my 1932 datsun replica build

I just ordered my brake pedal setup and a brake system kit

I have to ask. Why did you order a brake kit with a proportioning valve and a balance bar pedal kit? If you have a balance bar, the proportioning valve isn't necessary. Unless there is another reason?

BTW, I see you chose to order from Speedway. Good choice I think.

You're right; I probably won't need the proportioning valve. There were two reasons for buying the kit:

1) I will need the other components, and I'm pretty sure that buying them individually would have cost more than the kit (I'll admit that I didn't add it all up, but after pricing the necessary reserve pressure valves it was clear that buying each connector and valve individually would nickle and dime me badly)

2) The kit is all stuff designed to fit together. If I order all the components individually, there's a risk that I won't remember to check the connections and will get parts that don't match up....or need adapters to do so (more points of failure and weight)

(...and there's also the possibility that I WILL use the valve, but only as a trigger for the brake lights)

edit: I should have said "light"....there's only one

The pedal and brake bits came today while I was at work.

finally working in the garage. I should be mowing or grading papers, but I'm trying to figure out how to mount the wilwood reverse swing brake pedal. I need to make a way of testing different pedal height/distance combinations so dad can let me know what works for him.

already cut away the bits of the firewall that were there to hold the datsun 910 pedals in place. Here's a before shot

cut/drilled/trimmed/shaped the angle iron for the lower mount holes on the brake assembly. Now I need to do the upper ones.

bad tack welds broke. increased current to get better penetration, rewelded.

didn't like it...will probably cut it apart and try again tomorrow.

BTW, the avocado scourge continues. I took this a few days ago

OK, I cut it apart, and was able to salvage the two pieces that needed the most shaping, thus saving some time. I cut new angle iron sides, a new top, and drilled the three mounting holes in the top.

Then I turned the current on the welder up even higher, reduced the wire speed, and put it all back together.

This will let me mount move the pedal assembly up/down, left/right/ or forward/back until we find a position for the brake that dad thinks will allow him to drive the car.

OK, Dad just left. The current pedal position works for him. I need to tack everything into place and then think about how to make it permanent.

mildly depressed. I just cut away some metal that was obstructing movement of the brake pedal, and that's when I saw how VERY far into the engine bay the pedal will move.....we're talking more than 5" past where I wanted the firewall to be. photos later

It will probably look awkward and ugly to make the firewall that assymetrical, with the driver's side extending forward so far. I'm also 90% sure that I'll need to make a new exhaust because it exits on the driver's side, and probably won't fit after that pedal box is fabricated and installed.

Joey,

It's been a while since I had a look at this build but it looks like you're making good progress.

In regards to your pedal issue, I've never put my hands on the Datsun you're copying but considering it's a Japanese copy of an Austin, I'd bet dollars to donuts that it had floor-swung pedals.

That's probably why your pedal ends up in the engine bay.

The pedals on early cars are generally pivoted off of a crossmember just below the driver's seat, this makes them move forward and down so the pedal ends up almost flush to the floor.

I hate to say it after you purchased that really nice Wilwood setup but a Model A crossmemeber and pedal mount assembly would probably solve your problems.

Shawn

Also, a "special" is the UK term for what would be a "speedster" in the USA.

Generally, remove all the bits that don't make it go, turn and stop. Fabricate new body if necessary.

Shawn

You'll always regret having a good looking car that you hate to drive.

Hey guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

Trans_Maro wrote: In regards to your pedal issue, I've never put my hands on the Datsun you're copying but considering it's a Japanese copy of an Austin, I'd bet dollars to donuts that it had floor-swung pedals.

What's strange is that I knew about crossmember mounted pedals, but I always thought of them as being more of a hot-rodded thing.....and the only car I'd ever sat in that I'd noticed that style of pedal setup had slits in the firewall to allow movement of the pedal swing arm.

It honestly never occurred to me that this could be the stock setup.....the slits in the firewall just seemed so....odd

Trans_Maro wrote: I hate to say it after you purchased that really nice Wilwood setup but a Model A crossmemeber and pedal mount assembly would probably solve your problems. Shawn

I know that wilwood also makes floor/crossmember mounted pedals. I'll go look to see if I can find something that looks promising

wheels777 wrote: You'll always regret having a good looking car that you hate to drive.

The old pedal position was fine for me, but Dad would not have been able to drive it. My primary goal on this has just been to see if I can fabricate a car, but one of the secondary goals all along has been to make it something that dad can drive. I'd really like for him to be able to get in it and autocross it occasionally. The smaller wheel and the pedal change were both partially due to trying to meet that need.

I guess the short version of what I'm rambling about is that you're right.....I'd hate to have a pretty car that we cannot both drive.

Wilwood has this: I'll have to think about how to mount that.....I'm not sure if I could make it work.

You'll be in the same boat with the wilwood floor mounted pedals, they push forward, not down.

Look at the arc that the pedal will follow in the first example you posted.

In that picture, the pedal arm is way up, they usually start at a 45 degree angle or so and move down from there, the pedal stop is the toeboard so whatever angle the toeboard starts at, that's where the pedal starts.

Here's a '32 Ford pedal assembly:

See how long the arms are?

Here it is in a car, look at where the pedals come through the floor. Because of the arc on the pedal arm, it will not intrude into the engine bay at all when the pedal swings:

If you're not set on a balance bar setup, you could use this setup from Speedway. It's suppose to mount straight to the firewall, but it's for a single master cylinder. I'm thinking of using it on my speedster build.

That has an extra pedal. (I'm using the autotragic transmission from the 910 donor to save costs.) The thing that's causing the problems is my secondary design goal.

Primary: build a car from scratch.
Secondary: make it something that my dad and I can both drive and even occasionally autocross.

Dad's arthritis has gotten worse during the seven years(!!!!) that I've been working on the car. He now drives in a position with the seat far back and his legs nearly straight because bending the knees is painful. Worse, I screwed up and made the cockpit a bit smaller than I had originally planned. The car is fine for me (...and could even have been made a little smaller so it would be closer to the size of the real datsun Type 11) but it is too small for him.

Dad's preferred pedal position is basically already at the firewall. when the pedal is depressed, it will be in the engine bay. I'm not sure that changing pedals can change that in any way.

Today I changed started adding bracing to the pedal bracket to stiffen it up. It is similar to what nocones recommended. I'll post photos later.

Pedal bracket done. Dad came over and tried it....that location still works (i.e. I didn't mess it up.) We discussed how to set up the gas pedal. I'll use the existing 910 pedal, but will need to modify it above and below the hinge to create some extra space.

Time to quit for the night. I started on - and messed up - the bracket for the gas pedal. I'm too tired to be making stuff. (I tend to make lots of mistakes when I'm tired.)

Took gertrude out for a drive, then started over. This time I did it right; i.e. drill the critically spaced holes BEFORE trimming and shaping the angle iron into the desired length and shape. now the screws for the pedal can go to the threaded holes from the original firewall

JoeyM wrote: You're right; I probably won't need the proportioning valve.

I think you ~do~ need a proportioning valve.

The balance bar will help you fine-tune the brakes front-to-rear, but the proportioning valve will help limit pressure to the rear under heavy braking when all the weight transfers to the front. I think this is a safer way for a street-car to go (and probably not a bad idea for a race car).

I have both a balance bar and a proportioning valve on my Locost, and I would do the same again.

SkinnyG wrote:

JoeyM wrote: You're right; I probably won't need the proportioning valve.

I think you ~do~ need a proportioning valve. The balance bar will help you fine-tune the brakes front-to-rear, but the proportioning valve will help limit pressure to the rear under heavy braking when all the weight transfers to the front. I think this is a safer way for a street-car to go (and probably not a bad idea for a race car). I have both a balance bar and a proportioning valve on my Locost, and I would do the same again.

Hurray! I may have done something right for a change!

(thanks for the vote of confidence)

910 gas pedal with the arm (5/16") notched and bent straight ...and then welded it back together.

I've notched it that way in two other spots; at the top of the pedal (to adjust pedal angle) and above the mount, so I can angle the top of the pedal away from the brake pedal so they won't interfere with each other.