My god, what have I done?

AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:

engiekev said:

Turbo looks fine for a challenge build!  Once you get it running if there is excessive oil consumption or smoke, odd noises from the turbo, then take a second look.  However smoke and oil consumption can come from other install issues like oil feed location and proper oil drain.

 

 

The PO did say the oil feed location was wrong and too high pressure.  

I guess that's not surprising since it's fed right off the oil pump lol. Did you mention something about relocating it to the head?

You could relocate to the head, or use a oil feed restrictor specifically for ball bearing turbos like this. You would want the black filter I believe.

http://www.forcedperformance.net/fp-4-an-inline-filter-214.html

Cheaper method is to relocate to the head, if you do that you need to plug where the turbo feed is coming from the oil filter housing.  Since it's a banjo fitting to the head, you would need a oil line like this or a banjo adapter to -4AN (or whatever size your current feed hose is):

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Oil-Feedline-Kit-Head-Location-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html

In reply to engiekev :

I think I already have an oil line like the 2nd link. I'll try to remember to look tonight. 
 

What's the best way to plug the port in the oil filter housing, just a brass plug & Teflon tape?

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to engiekev :

I think I already have an oil line like the 2nd link. I'll try to remember to look tonight. 
 

What's the best way to plug the port in the oil filter housing, just a brass plug & Teflon tape?

Yes you have a braided line and banjo fitting to do this.  

engiekev said:

You could relocate to the head, or use a oil feed restrictor specifically for ball bearing turbos like this. You would want the black filter I believe.

http://www.forcedperformance.net/fp-4-an-inline-filter-214.html

Cheaper method is to relocate to the head, if you do that you need to plug where the turbo feed is coming from the oil filter housing.  Since it's a banjo fitting to the head, you would need a oil line like this or a banjo adapter to -4AN (or whatever size your current feed hose is):

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Oil-Feedline-Kit-Head-Location-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html

Are they anything more than a small hole in an oil fitting though? Seems like you could diy pretty easy. Or even if you needed to get a steel ball bearing and a spring screwed in between two brass fittings that seems doable too.

At the rate this is going I'm not sure I'll get it painted this weekend lol. Progress is progress though. 
 

Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:

engiekev said:

You could relocate to the head, or use a oil feed restrictor specifically for ball bearing turbos like this. You would want the black filter I believe.

http://www.forcedperformance.net/fp-4-an-inline-filter-214.html

Cheaper method is to relocate to the head, if you do that you need to plug where the turbo feed is coming from the oil filter housing.  Since it's a banjo fitting to the head, you would need a oil line like this or a banjo adapter to -4AN (or whatever size your current feed hose is):

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Oil-Feedline-Kit-Head-Location-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html

Are they anything more than a small hole in an oil fitting though? Seems like you could diy pretty easy. Or even if you needed to get a steel ball bearing and a spring screwed in between two brass fittings that seems doable too.

Yes you could also buy a cheaper version with just the oil restrictor without the filter like this, not something I would try to DIY since its pretty critical component and really just a plumbing fitting (this is an example, not necessarily what would work in your application):

http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=91

If you already have the head line, go that route for sure!

To plug the hole, this is the OEM part. For true GRM challenge fashion, you could probably order elsewhere just a 3/8 BSPT allen plug or find a used one on DSM Classifieds (maybe even free!). I might have a spare one

https://stmtuned.com/collections/1g-2g-dsm-eclipse-talon-laser-4g63-engine-oil-pump-front-case-oil-filter/products/bspt-3-8-plug-oem-mitsubishi

Those turbonetics manifolds are getting hard to find, pretty old school DSM stuff which really fits the car!

In reply to engiekev :

Hell, I may have one of those plugs too. If not in the DSM stuff, then leftover/salvaged from years prior. 

I finally got the VHT on the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately my heat gun barely got it up to 200*, while the instructions say to start at 250* and go up. So I'll just have to be careful with it & follow their instructions for baking it on the car.

I got the new seals installed in the transfer case later in the day. My daughter's BF is going to help me wheel & lift it into place tomorrow. He's not really had any automotive exposure beyond driving, but he seems genuinely interested in learning. 

I also did some more cleaning & prep on the intake manifold & installed the intake cam - that should make Stampie happy.

I kept our old electric oven for this exact reason. 

In reply to John Brown (Forum Supporter) :

Oh I've been watching Marketplace & craigslist for a couple weeks, but haven't seen any cheap/free ones. I'm sure about 2-hours after I bolt it onto the car there will be one set out on the curb nearby. 

I was too tired to post an update last night, but here's where I am after tonight:

• Transfer case installed
• Cams installed
• CAS installed
• intake manifold/TB installed
• Thermostat housing installed & heater hoses connected
• Exhaust manifold installed

I still need to finish bolting up the exhaust, complete the turbo oil line relocation, and install the timing belt. And of course a long list of other things - like tidying up the wiring & connecting all of it & the coolant/vacuum lines, etc.

That's looking close.  I'm excited.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Thanks, but looks can be deceiving. I probably have 2 more weeks before I'm ready to push it outside & try to start it. 

When you get to the timing belt, these kits are extremely helpful and almost necessary (the bolt is at least):

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Extreme-PSI-Timing-Belt-Tool-Kit-4G63T-DSM-and-EVO-1-9-NEW.html

Well worth the cost for this whole kit.

In reply to engiekev :

I thought the long tensioner tool was only for the balance shafts?

All those tools are used in timing belt installation, balance shaft or not.

The "long bolt" tool is used to push on the lever arm that connects to the auto-tensioner, and is needed to set the pin in the auto tensioner before the belt is installed.

The  "preload eccentric pulley tool" is used to set the belt tension by rotating the tensioner pulley.  Once that is set, the "long bolt" is removed and the auto tensioner pin is removed.

The cam gear insert just helps hold the cam gears in position with the timing marks aligned, as opposed to using two wrenches:

The balance shaft belt is just tensioned by rotating the balance shaft tensioner pulley, none of these tools are used there.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

In reply to engiekev :

Oh I have the tensioner off & a paperclip inserted to hold it in place. The balance shafts are gone, so no worries about those. I was reading about tensioning the pulley, iirc it's ~14lbs of torque or something relatively low? I can get pretty close to that with my snap-ring pliers. 

Cool project!  I don't know anything about DSMs, but I've always liked them and been impressed with their potential! 

In reply to mkZero :

Thanks! I'm pretty much the same way, I'm just hoping I can get it together - and keep it together - until after the Challenge. 

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to mkZero :

Thanks! I'm pretty much the same way, I'm just hoping I can get it together - and keep it together - until after the Challenge. 

sell??? continue mods unencumbered by 'challenge' contraits($$$$$)...Trade Stampie for the uh uh "frankenvair" thingy from Patrick ....none of the above???

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

Not sure yet, and not even sure if I can/should keep both the DSM & the Miata - I really don't have room for them, especially if I ever intend to drive them. 
 

I absolutely love the way the Miata drives, and it makes a decent spare car. Functioning a/c may improve that. However, the Miata a/c is barely adequate at best, so I'm not sure it's worth the time & effort to fix it.

The DSM is really already at the "racecar" stage, and trying to make it more civil would be foolish. But I think I may end up enjoying autocrossing it more, although I don't expect it to be any more competitive than the Miata(which isn't very competitive now). 
 

Time will tell, and fortunately there's no urgency to make a decision. 

No pics, but I got the oil lines for the turbo & pressure gauge finished tonight, got the exhaust all buttoned up, installed the fuel rail & got it wired, as well as everything else on its harness. 
 

That takes care of all the wiring & plumbing on the driver's side that I can do until I get the timing belt on, but I might as well do the p/s pump mod first, as I won't be able to install the accessory belts until that's done.

I may go ahead & tidy up the wiring & plumbing along the passenger side as much as I can, so it'll all be ready whenever I get to the intake & cooling plumbing. 

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to engiekev :

Oh I have the tensioner off & a paperclip inserted to hold it in place. The balance shafts are gone, so no worries about those. I was reading about tensioning the pulley, iirc it's ~14lbs of torque or something relatively low? I can get pretty close to that with my snap-ring pliers. 

You would still need the "long bolt" tool to depress the tensioner arm to push the tensioner in to then remove the paperclip once the belt is on.  Otherwise you'd have to remove the tensioner pin before torquing the tensioner pulley, which I don't think is the right process since the tensioner would not be set correctly.  The tensioner needs to be released only after the tensioner pulley is torqued.

The VFAQ lists out all the torques needed, for the tensioner pulley it's 36 ftlbs WHILE the tensioner pulley is being pushed at 24 in-lbs with the tensioner pulley tool.  It's kind of a tricky process, but you definitely want to get that part right or the belt will be too loose (auto tensioner is only meant to pickup slack of an aging belt, NOT slack of a new belt install), or too tight (causes other issues).

Good video here too of the process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VIubwSxytk

JafroMobile has some of the most thorough 4g63 videos out there as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN7TOVrkUNQ

Following from afar.  It just might be a fairly competitive car when finished.  Back on page 2, the enviro-debris covered picture reminded me of the Vette.  It brought me a smile.  Keep plugging, you'll have it running soon.