Sorry no pics this time. Fuel pump is in and wired, car is back on its wheels, and harnesses are thinner out ready to be routed. I also mounted the Saab relay/fuse panel under the hood. Hopefully next weekend I can get more of the wiring sorted.
Sorry no pics this time. Fuel pump is in and wired, car is back on its wheels, and harnesses are thinner out ready to be routed. I also mounted the Saab relay/fuse panel under the hood. Hopefully next weekend I can get more of the wiring sorted.
great progress.
Sent you some money for that cap. Hope no one bought it first since I'm such an email slouch lol
2K4Kcsq wrote: Sent you some money for that cap. Hope no one bought it first since I'm such an email slouch lol
I emailed you back twice for your address.
Once again, 2 steps back and then back to where I was. I ended up having to pull the harness back out from the car. This time I attached the shielded cables for the crank trigger, cam signal, and 2 knock sensors. These cables are ready to plug into their respective sensors. It wasn't easy, but got them cut to length, and connected up. Once they were prepped with heat shrink, they were installed back into the old AC line separator and into the body gromet. Here are a couple pics, nothing much to look at though.
Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to get the MS harnesses squared away and who knows, maybe I'll be able to get the rest of the wiring done too...
Today I feel like I made some real progress! The PS is now pretty much done! The harness is setup, wrapped and connected. I also installed the fuel rail to add to the progress. Knowing that the injectors and rail are back in makes me really want to get pushing on it. Tomorrow I will be back at it! Hopefully get the DS done. Then it will be down to the new power system, and getting the megasquirt wiring integrated back into the chassis harness... FUN!
And here are a couple picks I took before lacking up for the day. Not great, and hard to see the harness being black, but you get the idea.
Oh, I also got the heater box installed and the MS mounted on it. Hopefully more to report tomorrow. :D
I was trolling your build hoping to find a plug wire solution. Have you found any DIY plug wire sets with the LS2 boots?
Great build thread! These old 5-cyl Audi motors always fascinate me 
In reply to Winston:
Thanks! I love the sound of the 10v engine.
I had surgery last Wednesday, so no progress this weekend. Hopefully next weekend it will be running again.
Closer and closer. Spark wires done, aux relay panel done, euro headlights wired and relayed, O2 wiring run and removed some more unused factory wiring. I still need to hook up the connector for the wiring running back into the cabin, but that's only 4 wires. The problem is I'm pretty much out of time, and the interior still need put back together. Looks like another year that the 80 will be back on the road right before the Carlisle.
Had some time to kill the other night, and I needed them, so I made up a pair of front gland nuts for my bilsteins. Came out pretty well I think.
This weekend will be a mad dash to get the 80 running and back on the road. If it doesn't happen this weekend, I don't see it making it to the Carlisle car show this year. Wish me luck!
If it weren't for the summer car shows I don't know how I would get so much done in the spring. Always good to have a set date to push towards. Good luck man, I know you got this. 
The 80 made it to and from Carlisle. Even in the rain, it was a good time. I love catching up with everyone, and actually getting to talk about these old cars. I didn't take any pics, but thanks to others, I have some. This one is thanks to a member from another forum!
The rain helps out with the ugliness...
I haven't done anything to it sense, but I need to figure out why the reverse lights arent working. I'm pretty sure I cut a wire I shouldn't have. Other than that, I need to figure out the dead timing of these deka injectors, and get to work tuning. The switch from batch to sequential has done some not so nice things to the fuel trims. For all I know, it could also have something to do with the 044 pump I installed. The OEM pump may have been dieing for longer than I thought.
Got the reverse lights figured out. After verifying I had 12v where I should, my friend plugged he connector back in, and they worked... I guess I didn't have the connector seated properly. One of those things that happens when you are in a hurry.
I guess I should update this. It's been a while, but not a lot of good has happened.
A little while ago, I caught a salvage yard driver trying to break into my car. I can only assume he intended to tow the thing away with his boom truck, which would have destroyed the transmission. When I walked up on him he was pounding the wedge into my window frame. He then proceeded to argue with me that it wasn't my car... what a piece of work! He only left after half my neighbors and the maintenance crew came out to see what I was yelling about(I wasn't quiet about it at all).
Not long after that I decided to register my tuner studio and try out the live analyzer, AKA- auto tune. It seemed to be working quite well on light load, engine running in vaccume, so I try boost. Did a 3rd gear pull from 2k-6k rpm and managed to blow the fuel rail off injector #1 & #2. Got it towed home, modified the mount, and was still blowing fuel from injector #1. Turns out I had sheared the viton o-ring, so I replaced the tops on all 5. Seems to be sealed up now, so we shall see.
Also, don't know if I mentioned this before, but my VDO boost gauge is showing 15psi when my MS is only seeing 9psi with the new map daddy sensor. I picked up an auto meter gauge to Put in it's place to see what it says.
Lots of little stupid crap going on... such is my life...
I had to use jumper wires on my map daddy because the landing pads on the 3.57 board came off during the switch. But it was hardly reading at all. I wonder if you have a small leak on your dedicated map hose to the ecu??
Also I was told I needed to get back to you on the water outlet for the back of the head. Message me what you want for it and we can figure out something. Hope you get the car sorted out soon though. . . Maybe in time to make the trip for battle born quattro?? 
I'm just going to put this here for now. 
Not much going on lately. It's been too hot and humid to do any real tuning on this. Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to really get this thing dialled in at spring pressure. Yesterday I got to play around a lite with the roof rack. I scored an amazing condition Thule 555 fairing on CL for $35! Trying to keep as period correct as I can on this car's accessories.
I then decided to see how much room was left when I have the bike rack on. Scored a new Thule 594XT sidearm for 1/2 price on eBay!
Loads of extra space up there!
One things for sure though, I'm glad my most of this bike is aluminum, could be a different story with a heavy all steal bike!
I'm looking for a Thule Alpine box to go with it. These cars have very small trunks, so extra storage is a must!
Now that the weather is down in a reasonable range, I have been able to drive this again. I took it to my dentist appointment, and to work last night. It is running very well, and the auto tune feature in tunerstudio is doing a great job of getting the fuel VE table into shape.
Now that I'm now worried about having flames spontaneously apearing from under the hood, I'm having fun driving it again!
Hopefully soon I'll be working with my tuner to get the N75 turned on, and start building a respectable level of boost...
Found this on CL and thought you might be interested: rally Audi
Consider my finder's fee to be a couple sets of wheels and tires 
In reply to ¯_(ツ)_/¯:
That is awesome! Hell, I even have the parts to fix the body in my parents basement! Too bad I've been banned from buying any more vehicles until I get my family in a house. 
It's been a while, but lately some work has been getting done, or at least redone.
Due to a software update "bug", my ISV was running at 75hz, which is way too low. That was why it was vibrating horribly, but still working. That was fixed by putting it back up to 1021hz, and all is quiet again.
Second we found what was up with the map sensor reading low. Turns out it was calibrated for a 3bar sensor, not the 4bar map-daddy sensor I have installed. This whole time I have been tuning to the wrong map sensor! It was crazy how much was changed due to this. The entire VE table and most of the timing table will need to be reworked. We couldn't understand why I was knocking at 9psi, but we understood better when we figured out that was because it was running the timing for 9psi, at an actual 12psi. It wasn't very happy.
Slowly but surely it is getting back into shape. Once it's close again, ill be changing the plugs and O2 sensor. I'm sure the sensor could stand to be replaced after the hell I have put it through in this whole process.
The fun never ends!
Started playing around with the HY35 I picked up a while ago. I tried to find the elusive non wastegate turbine housing, but no luck. So I decided to turn my internal WG housing into a non WG housing. I completely removed the flapper setup and plugged both holes. As normal, it was cracked.
I used a piece of 5/16" round stock for the lever arm hole, and machined up a plug to fit in the internal WG hole. I also machined a ring to cut up and fill in the area where the exhaust from the internal WG would normally mix with the turbine outlet. In case anyone was wondering, these turbine housings are made of cast iron, and not cast steel as stated on a lot of other forums.
Here you can see that I made the plug a little extra long. This was so I can grind it down to match better with the inlet of the housing.
Sorry, no after weld pics. I wanted to get it in the sand pit asap. I go back Tuesday night, hopefully it will have cooled off by then.
Got some more work done on the HY exhaust housing. I noticed what looked to be a separation between the cast iron, and the stainless sleeve that originally held the flapper rod. I filled the chamber with water, and put some air pressure to the outside. Had a nice stream of bubbles showed up in the housing. Instead of attempting to weld the stainless to the cast iron, I pressed out the plug, and threaded it for 5/8-18. Jambed a bolt in, and welded that in.
After it cooled off, I cleaned up the weld in in the downpipe area.
Now im considering machining it tapered to 2.75" from the 2.55" it is now.
I also opened up the plug I put in the WG hole. I matched it as close as I could without removing much from the original casting.
That's it for now, I need to machine the downpipe flange area, and decide if I want to open up the downpipe area after the turbine.
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