Sorry to hear about this, but it is so typical isn't it? Waiting to hear what you learn, selfishly since I have a NC 6 speed bolted on to an Ecoboost now in the GT6 as a mockup, but eventually will need to put a flywheel and clutch on it. And great news that the controls and it cranked without any magic smoke came out. We had a Spitfire recently let out all the smoke due to the stupid seatbelt warning wiring shorting out under the seat and burned the harness all the way back to the starter solenoid. I know it will be something simple and you'll be back on track soon.
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks, Dave. Yes, I'm very relieved that the controls fired up with no issue.
I'm guessing the flywheel will be fine but the clutch will need to be a heavy-duty Miata unit. Unless I can see that the conflict is really small. That's assuming the two will bolt up. This whole cross-polinating business is not for the faint of heart...
Isn't that the truth. The "recipe" for these swaps is complex to be sure. I do agree that an NC clutch should be the ticket for the ecoboost since you are using the NC flywheel and NC transmission. Lead the way, so others can follow! Have a good weekend! I am at the body shop tomorrow as we are putting my old TR4A body on the powder coated frame to see how the body gaps are looking before the final paint.
I think it was very close to clearing based upon how it sounded turning backwards. There should be some witness marks to indicate where it was stopping. Maybe it would just take a little clearancing. Otherwise, there must be a NC Miata clutch that can take 350hp, right?
Good thing it didn't fire or it might have done some machining for you.
Yeah, that ecoboost has 270 Ft/lb at 3,000 rpm, so it would have definitely machined the bell housing.
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:
Yeah, that ecoboost has 270 Ft/lb at 3,000 rpm, so it would have definitely machined the bell housing.
350 lb-ft at 2500 rpm with the Ford Performace tune. It's silly.
I agree with Joe that it's probably not a big clash. But I've not gotten a chance to do any work on it though.
On Goodwin, there is a Clutch-Masters Miata clutch that is rated at 400 lb-ft, so that's probably a solid choice. They have an ACT 6-puck that's rated for "340 and more". Not sure what to make of that. This is all assuming the Miata clutch will bolt up to the ST flywheel. Or that a Miata flywheel would work fine on the EcoBoost. Again, not for the faint of heart.
Busy couple weeks, but I got back out today for some more work. I did have a quick visit this morning with cousin and world-class enabler GXP Kirk - good to see you! We discussed how I wanted to remove the glass off the back, but that I didn't know how to do it.
Turns out it's incredibly easy.
A little prying on the top and sides, and the whole thing lifted right out. My 14 y/o came out and helped with the actual removal and stowing in the attic. If I'd known it was that easy I would have taken it out like a year ago! The seal even looks like it might be in good enough shape to be used again.
Put away in the attic with the windshield:
I've been debating what to do about the sunroof. This was the culprit that allowed all the water in and caused all the rust damage. Mid removal:
I could buy a new fabric sunroof, but I doubt a new one would be substantially better than the original. And no security.
I could buy a moon-roof panel, but this isn't 1988. And lots of weight up high. And lots of heat without the convenience of a slide-back power sunroof.
Rivets on the rails drilled out - time for removal:
Wow, the fabric roof is so much heavier than I ever would have guessed!
Wow, the roof is so much more flexy than I ever would have guessed!
I'm going to fab up a carbon fiber panel instead of the sunroof. Decided right now.
Here's how it sits today:
TVR Scott said:
I'm going to fab up a carbon fiber panel instead of the sunroof. Decided right now.
That has so much win in it that I decided I owe you a beverage of your choice.
Yes. Carbon fiber all the way.
Please save all your ragtop components, Scott, as they are TVR specific. I'm facing a similar dilemma, looking at what to do about that hole in the roof. I've thought of a plexiglass/acryllic panel like the old sunroofs, but attaching and sealing it while retaining the ability to open and remove it pose a problem. I rather like the original ragtop, but mine is missing but for the riveted frame, so if you are intent on replacing it I would love to have the discarded components. I'm thinking I could find a local craftsman that might be able to recreate or improve on the original if I had the necessary components.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Yeah, I can save the sunroof parts for you, Stu. They're not in very good shape, but everything is there. I would not assume water-tightness.
It might have been made specifically for the TVR, but there is a manufacturer name on it. It's not totally custom.
I didn't dig too deep into it, but there is a company out there making new ones. They offered custom sizes. Google at your leasure, since that's about all the info I have.
Yeah, Scott, the brand name was "Weathershield", and I believe they were bought out by Webasto ages ago. I've seen that the current iteration of that company is offering the top for the MGB-GT, which as I understand it was the same width but a fair bit longer, so it can be sectioned and made to fit the TVR. They ain't cheap, though. I know that with the hardware I can get something built in this area... there's a '64 Impala STATION WAGON(!) here in town with a full length sliding ragtop.
Stampie said:
TVR Scott said:
I'm going to fab up a carbon fiber panel instead of the sunroof. Decided right now.
That has so much win in it that I decided I owe you a beverage of your choice.
I will take you up on that. In the sort of near future.
Just an fyi....
I was told by a glass guy never to store glass like that. It can break from its own weight. I was told to wrap it in an old blanket and stand it on end.
Any progress on the clutch? If you need help pulling the transmission, let me know.
I'm a late responder here but how you looped your vent is essentially how I did it on the race car and I've never noticed any smell.
My buddy Kolby came by today just to say hello. I had different ideas and roped him into helping with the roof panel mold! Conveniently, we got to know each other while working at an aerospace composites company. So between the two of us, we can pretty well knock out a project like this.
Mind you, we're making this E36 M3 up as we go. Caveat emptor.
First steps were laying down 1" wide strips of 5mm underlayment to follow the roof contour. Carpet tape is holding down the ends. We made a very simple template to try and stay true to the surface.
Part way done:
And first layer down:
At this point the slats were pretty uneven and didn't want to hold down very well. We started adding the second bias layer, and that firmed everything up quite a bit.
Even the two layers added a surprising amount of rigidity. Second layer done here:
Then we ran out of carpet tape and had to switch to Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive. Much mess and keystone-cops grade running around ensued. No pics of the process.
Here it is with the third layer finished and a bunch of random crap piled on top. Kwality work here!
Once it's all set up, I'll try running a putty knife around the edge to pry it off the carpet tape. Fingers-cross this wasn't a total waste!
Neat so then you lay the carbon fiber on the bottom of the plug?
Fascinating... I look forward to seeing how this plays out!
Stampie said:
Neat so then you lay the carbon fiber on the bottom of the plug?
Yup. That's the idea.
I'll smooth out the surface and seal it with gel coat first.
That is very cool! Want to come to Australia and make me a bonnet/hood? Nice work as always.
2Girlsracing (Steffi) said:
That is very cool! Want to come to Australia and make me a bonnet/hood? Nice work as always.
Ha ha! The joke's on you! My first attempt totally failed. The slats just straightened out overnight and all that good complex-curvature was gone. Would seem carpet tape was not the right tool for that job.
(Throws that mess away)
Here's attempt number two - foam slats laid out the same way with hot glue holding the sections together. This one will be a master-model first and a composite tool laid up on the roof.
In the "old dogs learn no new tricks" category, I used carpet tape to hold the foam up. Spoiler alert: the foam sagged!
Lesson learned: use carpet tape on berkeleying carpet. Not other stuff!
Quick and dirty solution: foam buttressing! This firmed things up enough to move on to the next step.
Check out that ghastly ripped up headliner. Just needs some clean-up and it's good to go...
This morning I've blown thru most of a gallon can of body filler leveling out the surface:
That's where it stands now. It's pretty close to being up to the right contour. I'll sand on it some more this afternoon, and add more filler where I need it.
Hi Stu or Scott.
Are You able to provide me the lenght and width of the framework? (Guides/slides)
I'm trying to replace my old leaking dual glass one with a sliding original, but struggle to find the right sizes.
Thanks in advance.
