Spent a bit of time cleaning up in and around the car, did a tiny bit of yard work, then updated the start, run, and drive lists.
Then I did a couple things from each list, including a "good enough" PCM bracket, using the C4 bracket as a starting point. Somewhere a person in jorts and white New Balance had a heart attack:
I think it came out pretty OK. I wasn't totally excited about using pop rivets but they are the right fastener for this part.
and as installed, it's probably farther from the exhaust in MonZora than it would be in the C4.
Didn't get to fuel lines today. And Monday I'm doing my taxes so probably won't get to them before Tuesday.
Nice gloves. I am rooting for this to be finished for the challenge!
wawazat
SuperDork
4/17/23 9:12 p.m.
Lemme know if you need help Patrick. I'll dig in where and when I can.
wawazat said:
Lemme know if you need help Patrick. I'll dig in where and when I can.
Check the whiteboard
and pick your tasks. I'll be here every night this week unless whiskey_business and I are splicing halfshafts. If you want mindless assembly work, the exhaust and rear suspension need to be bolted up. If you want square tube and sheetmetal fab, I need a filler panel and a console air duct and a radiator air duct made. If wiring is your thing, I'd like to add two relays up front for headlights. And if you want to get stinky, you can change the gear oil in the transaxle. :-)
Not sure of the bolt size, spacing, or spline you need. I might have something in the junk pile from some Audi/Porsche/VW/GM stuff I took apart. Let me know what to look for if you want me to check.
AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) said:
Not sure of the bolt size, spacing, or spline you need. I might have something in the junk pile from some Audi/Porsche/VW/GM stuff I took apart. Let me know what to look for if you want me to check.
Wow, I appreciate the offer! Here's what I know so far:
- Outboard joint is male 30 spline
- Inboard joint is bolt-on
- Bolt holes are pass-thru for M10
- PCD = 6 x 104 mm
Length currently unknown. That's why "Assemble rear suspension" is #1 on the Drive list. :-)
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
any chance you could tell me the bolt hole diameter and the PCD of the six holes? Looking at some exploded diagrams at nemigaparts.com, it seems there's a lot of commonality between the early Boxster G86.00/01 and the A4 01X transaxle. i wonder if i could swap output flanges to have more bolt-on choices.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I'm having a busy day at work, but tomorrow I'll have plenty of time to check them out.
quick question for y'all: did i torque the flywheel bolts?
gumby
Dork
4/19/23 9:10 a.m.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
quick question for y'all: did i torque the flywheel bolts?
You do this to yourself too?
gumby said:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
quick question for y'all: did i torque the flywheel bolts?
You do this to yourself too?
dude.
i remember asking myself this question before i installed the clutch disc and pressure plate. Why i didn't just grab the torque wrench at that very moment, i'll never know. so yeah, since i haven't filled coolant or connected fuel, it'll be a relatively straight forward waste of 6-ish hours this weekend.
I bet you a nickel you did.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
any chance you could tell me the bolt hole diameter and the PCD of the six holes? Looking at some exploded diagrams at nemigaparts.com, it seems there's a lot of commonality between the early Boxster G86.00/01 and the A4 01X transaxle. i wonder if i could swap output flanges to have more bolt-on choices.
These pics are from about 5 years ago showing flanges/stubs. I don't have these available, but the comparison is a Boxster S 6-speed (G86.20) on the left and a 5-speed (G86.00/01) on the right. Not interchangeable. Not sure what the 01X has. I do remember a guy on the Boxster forum swapping a B5 A4 transaxle into a Boxster. I'll see if it's relevant if I find it.
More info coming later today.
Audi 5-speed swap for a Boxster 5-speed. Note the Flange discussion. https://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/56663-audi-transmission-swap-diy-thread.html
What does yours look like?
I think the inner CV joint from a Boxster S will bolt to your trans. I have a set of those axles. I have a lot more 5-speed axles, an '03 Grand Prix GTP axle, and probably some others I'm going to check soon.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
quick question for y'all: did i torque the flywheel bolts?
I know I did on the engine install I recently did on my racecar. I actually have pictures of it.
Get to Road Atlanta for a test day before the national championship. Car runs great. Starts developing a rattle. Ugh. Seems like it's in the bellhousing.
Take out Trans. Flywheel bolts finger tight! Wtf? Take flywheel off of the engine. There was a tiny sliver of metal between the mating surfaces of the crank and flywheel that was now smashed flat.
Apparently, that little sliver of metal got squished in there and as it flattened relieved the tension of the fasteners.
So, my advice.... even if you did, doesn't hurt to check!
Junk that I'm willing to donate if needed:
I'm not sure how the PCD is measured on these, seems to be different from wheels, so here's pics. Measurements are rough.
Audi Axle (unsure of what donor) about 19" from mounting edge to edge. M10 bolts are used to flange. 104mm from the outside of the bolt to outside of the bolt.
Porsche Boxster S (G86.20) Axle about 23.5" from mounting edge to edge. M10 bolts are used to flange. 104mm from the outside of the bolt to outside of the bolt.
Base model Boxster (G86.01) joint removed from axle. M8 bolts are used to mount. About 96mm across the outside of the bolts.
There is more stuff available, but this seems like the direction of what you need. I can take them apart as needed for further detail, but not making that greasy mess unless you ask.
AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) said:
There is more stuff available, but this seems like the direction of what you need. I can take them apart as needed for further detail, but not making that greasy mess unless you ask.
thanks for the info! I'm going to pass. Moving forward with the cut/sleeve/weld approach for set 1, and maybe a different approach for a 2nd set.
I did not realize this car was getting close to ready for this year's Challenge. I love it! Looks rad!
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
The longer shift cable with the melty sheath allows me to move the shifter base forward about 2", which is exactly what I needed. Thank you for making that problem go away! You can see the old location marked on the floor. Forward is to the right.
bounced around a bit tonight. replaced the shifter cable and assembled shift linkage. terminated tach lead from coil into dash, and installed dash into car. tested headlights, taillights, turn signals, brake lights, dash lights, and both idiot lights (charge and coolant temp / oil pressure). noticed something interesting: when i turn key from OFF to ACC, the tach jumps up to 1600 rpm and stays there. but going from OFF to RUN, tach doesn't move from zero. can't say what it does when the engine is running because it's not ready to run yet.
also checked gas gauge, and it works with C4 sending unit. GM didn't change their sending unit resistance range forever, so i knew it would work. in fact, the hacked up tank is the shape it is to give room for the C4 float to swing through its entire range. With only 8.5 gallon capacity, i decided early on that a working gas gauge would be important.
also cut and flared the hard line off the clutch master. i even remembered to put the tube nut on before flaring it THE FIRST TIME.
also figured out fuel line routing and where to tap into the cowl area to get air for the center duct back to the engine, without disturbing any of the wiring or other stuff running up under the dash.
also figured out how to mount the pressurized coolant reservoirs (one next to radiator in frunk, one in engine bay). I'll probably fab those mounts tomorrow. getting as much of the "doesn't hinder removal of powertrain" stuff done as i can, because this weekend i'm pulling the powertrain to find out which kind of dumb ass i am: (1) the kind who doesn't torque flywheel bolts; or (2) the kind who torques flywheel bolts but doesn't make a record of it. I honestly think i did not torque them.
DocRob
Reader
4/20/23 6:11 a.m.
Win of the week is remembering to put the nut on before flaring the first time.
I wish I could have that kind of success.
So, how to make mounting tabs for coolant bottle when mounting ears are all askew?
I started by blocking the bottle up on the welding table and bending some scraps of shelf sheetmetal into " [ " shapes, with legs longer than I'd need. Then waved my magic wand, and ended up with:
I don't actually have a magic wand. I measured and marked and trimmed and bent, drilled a 5/16" hole in each, tightened a bolt and nut through each, tacked the nuts in place, then bolted the tabs to the bottle and set it on the side panel. Marked, removed paint, and tacked tabs to side panel. It's certainly good enough but I already see rev 2 in my brain.
Then I updated the master list and split 2 previous tasks into 4, just so I could check one of them off the list:
I'll be back at it tomorrow night.
You're ruining our years-long tradition of mocking your build pace, and not even resorting to any evident half-assery. Keep it up. Wish I could be in Gainesville when you get there.
