MONZORA redux: ‘65 Corvair + ‘94 Corvette mashup for 2019 Challenge

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Do I need to get you a chock for your birthday?

RacetruckRon said:

ZR1 > C5 Mag > Z06 Speedlines > C4 saw blades. Wagon wheels aren't even worth listing

For looks, i'd put C5 Mg lower than Sawblades. I really don't like the shape of the Mg spokes, but they are cool because Mg.

Stampie (FS) said:

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Do I need to get you a chock for your birthday?

I grabbed a couple the last time I hit the JY. Thanks for thinking of me though. \m/

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to ejs262 :

No park brake here, just manual in gear.

Same here, I would like to add one though, I'm currently looking into a few options that would involve using C6 rear rotors, but I don't think the front calipers will clear them.

ugh. Just lit the heater, probably not going out there for another hour or so.

Is there a go-fund-me set up for Angry's Garage Insulation? 'Cause I got $20.

Did you even go back out there and do any work, or just to shut the heater back off after a couple hours? Not that I have ever done anything like that, nope, never.

Tell ya whut, I do not miss having the kerosene heater blasting directly at me and still being cold while working on a car.  I don't mind the cold, I quite like it for the most part, but that part where you're working on a car in the cold can go straight to hell; especially when you bash your knuckles on something.

My hands ache thinking about it.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Oof... This literally made my hand start hurting. Or at least reminded me it hurts.

gumby (Forum Supporter) said:

Is there a go-fund-me set up for Angry's Garage Insulation? 'Cause I got $20.

Did you even go back out there and do any work, or just to shut the heater back off after a couple hours? Not that I have ever done anything like that, nope, never.

Y'all are too kind. I let it warm up for about 2 hours. no, that's not true, it was more like 4 hours due to other distractions. More cutting of scrap tubes, plus beating the oval'd 1-5/8" (as cut from flanges) to a generally round shape that the 1-1/2" can slip into. This is for the step up in primary tube diameter, 8-1/2" from port. Before:

during 1:

During 2:

Before and after side by side:

Saturday I got 6 of 8 reshaped. Sunday was just too dang cold, so I didn't even bother lighting the heater.

Forged for fire?

Been chipping away a little at a time, not a lot to show for it. Modifying existing header flanges since they're already in the budget, which makes me look forward to doing a non-Challenge build someday.

Reshaped pipe is not a good fit to flange as-is:

so I measured and marked and used the bandsaw to cut the bottom out, and made a patch to span the gap:

then spaced the pipe about .090" from the port face of the flange and welded it in, and realized when I bolted it up for a look-see that it's too high in the flange:

The bottom lines up good, but the top is obviously too high. This is because I made the transition stubs to the gasket shape, not the port shape. I haz a dumb. But I have a plan for making the others better. This one stays as-is.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

The bottom lines up good, but the top is obviously too high. This is because I made the transition stubs to the gasket shape, not the port shape. I haz a dumb. But I have a plan for making the others better. This one stays as-is.

You know what, if that stub is the same size as the primary tube you want to run, I'd go ahead and do them all like that. A little mismatch between a slightly smaller exhaust port and slightly larger header primary tube is not necessarily a bad thing.

Posted to a local gearhead group looking for a junk LT1 head to use as a welding jig, and one guy says "I've got a pair of flanges that I'll trade you for 750mL of something." So as long as his taste is not extravagant, I'm gonna take that deal.

In reply to wheels777 :

Friend of a friend, not an underage drinking sting.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to wheels777 :

Friend of a friend, not an underage drinking sting.

Traded a fifth of Jim Beam for legit LT1 header flanges dude had sitting on his shelf for about a decade:

and realized that the 1-1/2" round tube would fit with some minor reshaping. Sad because my cool transition stubs are in the scrap bin now, but OK with how good the new config will be. Used pieces of old header flange as bench vise press tool:

and got my D-port on:

Checked alignment to port, and am very happy with the result:

shortened up the new transition stubs so they're all the same:

then reworked my previous tube shapes into something a bit simpler while (mostly) sticking to the target primary length of 17" from port. I'll probably reroute #4 as it's about 4" short but it just kinda fell into place and I was really tired.

Clearance to bolts is great, as is clearance to spark plugs. Will route plug wires below the headers, so no burned boots for me! Will need to rework oil dipstick and tube.

today I'm driving 3 hrs round trip for a set of C5 magnesiums that I don't need or really even want, just because they're cheap:

Will start tacking tubes when I get home. Still need to measure and cut for the primary tube step before I get too far. Also need to make primary collectors and plan secondary tubes.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

I'm glad you got those, I almost sent them to you. They made me sad I didn't have something to put them on lol.

That tube shaping fixture is pretty damned elegant.  Nicely done.

That tube-squishing tool is so cool! I'm sad you only get to use it 8 times. Please continue the header build porn. I love header build porn. 

In reply to all of the above:

Y'all are too kind. Getting compliments from this crowd means a lot. 

Sweet tube werk ......yu gonna use a four into one header collector thingy?

759NRNG (Forum Partidario) said:

Sweet tube werk ......yu gonna use a four into one header collector thingy?

4 into 2 into 1, the classic "tri Y" design. Will be slightly lighter, and should be better for low-rpm torque, vs 4 into 1.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

759NRNG (Forum Partidario) said:

Sweet tube werk ......yu gonna use a four into one header collector thingy?

4 into 2 into 1, the classic "tri Y" design. Will be slightly lighter, and should be better for low-rpm torque, vs 4 into 1.

Showcasing more of your exquisite weld porn for all to partake ???

Solid awesome.

Rerouted #4 because I couldn't not do it.

acceptable length range 16-1/8 to 17-5/16, so I picked 17" as my target.

2 = 16-1/2"

4 = 16-1/2"

2 and 4 get paired, so I'll add 1/2" to both

6 = 17"

8 = 16" so I'm going to make a small adjustment to get to 17" and they'll all be money.