AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:...had a fun moment with the UHMW worms though, gave one to the 9YO kid next door and told him to stretch it until it broke. it elongated a ridiculous amount but he wasn't strong enough to break it. he runs over and starts telling his Dad about tensile strength, plastic deformation, etc. his Dad tells him "that cat next door, that's Tony Stark right there."
Love it! Inspiring future engineers.
I totally didn't follow all your white-board nonsense and the saw-blade thing, but the end result looks great!
This is amazing
I am sad the saw blade wasn't permanant!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
One of these kids?
Several replies in this post.
In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :
You're funny. i can't wait to see what kind of junk i have to work with now!
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah, it was a little non-sensical as written. i tend to jump around a bit, wherever there's white space. basic story is that i have a shifter base with lever that has some total movement in fore-aft (aka 1-2) direction and some total movement side to side (aka neutral). and for those total movements, i have total cable travels.
i have a transmission selector shaft that requires some fore-aft rotation for 1-2, and some lateral movement for neutral. because challenge, i have about $3 available for materials. Boxster shifter (separate purchase, not part of that $3 LOL) came with cable bracket and cables (thanks AAZCD!), so i have to make all those things work together.
at the trans, i can measure with a ruler the lateral travel between gates, no problem. but for the rotation, i can't measure the angle so i measured the linear travel at a known height from center. then by making that height taller, i can use up more cable travel, and by making it shorter i can use up less cable travel.
from my buddy Jay's SS, I have targets for how far i want the shift knob to move in the 1-2 and in neutral. so now i just have to go from knob travel to cable travel (this is defined by the shifter base itself, i just had to measure it), then calculate the lever ratios for the bell cranks so my desired cable travel gives the necessary selector shaft movement. i couldn't match the SS travels exactly because of package limitations on the neutral bell crank. Still, near as i can tell, it feels pretty decent.
In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :
i have seen your work. i am honored by your praise.
In reply to java230 :
it ain't over yet!
In reply to ShawneeCreek (Forum Supporter) :
the kid is already in some STEM extracurriculars, and both the dad and the kid know they are welcome in my garage anytime. they are seriously my favorite neighbors ever.
In reply to NOHOME :
I sure hope so!
I am honestly ashamed and surprised I hadn't read through this until today. I'm an idiot!
Anyhow, this thread delivers! Innuendo, Metal, Corvair's, very frequent horns. I'm in to see the completion. A lot of you people are WAY smarter than me. It's inspiring to see what is possible in the real world, not "I ordered a $25,000 Art Morrison tube chassis for my 57' Chevy I'll autocross once".
Please reuse the sawblade!
Got the box too. Thanks! Did I pay you for shipping yet?
Gunchsta said:I am honestly ashamed and surprised I hadn't read through this until today. I'm an idiot!
Anyhow, this thread delivers! Innuendo, Metal, Corvair's, very frequent horns. I'm in to see the completion. A lot of you people are WAY smarter than me. It's inspiring to see what is possible in the real world, not "I ordered a $25,000 Art Morrison tube chassis for my 57' Chevy I'll autocross once".
THIS!!!!
java230 said:I am sad the saw blade wasn't permanant!
Me too! That's what I first thought when I "SAW" it.
In reply to NOHOME :
Now youve gone and done it... I want to loop a train!
Copied from the other thread just to keep all build info in one place:
Special thanks to NOTATA and Racetruck Ron for their kindness. Starting with:
I did this:
then I did this:
followed by drilling out about 3/4" of the RH female thread and welding on one of the jam nuts, which allowed me to do this:
Currently modifying alternator housing for better alignment. The alt is from a 2001 4.3 so is drilled for M10 mounting bolts, but the SBC block takes 3/8".
My solution uses, yes Randolph it's true :-), what's left of the boat gas tank pickup tube. OD is .525", which I will turn down to a very light press fit in whatever size hole my 1/2" bit makes. The ID is .360", which I will drill to 3/8" after pressing it in.
I will also build a stiffer bracket picking up off an additional hole on the block. Current mounting supports back of alternator, so the belt tension on the front tends to pull the pulley out of parallel with balancer. I'm gon fix that.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:followed by drilling out about 3/4" of the RH female thread and welding on one of the jam nuts, which allowed me to do this:
That's a picture that shows how AWESOME the LT1 is for swaps. Simple one belt to alternator and Nice and low profile crank pulley. Easy to package.
In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :
No dude, it was nearly impossible. I'm just that much of a mech wizard to make it happen. 
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :
No dude, it was nearly impossible. I'm just that much of a mech wizard to make it happen.
And berkeleying humble as E36 M3 too!
wawazat said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :
No dude, it was nearly impossible. I'm just that much of a mech wizard to make it happen.
And berkeleying humble as E36 M3 too!
Fake it till you make it.
I'm just really happy that LH rod end isn't part of the suspension.
Good job Mr. Wizard! I knew ya could do it.
In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :
And the Optispark does not look evil in that picture...
In reply to 03Panther :
After three passes you won't be able to see it for the oil sludge anyway. Not knocking the abilities of mr Corvair, but come on. Sbc*. They only stop leaking when they run out of oil.
*my challenge car is using one, and if it breaks I'll buy another. But it won't break. Sbc.
In reply to barefootskater :
The SBC's have always been the CLEAN engines in my life. I was ridin' back before HD started using more aluminum and quality gaskets... and never personaly owned a road vehicle with a Driptroit, but worked on/drove a few!
Know how to drive something with Driptroit? Slam your hand in the door first thing every morning... drive it while you're pissed at it! It'll run forever!
I love your build! I don't post much but I check your progress almost every day. Mad skills!!
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I like that alternator mount. Looks like the right idea to me.
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