S, "sense" can be jumpered directly to the charge wire running to battery +, or run directly to the battery positive terminal (helps if the charge wire is undersized/too long), no need to switch it, no harm either though. The "field" wire (I guess they call it "I") should be on switched 12v, running through the idiot lamp (in series).
Got it.
The field wire is going through the idiot light (just checked) so all should be good. I'm pretty sure the Sense line was already there from the original alternator so I just hooked it right on up.
So if we have "Sense", "field", and "Charge". What is "L"?
I thought L went to the switched 12v based on an article I read on the interwebz (from a 4x4 forum). Guess I learned my lesson on that one 
I thought L (lamp?) was another name for the "field" wire. Everything internally regulated that I've encountered is like that, charge, sense, field. Or just charge and field (sense internally connected), or just charge with the "one wire" units. On a delco 10/12si it's usually labeled 1 and 2, 1 is field, 2 is sense.
EDIt, or are we talking about one of these newer "CS series" alternators? Image found with my allegedly above average google skills.
In which case the field wire appears to be an actual field wire for "smart charging" functions, or perhaps just diagnostics, and should apparently be left disconnected if it is to be used as a dumb alternator.
Bill, I admire and envy your mechanical abilities.
Kenny: I'm going to take that picture and my multi-meter and see what I can see. Thanks!
Sky: Thanks! I've gotta be honest, I think this thread would be a lot less entertaining if I had the surplus of funds I thought I'd have when I was planning all this 
Window day! 
So it goes like this:
Ta-da!
Well actually there was a brief pause in the middle there to clean out a perpetual lake of broken glass.
I figure with the weight reduction from cleaning out the door I'll gain like 20 MPGs
and there was another brief intermission while I had to rob the new door of a bracket that rusted itself apart in the old door. (I hope my cousin's husband doesn't mind. If he does I'll grab another from the junk yard or something )
All in all a successful day at the office.
With the added caveat that I decided to put a vacuum gauge on my intake manifold again. My intent was to play with the idle mixture screw to find the point where it pulls the most vacuum. I hear that's how you're supposed to do things, but alas no turning of that screw had any steady effect on my carburetor.
I've seen this before. It took me YEARS to find out what was wrong. In fact this is the exact issue I've been chasing on my Impala since I bought it almost 4 years ago!!!
The Toyota taught me how to fix the Impala though. Someone plugged the Toyota's PCV into the intake manifold (me) and immediately realized he was an idiot. While it was running (poorly) he moved the Toyota's PCV hose to the air cleaner port and ta-da! everything was smooth.
So after 4-years of driving the Impala and adjusting points, adjusting valves, playing with mixture screws, cleaning K&N filters, and even once replacing the ignition coil I finally realized that "holy crap"! My impala's PCV line is plugged into the intake manifold! (apparently the Hungarian who owned it before me likes to make the same mistakes I do)
I digress: I immediately realize I'm looking at a vacuum leak. I cap the intake to the first vac advance canister and "BOOM!" the vac shoots right into the green. Apparently I blew the diaphragm some time over these last couple of... wow, is it "months" now? Awesome!
I suck on the hose and it offers no resistance. I'll just cap and plug it until I can source a new canister. The ported line to the vac advance canister is good so I shouldn't see any difference. Plenty of people don't even run the manifold line with the Weber carbs.
Fix something, break something.
Oh, and I never did get to replacing that power steering pump seal. I checked my coin tray, and it's not there. I'm hoping it didn't get stolen during the last break in 
That would make me a little irritated...
I'll have to dig through the garage tomorrow and see if I put it on the shelf or something.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: I thought L (lamp?) was another name for the "field" wire. Everything internally regulated that I've encountered is like that, charge, sense, field. Or just charge and field (sense internally connected), or just charge with the "one wire" units. On a delco 10/12si it's usually labeled 1 and 2, 1 is field, 2 is sense. EDIt, or are we talking about one of these newer "CS series" alternators? Image found with my allegedly above average google skills.
ooooooook.
Looks like I should have found this picture YEARS ago. My wiring scheme is nowhere near what this diagram is showing.
I have:
a red wire coming from the truck to the "sensor" terminal
a Yellow wire from the truck that goes to "Field"
the switched 12v line that I installed and removed whet to "Regulator"
Unfortunately I didn't bring what I need to do a proper electrical repair with me today, so that's going to have to wait until tomorrow. For now it's charging fine so I'm going to leave it as it is until I can do it properly.
Thanks Kenny!
Enfield gone and $250 in my pocket. Lucky for me the gun shop is near a junkyard in Auburn where they have a small handful of Toyotas.
$25 @ the yard
Gear shifter knob (from a 92 4-runner)
window trim (lack thereof is why the P.O broke the window when he slammed the door)
Tools to lower the spare tire (my tool kit was gone)
Passenger side corner amber light from a 2wd pickup
heater display panel
For $100.03 at Oreilleys I got
Sector shaft seal again (to stop the power steering leak) It turns out that my last seal was stolen after all.
big jug of 10w-30 (Quaker bake) for the upcoming oil change and head re-torque in just about 300miles
power steering fluid
Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator
heater resistor pack
Can you believe the junkyard had NO resistor packs for the heater? It also had no center consoles for 85-88 4-runners (for my cousin's husband). The corner light I got was the only one they had. Slim pickins I tell ya.
I checked a vac advance canister at the scrap yard, but it was "free flowing" on the canister that checked bad on mine too. The thought had crossed my mind to grab a 22RE distributor and make good use of this MS3 I have laying around 
but alas... I didn't. Maybe next time (or when I win the lotto).
When I got home I checked the reviews of the Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator VS the Holley one in my Amazon cart and lemme tell ya! The spectre had 67% 1 or 2 star reviews saying it leaks or just flat out doesn't work. The Holley had 73% 4 or 5 star reviews. oops
So that'll be going back to Oreilleys, I'll deposit the money and order a Holley online (along with that fast idle control rod).
Good times
I did however NOT get a radio antenna, there were no good dampers, I briefly considered grabbing a complete solid axle out from under what looked to be an '81 but figured I didn't have time, and did not see any battery trays or hold downs.... Probably tossed when the yard pulled the batteries. I wonder if there's a junkyard specializing in Toyotas around here? Maybe "carpart.com"?
yeah those little dial pressure regulators are lame.
holley ones are where it's at, they just work. i have an old one i'd send your way but i don't trust it, looks pretty beat but the goofy thing probably would still work fine.
Hey, if you wouldn't mind parting with it I'd gladly send some beer money your way for the chance to try it out. "Old but somehow still working" seems to be the name of this build's game
Just got a text:
"There's a curb alert on craigslist not 3-blocks from your house. It's a 'bar'. Can you check it out?"
I'm off work in 1 minute. Of COURSE I can
Achievement Unlocked: Midnight freebie grab 
Grabbed the bar (not in bad shape!) and they had a dresser. I figured "why not grab that too?"
So I did
Then I couldn't just leave those two random boxes there on the curb with crap in them could I? I mean I hate it when I leave stuff out for people to grab and they leave me with a mess.
So I got those too
The bar was home built, but pretty well done. It had a tear in the top (probably from storage), but it went to a good home. The dresser was "meh" so Mrs. Hungary and I put it out on our own curb (where it lasted maybe an hour). The random two boxes? they had:
two pictures of Martinis
two wire baskets
a bag of bra's.
Everything is gone except the bag of bra's... I hope someone grabs that soon. You know... before I get any ideas that's going to get me in trouble with Mrs. Hungary or the law.
Good times
Pics or ban!!!
Wait. Maybe not. Really don't want to see you in a used bra.
Ain't having a truck to grab free random useless crap great?
How to change a Sector shaft seal in a 1987 Toyota 4x4. By Hungary Bill
1) find out your seal is leaking. See that little drip there? don't be fooled. this thing pisses fluid like a beer-filled college student.
2) Borrow a Pitman arm puller from your local Oreilleys.
3) Remove nut and lock-washer and attach Pitman arm puller on your Pitman arm. Tighten the puller until that puppy is TIGHT! Keep tightening that beast until you're sure that by now you've put waaaaaay too much pressure on it and it's going to break. Now start whacking the side of the Pitman arm with whatever you have handy.
4) try prying a bit between the arm and the shaft housing with the flat side of wrenches, crow bars, etc. You should probably tighten that Pitman arm puller a little more just to be safe. Do so by bracing your foot against the passenger tire, and PUSH while PULLING with both rag-wrapped hands. Be sure to wince and look in a safe direction to give yourself that false sense of security that you'll save your pretty face if this thing decides to pop off right now.
5) whack that Pitman arm bit more, but this time do it for release of anger. Not so much with the idea that it's going to help anything.
6) go inside the truck and turn the key to release the column lock on the steering wheel. Turn the wheel side to side slightly and listen for the "POW" that sounds a lot like a gunshot! Leave any notion that you're going to get your deposit back from Oreilley's here.
7) find a couple screws (I found one holding the corner light bulb holder in its housing)
8) Screw in screws until you feel them bite the seal, then start pulling on them with anything handy (vice grips, channel locks, robo-grips, tweezers). Don't worry if it's not working. Your sole goal here is to slip off the screw and smash your elbow on the ground.
gooooooood
9) get a very small, and very long, flat-head screw driver and start prying at that seal until it comes out. This should take no less than 4 hours. Get creative using the screwdriver as a removal tool by twisting it in such a fashion that there is MUCH friction between it and the seal, but not so much that there is any friction between the seal and the housing. Pull 1mm, go 180-deg off and do the same. Repeat 100 times. Be sure to accidentally push the seal back in on accident a few times with the screwdriver.
10) insert new seal using a combination of sockets, closed ended combination wrenches (30mm), allen key heads, that same screwdriver, hammer, etc.
11) check if leak persists by starting the engine and turning the wheel side to side a few times.
12) when you are sure it is "dry as a bone" be sure to tell all your friends.
Celebrate
13) Check under the truck the next day to see that a small leak still exists.
Job complete. Well done
Meh, good enough for government work. I'll probably get a small piece of tubing to set that seal in there a bit better though. I think some PVC pipe I have laying around should to it.
Good times!
Dusterbd13 wrote: Pics or ban!!! Wait. Maybe not. Really don't want to see you in a used bra. Ain't having a truck to grab free random useless crap great?
I'm tellin ya! I stopped to get gas on my way in to work and got a call from someone who saw a computer desk on their drive to the theater. Had I not been running behind I would have had that too
Shoot, enough free stuff and I could have a yard sale to help pay for truck parts.
Do you just need the antena or the cable too?
just the antenna really. the base of the one i have is too thick to screw into the mount. unfortunately i got called away for work but i'm making tons of overtime!
duster: went to check on the curb before i left... only the bag of bras was gone. hopefully they're being used in a way the mfgr intended.
mobile typing is soooooo slow! how do people surf the net like this!?!
I'm Back! (applause)
Time to pick up where I last left off: The stuff from the junk yard. It's kind of pic heavy so I'll probably do a lot of little posts instead of one big one.
(TLDR version is: lots of little jobs. Nothing important)
Job 1: corner light replacement
Boom baby! The corner light in question came from a 2wd pickup of similar vintage (maybe a little older). If you look in my "sector shaft" post, that screw that I used came from this little baby. You can even see the BFW I was using to whack the pitman arm still laying on the ground.
You'll probably hear it again but: Pickins were pretty slim in the yard that day, so decided to make do with anything I could get my hands on
Here's some damage I didn't cause. You're looking at the heater control panel, not the missing ashtray, cigarette lighter, or the mismatched stereo surround, broken vent, cracked dash, missing blank off plate, or missing carpet.
It was a good thing I had my list with me because I would have never remembered to grab this little puppy. Unfortunately for me I didn't know Toyota had two different heater control panels for these years.
So I grabbed the two I could find
Ta-da!
I wonder what those two screw holes were for?
ah well.
I never did like the aftermarket, poorly painted, shifter knob the previous owner supplied me with. Since it decided to start detaching from the shifter while driving I decided to change that too.
Unfortunately none of the trucks in my generation had a 5-speed shifter knob. I had to go to a 4-runner that had a leather covered one. I cut off the leather in the yard before deciding it was acceptable (for the time being).
I'll be replacing that again when I can find the correct knob. Not exactly high on my priority list, but I'll keep an eye out.
I also got the tools to drop my spare tire. The original spare is the truck's original tire size. I'm currently running 31x10.50's and think that I may run into trouble if I ever tried to put that tiny pizza cutter on my truck.
Lucky for me I had that bent rim that needed to be put somewhere
I wonder if that spare had been removed since 1987?
The parts store was much less exciting.
I bought this:
Hungary Bill wrote: Here's some damage I didn't cause. You're looking at the heater control panel, not the missing ashtray, cigarette lighter, or the mismatched stereo surround, broken vent, cracked dash, missing blank off plate, or missing carpet.
The two holes were for the CB mic clip. Now you need to find a big chrome 80's radio and a nice tall whip antenna.
This build is so great I would happily nominate for drivabeater status.
And this:
This fuel pressure regulator actually got returned when I got home and read the reviews (kind of an impulse buy). It wasn't the one I really wanted but it was in front of me so I snagged it. Bleh.
I really wanted a Holley fuel pressure regulator which actually just arrived in my mailbox yesterday!
This one came compliments of Mr. Patgizz (seriously, thanks a ton!). So far it's passed the smell and the "blows air through" test. (that is, it smells like gas, and allows air to pass when I blow into the inlet )
I need to grab a couple threaded barb fittings and I'll be throwing this badboy on (so, you know. Stay tuned and all that). It's heavy enough I'll probably want to make a mount for it as well.
I also FINALLY ordered that "fast idle control rod" from carbs unlimited. For $18.00 I now know why people just bend nails
Good times.
I have high hopes for the carb work. I'm getting real tired of trying to figure out if my truck is going to idle at this stoplight or not (it's seriously hit and miss). It gets kind of embarrassing when it doesn't
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