In reply to californiamilleghia :
Pretty much everywhere is going to rust on these cars. No panels that you can buy are going to fit without some form of modification. If AH Spares sold bolts, it would be up to you to put the threads on them.
The frame looks sturdy and is kinda massive, but the metal is like 0.060" more like body metal than what you would expect of a frame. You have to be careful when welding on it so that you don't warp the thing.
The top of the frame in the passenger area can rot out where you do not see it because the tin floor is kinda sorta welded on.
The frame and the front bulkhead where they meet at the bottom of the foot well.
The 4 outriggers that go between the frame and the sills
The sills for sure
The rearmost cross member that holds the rear leaf spring shackle mount is prone to rust on the ends and hard to see. This was not visible until the corner box in the trunk was removed.
Of course, the shrouds being alloy and the fenders steel, means that with the electrolytic reaction you not only rot out the fenders and shrouds where they meet, but you can jump start your own car. Finding someone that is willing and able to do a proper repair on a shroud is not easy. I CAN do them but wont do them for other people cause welding the crusty old aluminum is sketchy and I don't want to buy anyone new shrouds if the TIG gods are not with me that day.
Most outer body panels that I have seen have had the bottom 8 inches repaired.
If you have to pull a front fender, removing the engine is not the worst idea you will have to get at the bolts holding the fender to the shroud, Oh...and the door has to come off to remove a front fender.
Look up "Healey Scuttle Shake" if you want to kill an hour or two learning what causes it and how to mitigate it. When was the last time you balanced your rear brake drums?
If it has wire wheels, it needs 4new ones. And 4 new hub$ at the same time.
They do look awesome when done, almost as nice as an MGA.