Finally got the HY all finished up. Time to send it out to get that header made.
Went a little heavy on the grinder though.
It does look much better without the giant bracket hanging off the side...
Finally got the HY all finished up. Time to send it out to get that header made.
Went a little heavy on the grinder though.
It does look much better without the giant bracket hanging off the side...
I know it has been a while, but not much to report. The car has been running pretty well. Well enough for me to get in and drive with little worry. I just hope it stays that way. Hopefully soon the new header and exhaust system will be done. Will be nice to have the holset installed for the Carlisle show this year.
With talking to my tuner, he has mentioned that the coolant temp sensor seemed to have a very consistent gap in it readings. It would read up to 45°F, then just straight to 90°F. I have checked the wiring multiple times, and found nothing wrong. The only thing I can come up with is the sensor has gone bad. I just ordered a new Bosch sensor, so hopefully that will take care of that.
Small update. With a new Bosch sensor installed, it was still not reading properly. Looking into the calibrations, I guess the switch to MS3X has messed with that too. Switching that back to the SAAB(Bosch) setting has put it perfectly in spec again. It also reads very smoothly from 14°-198°F. Also, now the fan turns on when that sensor shows 196° instead of it getting to 195° and hanging there for a while.
I also think I have the sync loss issue solved. Turns out the air gap on that sensor was too small. It was picking up the shallow gap in the "missing" tooth section. I backed it out about 1/2 a turn, and I can now move through the RPM range with ease.
With all that figured out, I was able to take it out for a run. Running 18psi on a K24 to 6200rpm was fun. Now I need to tune in the high boost areas, as it was around 11/1 AFR. Getting there though.
Cool car, and great writeup!
In reply to Sky_Render:
Thanks! This car has been a labor of love for the past number of years. The problem is parts are getting harder to find. That means I have to make, modify, or fix a lot more of them.
Yesterday I took a 3hr round trip drive to Pottstown PA. I didn't take the bandit, and that was a blessing, 422 is all torn up, so that would have been quite harsh on my spine. Anyways, I did said trip to go pick up another "era correct" accessory.
This is a "ski box", so it's 92" long! I got it for a great price, so it was worth it. I picked this up for one purpose. I'm planning a road trip to Massachusetts to get the bandit tuned, and pick up some parts. One of those parts being a 4KQ driveshaft. I have serious doubts that would fit in the car, so this will be perfect. My saying about it is... Is big, it's ugly, and it's era correct! I'll probably end up selling it after the trip just so I don't need to store it... Also, I'm looking into some sort of coil spacer for the rear springs. The rear sits about 1/4"-3/8" lower than the front. I want to get the fender gaps to be closer in size to each other for the trip. As it site now, the rear will rub if I hit a descent bump. Picking that up some would help tht a lot. Anyone have any experience with this?
Wow, it has been quite a while. I installed a new Weitech suspension, and now the car sits just a little higher, and much stiffer.
For the Carlisle show in May, I decided to to attend the abandoned turnpike bike ride in Breezewood PA. Put the bike on the roof rack, and hit the road towards Pittsburgh. The drive out in 90° heat went quite well. Cruising at 75mph, the engine is cranking at 3200rpm, and the temps were just a little higher than normal. All in all, not bad. Only problem I noticed is that I seemed to be leaking some oil from the rear diff.
The show went well with no real issues. I have tracked down the leak in the rear diff to the lock actuator seal boot. There is a small hole in it, and is no longer available to purchase. Should be interesting finding a way to fix this issue. On the drive to Breezewood, then Carlisle, then back home to York, I noticed that I could smell the poly of the motor mount melting again. This time it used the domed shield I made as a press, and I managed to loose close to 1/3 of the mount. I replaced that, and made up a shield similar to the B5 1.8t where you have to bend it out of the way to get to the mount. It completely blocks the mount from the manifold, turbo, and downpipe. Hopefully that takes care of that.
Now, on to present day. I am now running 20psi from my little K24, and it's pretty well maxed out. The AFR's look really good, and am now tweaking the timing. Little bit more power here and there is nice. I'm also noticing a 40°+ change in IAT's when doing a full throttle pull. I keep getting told that it's not that bad, but having 100°+ air crammed into the intake just bothers me. Probably should expose the rest of my intercooler. Around 1/3 of my intercooler is hidden behind the bumper in an effort to keep the car looking as factory as possible.
As for a totally different note, I have decided to change my engine again. This time I will be stepping up to the 24v VR6. I am in the process collecting the parts needed for a longitudinal VR6 swap. Unfortunately, most of the parts come from 034motorsports, so not exactly in the realm of cheap. Should be Intersting to know I can make 600hp+ just by changing which turbo I decide on.
Also, I need to change hosting sites. I refuse to pay photobucket what they want... Hopefully that will happen soon.
Went to do an oil change today, and it took much longer than I ever expected.
It finally happened! The plug would not move in the 7A pan. I was using a 6 point socket on it, and it stripped! I couldn't believe it! Had to put vise grips on it, and beat them with a hammer to finally come loose. I inspected the threads, and they look great, on both the plug and the pan. I was warned about this happening with the large thread aluminum pans though. I'm glad I had a spare plug in the tool box!
After that was all taken care of, I decided to finally take car of my now nearly completely red hood. I picked up a couple cans of black primer and semi gloss black paint. First, I had to strip all the old primer off. A 100 grit sanding sponge that that job very well
I then did the primer and paint. Came out pretty well for a non painter like myself. There is some tiger striping, but honestly, look at the rest of the car haha.
I'm happy with it. Looks much better than the burnt off black primer on a red hood. If I were to color sand it, and buff it some, it would probably look a lot better. Maybe later... this is how it looked when I got home, all unwrapped and parked...
With a huge thank you to Photoberkit, my pics now work again!
Car has been doing quite well, and is running better than ever! Because to this, I decided it was time to get some descent snow tires for this winter. Picked up a set of Nexen WinSpikes, I know not the best brand, vut the reviews they got were alost all 4 and 5 star, so figured I would give them a shot.
Here they are when I picked them up from a friend of mine, ready to be put on the car! Im kind of excited!
Now its all winter ready! This will make for some fun winter shenanigans!
Happy new year everyone!
well, for the first time in a long time, I have been driving the car in the winter. Due to this, there has been a lot of condensation build up in the breather line. This has turned into quite a bit of nasty oil foam. like this
Because of this, I have decided to build a pretty basic oil catch can setup. The tank was originally built with another purpose in mind, but with some modification, should work really well as a catch can.
I picked up some stainless scouring pads to use as a filter below the perforated plate. It will be safety wired to the plate to keep it in place.
Hopefully this will help keep the water and oil foam from getting into the intake track. I'll post pics when its installed. It is about 15 degrees outside, so probably wont be doing it today...
As my luck goes, this can is too tall would fit where I would like to out it. I need to shorten it by around 2" to make it fit. Time will tell how well it works.
I spent last weekend in New Milford CT at a friends place getting my 3" stainless exhaust built and installed. It went well, but fitting a 3" exhaust through an area that was designed for a 2.25' posed some interesting obstacles.
Here is the downpipe after welding on the wastegate recirc.
It was then wrapped and an air gap heat shield installed. Its pretty tight in there...
Here is the pipe from the down pipe to the rear sub frame. It uses a vibrant resonator and a borla straight through muffler. The trick was, we cut the muffler in half. It wouldn't fit where we wanted it to, so it was put in the chop saw and then recapped.
This is the over axle pipe. Turns out this short section of pipe was one of the hardest to make fit correctly. large pipe, not much space to work with.
And last but not least, the rear muffler. This is a magnaflow dual 2.5" in/out "X" muffler. He made a pretty awesome 3" to dual 2.5" pipe to use with it. A work of art!
Exhaust turned out amazing! Has a great tone, but not very loud! Here are a couple vids. Not very good, but it gives you an idea of how it sounds.
leaving from red light (turn the volume up)
Its pretty clear that he has gotten pretty darn good at the back purge tig welding. Here are pics of both sides of the hole saw "coin" taken out of the down pipe for the wastegate inlet.
What do you guys think?
Well, it's been a while. I managed to rack up a whole 2500 miles on the car last year. That's more miles in one year then the entire time the 10vt has been in the car! Exhaust sounds amazing, and I've been working with the launch control. So far it's not a fire breather, but it does make some serious pops and bangs.
Here is a video of the first go.
It was fun, but made way more boost than I wanted. I'm looking for about 10psi on the line, and it was making more than 18psi. The testing will continue.
I did it again... I have another turbo on the way. This time I will be putting it in! Anyways, it was listed as a Porsche upgrade, but the seller wasn't interested in giving any details. The only thing in the description was "excellent condition". It has obviously been heats cycled many times, as the turbine housing appears "peeled". That's ok though, I'll get it cleaned up and checked out. I can't find much in the brand though, ITS comes up as a turbo rebuilder in the UK. Anyone have any idea? I'm thinking To4 based.
A little more info of the turbo, from what I can find, it's a T58 from innovative turbo systems. Apparently they were a quite well respected brand in the early 2000's. It's a fairly large turbo, compressor wheel measures 76mm/57.8mm, and the turbine measures 70.78mm/61.5mm. this is stuffed in a replica Porsche #8 housing. This will probably be a big big for my little 2.2l 10v turbo, but we will see how it acts with new tube manifold being made for my setup.
Man, that's a huge turbo. Gonna be l a g g y !
That's the crazy part, it really doesn't look or feel "that big" when your holding it.
Neither does an RS2 turbo for the AAN's, but that combo yielded a large amount of lag.
Your not wrong, that's for sure. I figure with what I paid for it, I can sell it no issue to get my money back if I don't like it.
For comparison, here is the #8 turbine housing from this turbo with an Audi K26.
And this is the compressor housing with a Porsche K26/6.
It's been a while, but figured I would update. The new turbo has been cleaned up and made ready for install. I'm currently hording the parts needed for the upgrade. I'm looking at the OEM EvoX injectors. From what I can find, they are 650cfm @ 3bar, have a standard body length, and an extended tip. Oh, they can be had pretty cheap as well.
After having the new exhaust built, I thought I had taken care of my exhaust leaks. I thought it was the connection from the old downpipe to the cat delete pipe. Well, I was wrong! Turns out the manifold had developed another crack. When I first built the engine, I had welded up 2 very large cracks in it, and machined the head mount surface flat. Well, it seems to have popped the weld in the very tight spot between 2 runners. I purchased a later 2 piece manifold, and it was cracked just the same.
So after some back and forth with my exhaust guy, he said he would make up a SS stock placement manifold to go with the exhaust he made me and the new turbo. It should have better flow than either factory manifold, and better boost control with the way the WG port is plumbed. I'm attaching a pic of it mostly made. There will be another pipe running from the coloctor to the WG pipe. Should look and work quite well.
I know its been awhile but i had a similar problem with my IAT sensor last summer. it got oil in it and went bad causing it to jump between min/max temp readings and cause a nasty hiccup.
love the manifold. the only other thing i have to add is, dont go to the vr6 dark side! the 10v world is already too small!
In reply to 2K4Kcsq :
There have been quite a few issues I've had with IAT sensors in the past. With my on 2gnt dam, I would actually loose the thermistor completely. Now that I'm running a good sensor in a placement that doesn't get screaming hot, it has held up pretty well.
Don't worry about the VR6 thing... That was kind of a pipe dream as I just love how they sound. Maybe I'll just keep and eye out for another corrado SLC like I had when I was younger. Those are the fondest memories I have of that engine.
As for the manifold, I'm still waiting on it to be finished. I would love to have it ready and installed by mid May for the Carlisle show, but the guy making it is moving again, so things are on hold.
I may have the greatest neighbors ever! We are very much alike, and have no problem helping each other out when needed. He made this for me in his sign shop as a thank you!
So tomorrow the new tires for the bandit should be here! They are classified as an "all season," but with the very straight line tread, I don't see how! They will be mounted on the borbet's from the CQ, and the CQ will be getting the Cab/80 comp wheels.
I probably shouldn't be this excited, but the summer tires I have are more than 10 years old, so I've been kind of babying them...
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