Opti
SuperDork
6/3/23 9:24 a.m.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I ran the drag car in speed density. Make sure your VE tables are spot on. Or have someone like Moe Bailey set one up for you.
I'm pretty sure I've got a handful of LT1 MAFs laying around, if you want one it's yours.
I've done exactly what you've done a bunch of times to diagnose a bad maf and normally it's fine. IIRC when you unplug the maf it forces open loop, it'd been a while since I messed with an LT specifically on something like this, but most mid 90s GMs ignore some inputs when in open loop, so it might not actually be a MAF (normally is in my experience though).
I know you are using eehack and flashback so you should be able to data log on eehack and graph the maf pretty easily. Not sure what you are using to tune, but I think tuner cats has a selection to switch to SD mode, haven't messed with it in Tunerpro yet though.
SV reX
MegaDork
6/3/23 9:40 a.m.
I'm impressed with those weight numbers. They are awfully close to the stock numbers.
Why the large gain on the LF corner? Is that just the engine moving forward? Why did it gain a lot on the LF and lose weight on the RF?
In reply to Opti :
Yep, using eehack to log, tunerpro to edit bins, and flashhack to flash.
sure, I'd take a MAF, happy to paypal you for shipping, thanks!
I haven't done any tuning yet, need to get a WB and get the car running reliably first.
SV reX said:
Why the large gain on the LF corner? Is that just the engine moving forward? Why did it gain a lot on the LF and lose weight on the RF?
Haven't looked into it yet. Could be differences in preload on my adjusters. Could be that I welded E36 M3 crooked. No reason as far as component locations are concerned.
MonZora gets a bath! Part 1 of a series?
and Part 2, a short with voiceover:
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I was expecting more sexy wet T-shirt action but at least part 2 thumbnail has a little bent over action.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
MonZora gets a bath! Part 1 of a series?
What did the hearty dose of windex in the middle of the field not count as a bath?
And a full, albeit brief, tour of MonZora:
maschinenbau said:
ExcessKuma said:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
MonZora gets a bath! Part 1 of a series?
What did the hearty dose of windex in the middle of the field not count as a bath?
For him or the car?
Personally I bathed the car in Windex, what he does with windex on his own time is on him.
Well, I had planned to take a picture of four blank white boards, but:
i'm signing up for an autocross on July 2nd, and MonZora's got some immediate needs. Tonight I (hope I) addressed a possible vacuum leak where the throttle body top plate gasket was looking kinda sketchy:
EDIT: the top plate only seals the fresh air source for the crankcase ventilation, so I doubt it will change engine behavior. However, the bolts securing throttle body to intake were only finger tight... 8-/
and i adjusted the idle screw to let the blades close a little more. I want to observe IAC behavior and see if the existing idle passages will let it settle down a little. Note to Quasi: it's a T15. And I have to revise my fuel line bracket to allow access to adjust it.
And I'll share a little of my concours strategy for 2024:
pitter patter, we're only 10 months out!
EDIT: add "install rear bar" and "modify rear bar drop links" to the list.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
?
Exhaust note accelerating:
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
That is a glorious noise.
I have 3 rear bar candidates:
- OE C5 bar that came with frame and suspension, about 17mm hollow;
- an old Crown Mfg V8 Vair bar, 19mm hollow; and
- OE 2000-ish Mazda 626 sedan bar, about 15.5mm solid.
I'm starting with the C5 bar because it's the middle of the 3 options. I narrowed the rear about 5", so this bar is that much too wide. It also has to be flipped upside down to clear transaxle, which means the end link attachments are angled the wrong way and will require cutting and rotation.
Already cut, but laid out as if it wasn't:
Flipped over with center 5" removed:
I'll stop at Alro on Monday AM and hopefully find a usable drop of DOM that's close to the right ID. If not, I'll ask Tony to drill/bore a length for me.
EDIT: mocked up with some C4 heater hose pretending to be welded sleeves:
I have a Jeep ZJ rear sway bar you can have for nothing if it does you any good. Will try to get pitchers and dimensions tomorrow.
In reply to DarkMonohue :
I appreciate the offer, but I think I'm good with what I've got. And if you're in PNW, shipping would $uck. Thanks a lot though!
As much as it was hiking the front, id go straight to the biggest you have ir can fit in the budget. Late s10 blazers had 1.25 front bars that are a very similar shape to the rear c5 bar.
I believe sway bars are made of spring steel which I think means that welding it eliminates the temper in the weld area.
probably not a big deal on the ends but in the middle, where it twists, it will act like regular steel. I understand you can heat treat it again but you will likely need to know exactly what kind of steel it is made of.
I've heard of a lot of people not having any issue with them being welded but something to think about.
Dusterbd13-michael said:
As much as it was hiking the front, id go straight to the biggest you have ir can fit in the budget. Late s10 blazers had 1.25 front bars that are a very similar shape to the rear c5 bar.
For $1 I can go to my local u-pull with my tape measure and check stuff out. I'm going to mock up mounting on top of frame, could make the bar more efficient but might not work with my headers, and will be a couple lbs heavier.
jfryjfry said:
I believe sway bars are made of spring steel which I think means that welding it eliminates the temper in the weld area.
probably not a big deal on the ends but in the middle, where it twists, it will act like regular steel. I understand you can heat treat it again but you will likely need to know exactly what kind of steel it is made of.
I've heard of a lot of people not having any issue with them being welded but something to think about.
Indeed, OE bars are heat treated, for elastic properties and for durability. I have some more digging to do.
jfryjfry said:
I believe sway bars are made of spring steel which I think means that welding it eliminates the temper in the weld area.
probably not a big deal on the ends but in the middle, where it twists, it will act like regular steel. I understand you can heat treat it again but you will likely need to know exactly what kind of steel it is made of.
I've heard of a lot of people not having any issue with them being welded but something to think about.
I had to shorten a Ranger bar to fit my Challenge Miata a few years ago. I cut the ends off and welded flat bar, with adjustment holes, at the ends. I avoided welding in the middle for the reasons you state.
