postal Service will handle that for me... this is the first time in nearly a week I have had time to surf the forum.
In reply to stafford1500 :
You going to the autocross next weekend? Or, i can run up there one night. Or pay you for the usps stuff.
But yes, its amazing how open the cockpit feels now. Even more amazing is that nothing seemed like it was under a load when i cut it. Nothing moved, made noise, etc. Was really anticlimactic.
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