wawazat said:Sent you an email as I don’t have your digits. What are we working on and what tools can I bring?
Top secret stuff. Thanks for the help tonight. The judges will dig it. The competition will hate it. You rock.
wawazat said:Sent you an email as I don’t have your digits. What are we working on and what tools can I bring?
Top secret stuff. Thanks for the help tonight. The judges will dig it. The competition will hate it. You rock.
He was a working supervisor last night! Glad to be of assistance and look forward to future garage time with you.
The skies opened up last night on the ride home. Good thing I left the top up and closed the windows before I left your place.
Spent some quality time with a brass bristle brush and some Simple Green:
Then realized I didn’t have any DyKem, so I had to use a light coat of black spray paint so scribe lines would be visible:
Then I devised a relatively simple fixture to keep everything aligned for cutting and welding. I carefully measured hole spacing on those OE bracket mounts, then transferred those measurements to some short pieces of angle. Center punched, piloted, drilled, and deburred, then bolted loosely in place. Clamped a bridge piece of angle to top of short bits, and drilled a pilot hole thru both ends. Then carefully measured and marked another pair of holes 4-1/4” inboard of those, on the bridge piece only.
I have an appointment with a bandsaw tomorrow morning, after which I will bevel all cuts so whiskey_business can weld it back together for me, 4-1/4” narrower. This episode of Scope Creep Saturday is brought to you by my buddy Jay, who called me out for thinking it would have been OK to let the rear tires stick out 1-1/2” beyond the wheel arches. My intent is to run 275s for the Challenge but this narrowing will allow me to tuck 315s on the street.
Does this use the 1/2 shaft for the upper control arm? Also, regardless of that, what happens to Ujoint angularity at full droop/ full bump? Roll center will move some as well, how will that effect the roll axis?
TurnerX19 said:Does this use the 1/2 shaft for the upper control arm? Also, regardless of that, what happens to Ujoint angularity at full droop/ full bump? Roll center will move some as well, how will that effect the roll axis?
No, they have upper and lower control arms and tie rods much like the front, the cv shaft is along for the ride
Subframe was too big for bandsaw, so I had to make the first cuts by hand.
One hour later...
And then a while after that:
and
I dropped off the subframe pieces and 8 Lbs of welding rod to whiskey_business, along with some loose instructions. I guess we’ll know in a few days how this is gonna pan out.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Perhaps more body roll due to narrower track width, but all linkages maintain their OE lengths. Audi transaxle is narrower flange-flange than C5, so possibly no change to halfshaft length. We’ll burn those bridges when we’re on them!
Also, that simple alignment jig I showed earlier? Yeah, didn’t work. My dumb ass overlooked the fact that a single pin at each end does nothing to prevent rotation around each pin. Fortunately, there are other places to clamp and other dimensions to check, so it’s gonna work out just fine.
nimblemotorsports said:Making good progress! Tires sticking out with flares is what all the cool kids do.
Steamroller width tires almost touching in the middle under stock bodywork is what the gods do.
In reply to nimblemotorsports :
Thanks man! I’m doing my best to make it a top-shelf Challenge car, but throwing in a few things that make it something I want to keep.
In reply to Patrick :
It was soft when *you* called in reinforcements, but it’s super-legit when *i* make the same call. ;-)
Stampie said:Patrick said:Something something something it takes a village idiot
FTFY
so when are you going to be here?
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