In reply to Recon1342 :
Sent you a PM
In reply to Recon1342 :
Sent you a PM
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Got it, Thanks!
4G64s aren't as common in the boost scene as the 4G63 but you can still do some real power with one.
1g or 2g head will fit on that 4g64 block no issue. Wiseco makes 86.5mm pistons that will fit it no issue. I have an Evo 8 intake manifold that would fit a 2g head rwd application with some minor work. I gave Pete Gossett all of my other DSM parts a couple years ago but those probably went wherever the Laser went.
Topped off the fuel tank and did some numbers crunchin'... Two weeks of commuting and running around resulted in a 25 mpg average. This tells me that I have a fairly healthy drivetrain. Cleaning up the contacts on the cap and rotor has alleviated the hard start issue, and the CEL has not returned that code. Temp sensor is still throwing occasional codes, so I ordered one of those as well as cap/rotor/wires.
Forced Induction- Probably gonna do this as GRM as I can. I'll get a couple of flanges made up, and build a Turbo manifold for the 4G64 head. Re-plumb the air intake and add an intercooler, upgrade the fuel pump and injectors, and find an ECU smart enough to run it. Even with low amounts of boost, it should be pretty spicy. That's all later down the road, though.
Wheel and tire questions-
Right now, it's got 14" wheels with 205/75 14 tires. I would like to go bigger wheels and smaller tires. 16x8 with 225/55 16s should work, but what about 17s with 225/50 or 235/45s?
what offset should I look for? Kinda new to this...
In reply to Recon1342 :
the wheel question is difficult to answer without knowing a little more info:
what is the offset of the current wheels?
where do you want the outboard sidewall relative to where it currently is? ie closer to flush with body, or keep where it is?
how much room do you have to go wider to the inboard without crashing into suspension, inner fenders, etc?
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Recon1342 :
the wheel question is difficult to answer without knowing a little more info:
what is the offset of the current wheels?
where do you want the outboard sidewall relative to where it currently is? ie closer to flush with body, or keep where it is?
how much room do you have to go wider to the inboard without crashing into suspension, inner fenders, etc?
See? This is why I hang out here. I've done lots of parts replacing and restoration type stuff, but never any mods. I'll take some measurements this weekend.
I like this website as a quick visualizer for wheel/tire fitment
https://willtheyfit.com/
buzzboy said:I like this website as a quick visualizer for wheel/tire fitment
https://willtheyfit.com/
All of this, very good visual
and here is a quick offset chart
Ok. Current wheels are 14x7, backspace 4", offset 0. Tires are 205/75 14. According to Buzzboy's handy dandy website, I should have no problems at all with a 17x8.5 rim running a 235/50 17 tire. That puts me at about 19mm wider in both directions if I keep a zero offset.
The rear wheel well will have no problems at all, being a live axle with leaf springs and drum brakes. Up front, tires may rub just a touch at full lock, but I don't think it's likely. There's a decent amount of room in there.
With a tire date code of 20-10, wheels will be waiting for a bit. I can almost see through the sidewalls, so I'm at the tire store putting some new shoes on it. Safety takes priority.
My Rock Auto order showed up today (magnet included!), so I did the part swappy thing. First- cap, rotor, and wires. Old stuff/before picture:
I don't know who did these last, but I think they were drunk. Criss-crossed plug wires make me crazy. The wires themselves were really stiff, as well. Also, they used to be red...
So, replace parts as usual; one wire at a time, keeping everything in order so the damn thing will run when I'm finished. The new ones aren't red, but I think the installation is worth 5 hp or so. Sooo much nicer!
The inside of the cap was in rough shape... lots of arc corrosion. I also replaced the temp sensor at this point, but no pictures of that.
Whole job took about 30 minutes, and the little dodge runs smoother than it has in years.
Tires? Check. Ignition? Check. Temp sensor? Check.
Next up? Timing belt!!! At least the SOHC 8 valve is non-interference...
It's amazing how much a new set of tires and a tune-up improved the truck. Also, I've been having a blast hooning around like a teenager again. So much win!!!!
Recon1342 said:
your progress pic game is on point
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
That means a lot, coming from GRM's foremost hand model.
Internet "wisdom" says that a LSD 3rd member from an '89 4-cyl Montero will drop right in to the axle housing.
More research is needed...
In reply to Recon1342 :
If you can find one. The other option is the LOM83 I think by Yukon or Precision Gear. That's an aftermarket drop in LSD that was pretty popular in the 4g swap crowd when I first got my truck.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
It seems the LOM83 is no longer being manufactured. LSD is pretty low on the list, in any case.
I definitely want to keep the truck looking sleepy. It's surprisingly peppy in stock form... 116 hp at 5k, 136tq at 3500, curb weight of 2750 lbs.
Looking at forced induction- Mitsubishi made a 2.5 liter turbo diesel, and the speed snails (P/N 1515A170) for those motors are readily available at decent prices. I basically want a daily driver with a bit more zip- if I break 150 hp, I'll be thrilled.
So, what says the hive- bigger pump and injectors, wideband O2, and a mini diesel kung pao cam crusher?
Other thoughts on turbos? Looking for easy to find, cheap, small, and rebuildable.
Anyways, I also plan to use this thread to track maintenance expenses, so I might as well start.
Truck- $300
Fan belt- $11.25
Cap/rotor/wires- $26.79
Temp sensor- $7.28
Tires- $662.00
Total- $1007.32
With Challenge budgeting, I'd be able to start a sub-$500 class! Woot Woot!!!
A TD04(HL) from a Saab or Volvo would honestly be a great fit for that engine displacement, they were used on 2.3-2.5 DOHC engines and have great response. I have a couple smaller exhaust housings with a T25 flange from my Saab hoarding, I might be able to piece together a good TD04HL-15T/G for you with leftover parts.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
I'd definitely be interested.
Got the Chilton's manual, by the way- thanks for that!!!
Gonna clean up the interior this weekend, maybe investigate the taillight issue (Right brake light stays on). Eh, that's what multimeters are for. Kinda glad this little truck has rekindled my automotive passion... I missed tinkering with things.
Unfortunately, the camper shell had to go... I've had three near misses this week from poor visibility, so off it came.
On the bright side, I was able to install a small toolbox. I'd prefer a cross bed, but this one was free, so it'll work just fine. Also, it locks. Bonus!!!
That's too bad about the camper shell, but I definitely get the visibility compromises. That toolbox is nice and subtle. And I like that it is beside mounted. Makes it so much easier to use. Digging into the middle of a cross-bed toolbox is such a pain, especially on the bigger modern trucks.
On your tail light issue, check that you have the correct bulb first. I seem to remember that the single and dual contact bulbs can fit in the same socket. And when you put the wrong one in you get weird lighting issues like constant on or brake lights flashing with the turn signals.
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