AC said:
"header bags"
Not it. Musta been Steve.
Also, great to see an update here!
I claim the source of header bags and also glad to see you are making progress during the cold months.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Heat shields that completely surround the headers to the engine to keep temps down. Usually with cooling air blown thru them to keep the headers from getting all melty.
Someone pointed out that the LT1's with upswept exhaust manifolds came with stamped steel valve covers, vs the corvettes with their downswept manifolds and composite VCs. So I found a set of steel VCs for cheap. I will clean them up and put them on. I hope they clear the aluminum 1.6 rockers, but I can make them taller if I have to. I certainly don't want to have a melty burny situation and I can tolerate the extra weight.
Who's got two thumbs and didn't close the valve on their argon bottle last night?
1200 psi, gone. FML.
759NRNG said:As it sits right now what are we looking at weight wise?
Not sure. I'm gonna guess 3050 with me in the drivers seat, and about 42% front. My '68 ragtop was a relatively heavy Corvair and it weighed about 2800 @ 37% front IIRC.
There's a lot of aluminum suspension where steel used to be, but there's also a radiator and fans and coolant and a cast iron engine block. Audi transaxle case is aluminum vs cast iron for OE, but I've added a big chunk of C5 frame rails as well. I'll be very happy if it's in the ballpark of 2900 no driver.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Who's got two thumbs and didn't close the valve on their argon bottle last night?
1200 psi, gone. FML.
Boooo! Sorry dude.
In reply to wawazat :
Totally. AW and AK1 offered to get it refilled tomorrow, which I could count as a minor win I suppose.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to wawazat :
Totally. AW and AK1 offered to get it refilled tomorrow, which I could count as a minor win I suppose.
It's a Christmas miracle!
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:and the battery has a home. The tray is another piece of the buffalo, er, I mean C4 donor.
Side post battery with the terminals right up against piece of sheet metal... Big GM energy here.
RacetruckRon said:Side post battery with the terminals right up against piece of sheet metal... Big GM energy here.
gap is larger than it looks from this angle. and if they ever touch, it means something else has gone wrong. i like the low package height of the side post battery. i could add a bump-in to the engine box, as it's below and forward of the #2 header pipe. if i go top post, i have to move the battery rearward a bit so i can still turn the window crank. we shall see.
You could even screw/glue/rivet a thin sheet of some non-conductive plastic or masonite or whatever to the wall nearest the terminals, and then never give it another thought.
DarkMonohue said:You could even screw/glue/rivet a thin sheet of some non-conductive plastic or masonite or whatever to the wall nearest the terminals, and then never give it another thought.
good call!
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:RacetruckRon said:Side post battery with the terminals right up against piece of sheet metal... Big GM energy here.
gap is larger than it looks from this angle. and if they ever touch, it means something else has gone wrong. i like the low package height of the side post battery. i could add a bump-in to the engine box, as it's below and forward of the #2 header pipe. if i go top post, i have to move the battery rearward a bit so i can still turn the window crank. we shall see.
There's also this -> Link option.
with no argon, i decided to clean and prep some additional engine box pieces, but i quickly got bored of that. so i grabbed a couple scraps of shelf and cleaned them up for a test of "how bad is it to use plain MIG wire with no shielding gas?"
Result: it is not great. not by a long shot. but it would probably be OK for some minimal tacking. No, i did not tack any of my real parts, this was only a test.
Observation 1: the wire just kinda piles up on the surface, even at a higher amperage. i think the surface oxidizes quickly from the heat, and the bead just doesn't melt into the base metal:
Observation 2: lots of voids in the surface of the bead.
Observation 3: flap disc takes it from E36 M3ty to pretty!
Observation 3A: my flap disc is worn out.
Observation 4: no penetration. there, i said it.
Observation 5: i'm sad, because my argon hookup is dry until Friday.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:"how bad is it to use plain MIG wire with no shielding gas?"
Answer: Bad.
Yeah, don't do that.
Sometimes you can get small bottles of argon at big hardware stores. They're super expensive, but better than nothing.
You can definitely get rolls of flux-core wire at HD. Does your machine have the nozzles and such for that?
Wait, you are running argon for mig welding? Co2 is easy to get and works great for mig! A co2 argon mix works perfect imho, but I generally just use co2 cause I can get it quickly and easily.
"if i go top post, i have to move the battery rearward a bit so i can still turn the window crank. we shall see."......hmm better weight transfer equals more traction and duh better ET's yeah!!!! Just goofin' 3-4 inches back is not gonna give you an 8.63 et at 167 mph ........we can dream thou eh?
wvumtnbkr said:Wait, you are running argon for mig welding? Co2 is easy to get and works great for mig! A co2 argon mix works perfect imho, but I generally just use co2 cause I can get it quickly and easily.
Only using 100% argon because I don't have money for a MIG bottle til payday. I will use 75/25 because I've heard that's the best for MIG. I've read that 100% Ar is OK for non-structural MIG but the result is not as strong as using 75/25.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Maybe you covered this previously, but why not simply enclose the entire area around the engine from side to side? Why the box with the space on either side? Isn't that a lot more work? Couldn't you have done one front panel from door to door and then a cover across the entire rear seat area?
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