This may be a little ridiculous - a $2018 challenge oddessey

Good luck! I went my route due to the gm slave on the input shaft, and flyin miata telling me that 7/8 is what they use for the same slave in ls1/t56 cars

cruise night was fun! Except that i have a major oil pan leak now, which means no drag racing Friday....

NOHOME said:

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Thanks. Feel like I made you jump through hoops for nothing. Found a ( possible) solution that could be executed with parts from Local NAPA and going ahead with that. 1986 Toyota landcruiser is a pretty good match with a 3/4" bore and available by tomorrow. Fingers crossed it works for me! If not, back here I will be!

 

Pete

Lemme know how that works.  I need a new clutch master for my htob t5.  The rx7 and miata are pretty close...

Dusterbd13-michael said:

cruise night was fun! Except that i have a major oil pan leak now, which means no drag racing Friday....

Major oil pan leak?  Weird.  What did you use to seal it?  How did it start leaking now?  Is it possible that it is around the sensor off the bottom of the pan?  Or loose drain bolt?

Its leaking from the welds where we notched the pan. It has always dripped a little, but tgere quite a puddle now. My guess is whatever pinhole i had got bigger with the expansion and contraction of the aluminium pan during street testing. Or, the thinner oil coming back from the cruise night made a bigger mess/puddle. Either way it needs fixed properly. 

Ohhh.  Didn't know you did that.

Good catch.  It's tough to weld oil soaked aluminum.  Can you put it in an oven for awhile at like 200f before rewelding?

Problem is that to pull the pan, i either have to drop the subframe or pull the engine. 

Gotta be a simple solution to do it in car that i haven't thought about yet. 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Problem is that to pull the pan, i either have to drop the subframe or pull the engine. 

Gotta be a simple solution to do it in car that i haven't thought about yet. 

Epoxy of some sort? JB Weld?

Indy-Guy said:

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Problem is that to pull the pan, i either have to drop the subframe or pull the engine. 

Gotta be a simple solution to do it in car that i haven't thought about yet. 

Epoxy of some sort? JB Weld?

Depending on the size of the pin hole, self tapping screw with O-RING ?

Can you braze it in place?

Put the car in the oven?

If accessible, drill and tap the suspect area for 1/8 NPT and screw a plug into it.

I think the epoxy/jb weld/rtv the weld seams will be my first attempt. After draining the oil.

Well damn. I thought we got it sealed up pretty well.

Before even trying to apply anything to the outside surface, make sure the outside gets scuffed up enough for it to get good adhesion. I think temperature changes may cause a hard epoxy to fail quickly. RTV might do a better job in the short term. Long term is pull it and we can have a another go at re-welding the seams. Make some marks that wont come off when you spot the pinholes.

In reply to stafford1500 :

No worries Steve! Near as i can tell so far, its from a corner.

Well see what happens with the clth that started slipping this morning before i plan a course of action for the oil leak .

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Well see what happens with the [clutch] that started slipping this morning before i plan a course of action for the oil leak .

well, the good news is, you've got the car together enough to find all the E36 M3 wrong with it.  Unfortunately, the car looks like it's going to make you fight for it.

 I Have a 2000  short block , 3100 though , the Pans should be the same If you want to do another, And I have a Dark Yellow that would accent the Green well,  In stead of A Jaguar inspired look For that green Think a John Player Special look that is 'Outline' around the Body Parts.  Come an Get It.

In reply to GTXVette :

Luckily engine trouble hasn't been an ississue . We got a good one. But i may take you up on the offer anyway 

Buffalo bob: the beauty of being able to drive this thing on the street is that I'm finding these issues before the challenge instead of during. This morning on the way down to my brother's to get the Girl Scout stuff ready for the 4th of July parade I decided to try power shifting it to see how it liked it. Smoked the clutch instead. I don't know yet if I can salvage the clutch or just what caused it but my thought it is that it wasn't releasing all the way due to the push rod for the clutch master cylinder coming out of adjustment. I'm going to try that first cuz it's a hell of a lot easier than pulling the motor and trans to inspect the clutch

GTXVette said:

 .....  In stead of A Jaguar inspired look For that green Think a John Player Special look that is 'Outline' around the Body Parts.  Come an Get It.

That is literally the exact same challenge theme I've been discussing over in my Jaaag thread (but my car is already black).

Michael, if you go that route, shoot me a text so I can scrounge up an alternative.

In reply to Indy-Guy :

Not the livery i have made things for, so you're good!

Sorry about the troubles you're having.  Been following this build, and Ooh Baby, looking good.  As stated, better now, than later for any issues.  Happy 4th to you, and enjoy the day with the kids.  Good luck.

Amen! Gonna dump it on the lift at dads and go to the inlaws now that the parade float is done. Time to sit by the pool and eat my father in law bbq.

Good news! It sepf healed for the first few miles, and was much less bad in tth for the last few miles.

I'll try a linkage adjusment and power shift in the morning and see what happens. 

Also, im coming up with a solid post challenge life plan. It really is an awesome street car with some notable shortcomings. Seats and topless being the biggest two.

Remember to thread the rod into the clutch pedal.  Only go a few turns at a time and continue to check that you have a gap at the flywheel when clutch is pressed!