Please be careful welding on a fuel tank.
Please be careful welding on a fuel tank.
Gas tanks should be attached with straps into a padded frame when ever possible. The OEM style of bolted flanges was never a great idea, but it can work with a steel tank. Look at how much support area a Volvo 122 or 1st generation Mustang has with a steel tank. With an aluminum tank the welded brackets are a gauranteed early failure point. Make a simple steel angle frame to support the tank from below and some straps over the top like an Austin Healey, and pad it all with 1/16" rubber sheet.
edit, See Small Axe Racing's thread for Healey tank straps.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
That steering shaft and joints doesn't look any worse than some of the C3 power rack conversions I've seen.
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
"Not any worse than..." is what I strive for!
And now all the leftover C4 parts that won't become part of MonZora are gone from my stash. Sold the headlight assemblies and 10 Sawblades, put some cash in my pocket and cleared some space. Since today is Throwback Thursday, here's my current rendition of a classic pose for Stampie:
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Good points re. Mounting, isolating, grounding, and securing aluminum tank. Future pix will show that I will have followed every word.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Oh, I missed grounding.....But that is not so aluminum specific.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
"Not any worse than..." is what I strive for!
LOVE IT!!!
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I assumed it because of the rubber isolating the tank from the chassis.
I had many gears turning yesterday, so none turned very far. Since I'm not using the OE accessory drive setup (deleted AC and PS), I grabbed a slightly smaller alternator that has mounting ears in better locations for stand-alone:
And Tony brought back the boat gas tank in 3 pieces:
and I started playing with the TIG:
gonna practice a bit more today, then start patching up the holes from the boat fuel system. Anyone need a boat gas gauge sender and float?
i also had to watch my buddy James take the checkered flag in the Pro-Am car that he shares with Bill Auberlen:
1st overall Friday, 1st overall Saturday, 2nd overall (and 2nd in class) today.
Looking good! What sort of TIG machine are you running?
In reply to RacetruckRon :
In reply to RacetruckRon :
I apologize for the yellow and black battery in the background. It was before I knew you, I swear! ;-)
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Haha I'll pretend like I didn't see it.
Do you have AC balance and/or AC frequency control on that buzz box? Those functions will be a lot of help with dirty and questionable aluminum.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
left to right, knobs are
Raised the table so I can sit more upright and work the pedal better:
feel pretty good about this, but my lap joints still look terrible. Seems like the edge of the upper piece starts curling away before either piece is hot enough to puddle.
"Down Slop"
"Post Flow"
What kind of welder is this? You get it in the parking lot behind the strip club?
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
It carries the Jeg's brand, but I can't find manufacturer info for it anywhere. I did LOL at the down slop, but I think post flow is correct, isn't it?
Post flow is just the time or amount of shielding gas that continues to flow after the arc is extinguished.
The other one sounds like after "she" stands up.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
It carries the Jeg's brand, but I can't find manufacturer info for it anywhere. I did LOL at the down slop, but I think post flow is correct, isn't it?
Post Flow still sounds dirty after first adjusting your Down Slop.
BTW those welds look good for just starting out.
I like to do a lot of little moves with aluminum tig, and dip the rod with each move. Keep that puddle nice and full. It will take a lot more filler rod than you'd expect.
what's the proper way to adjust gaps with Aluminum? can't just hit it with a flap disc like steel.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
You can use flap wheels on aluminum, death wheels and abrasive grinding stones will gum up. I will use flap wheels, 3m abrasive pads and stainless wire brushes to clean and prep aluminum depending on how much material and grime needs to be removed.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Ah, i knew stones would gall and I assumed that flap discs would do the same. thanks for the info!
Probably no updates for a couple days, as I have to do our 2019 income tax returns. :-(
Files work for gap fitting.
If brushing the oxide off, go in one direction only; back and forth just puts the oxide back where you started. SS brush to be used only for this purpose.
Acetone the parts before you weld.
If your filler rod leaves the gas shield, it will oxidize and not want to wet into the puddle. Biggest problem I have.
With aluminum the handle gets freaking hot and I have to stop.
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