Apexcarver said:What psi is your fuel pump putting out?
I could probably throw a pressure gauge like this in.
Am I correct to assume that the best spot would be after the fuel filter?
Apexcarver said:What psi is your fuel pump putting out?
I could probably throw a pressure gauge like this in.
Am I correct to assume that the best spot would be after the fuel filter?
eastsideTim said:In reply to JoeyM :
It might be cheaper to switch to a different pump. Mr. Gasket 42S puts out the right pressure for SU carbs, I think.
Ooh, you're right. Summit has that pump for $45
In reply to JoeyM :
Yup, that's it. I keep one around as a spare in case my Beetle's mechanical pump fails.
Yup, might be best to change the pump. Though, the holley you linked says it has an adjustable regulator built in, so if you have access to a gauge...
I would still go ahead and put new valves on the float bowls. Su's (or at least the HS2s on mine) are not complex carbs. Easy to work on.
Aaarrgggh! I just figured out that most of the folks using the phrase "needle and seat" are talking about the stuff the float closes when it rises up in the bowl (stuff in the red area).
They are not talking about the tapered needle that controls how much fuel is available to mix with the incoming air. (Stuff in the green area)
Yeah, I avoided calling them needles because of possible confusion with that... Metering needles rarely wear out.
I ordered this book on datsun SU carbs.
I will probably get some others, also, since I've never messed with carburetors before.
While I'm waiting on that book to arrive, I might as well go back to working on something else. Spent the day trying to finish the stand for the seat that will let me mount it in the chassis.
Last upright piece tacked in place.
The finished piece, all the tubes capped, all the seams welded, most seams ground smooth
Rattle canned brown to protect from rust
Ok, I got my second covid shot, put the passenger seat back in, figured out where to put the weld in tab for the lap belt, and pulled the driver's seat. Then I tacked in little plates to cap the ends of the tubes that make up the seat adapter.
I planned to do more, but I stopped when I got sleepy. Imagine that.
Feeling achy and tired. It was all I could do to record a lecture for class. I didn't make it out to the garage to do anything.
I was a automotive carb noob too when I started on the Bugeye, SUs are dead simple. Vacuum makes the needle go up and allow more fuel. Jet height is used to adjust rich/lean at the bottom of the carb. There is a nifty little bumper that helps tell you when it's right.
Watch for vacuum leaks around throttle blade shaft, might have to drill out and bush if it's worn out.
Apexcarver said:I was a automotive carb noob too when I started on the Bugeye, SUs are dead simple.
I hope so.
Yesterday she had no throttle response, so I filled the carbs with dashpot oil, then arranged magical spell books around them to cast an aura of functionality.
I only ran her briefly after that, but she was much better behaved
... that's not to say everything went swimmingly. Early on, one of the bolts mounting the seat adapter to the chassis seized. I pushed, felt it bend, and stopped. I didn't want to have it break and then need to drill it out. After applying 3-in-1 oil and letting it sit for 30 minutes, I was able to extract the pesky bent bolt.
The rest of the day had lots of welding seams and grinding, but the driver's side seat adapter is done.
This time I marked the front of the adapter.
Once both seats are in, then I need to put the harnesses in. That means welding tabs to the chassis to mount the lap belts. I have extra tabs, so I went ahead and welded one to the same tubing that is in the chassis, just to check my settings on the welder.
Put it in a vice and wail on with a hammer!
Apexcarver said:Put it in a vice and wail on with a hammer!
I probably should have, but the current on the machine is already all the way up as high as it will go, so there's not much I could do* to get it hotter and get deeper penetration, so I just went with it.
I dislike vertical/near vertical welding because of ugly drips. This time I kept the wire feed turned down so try the volume of molten metal was reduced to prevent runs.
* - Obviously, I could have switched to thicker wire for the thicker material.
Apexcarver said:Put it in a vice and wail on with a hammer!
Application of sledgehammer causes deformation of Base metal. No apparent effect on tab that is being beaten
Yes, I should have done that before, but I just found my sledgehammer.
Totally worth it for confidence, especially when you have a sample just begging for it like that!
Forgive me, I'm a engineer who works on safety stuff, lol.
Apexcarver said:Totally worth it for confidence, especially when you have a sample just begging for it like that!
Forgive me, I'm a engineer who works on safety stuff, lol.
No, it was good advice. I value and appreciate your input.
My tabs on the chassis were welded on with the same settings (i.e. current as high as possible to maximize penetration, wire feed low to reduce the size of the pool of molten metal, thus minimizing drips) so I am comfortable that they will be safe mounting points for the harness.
My battery is located behind the passenger seat, and doesn't have a battery restraint (the Geo tracker seats I was using were narrower and their rails kept the battery from moving around.) The new wider seats allow the battery to move, so eventually I would need to build a way to hold it in place. Since that would require pulling the passenger seat back out, and pulling the seats out is a pain in the butt, I decided to build the battery restraint system now. I still need to build the top, but here is the bottom.
Is held in by three 1/4 inch rivnuts, two set into chassis tubes, one into sheet metal
In reply to JoeyM :
I had to re read that. I read 3/4 rivnuts, not 3, 1/4 inch!!!
03Panther said:In reply to JoeyM :
I had to re read that. I read 3/4 rivnuts, not 3, 1/4 inch!!!
not your fault, mine. I just edited to use the fraction 1/4 for reading clarity.
BTW, I'm getting used to having a set of metric drill bits for setting rivnuts
JoeyM said:03Panther said:In reply to JoeyM :
I had to re read that. I read 3/4 rivnuts, not 3, 1/4 inch!!!
not your fault, mine. I just edited to use the fraction 1/4 for reading clarity.
BTW, I'm getting used to having a set of metric drill bits for setting rivnuts
Wasn't complaining...I was laughing!
I've never used the rivnuts, although I'm familiar with; why metric?
In reply to 03Panther :
These rivnuts say you can use a 9mm (0.354") or 3/8 (0.375") bit to make the hole. I'm guessing that the smaller hole will be stronger. I have a metric set just for that.
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