I decided to turn my Raspberry Pi 5 Digital Dash learning experience into a tutorial video about a topic I have no business giving advice on. Or to just hear me talk for 25 minutes, here ya go:
I decided to turn my Raspberry Pi 5 Digital Dash learning experience into a tutorial video about a topic I have no business giving advice on. Or to just hear me talk for 25 minutes, here ya go:
In reply to Mykk :
I have no idea what I just watched, but I'm glad it's out there. 🤘🏻
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Now that's funny, lol
Putting the "K" in the transmission K-member:
My welder decided to hot glue on top of the weld during the 2nd pass, I'll clean it up on final burn in.
Finding a mount location for the external fuel pump:
Welding in fuse block mount tabs on the frame, welded together an ignition & switches mount panel. Having the switches mounted backwards and centered under the seat was an idea I wanted to test out. In mock up it seems they'll work out nice there.
In reply to Mykk :
It may be unwarranted, but I'm looking at your pedal pivot rod in single shear and thinking about losing input force and travel due to deflection. Is there another brace coming?
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
You are correct, I was thinking of taking a page from the domestics of the 50's-60's-70's and seeing if the transmission has any bolt holes I can utilize to make a pedal pivot bracket to support the other side of the pivot on the transmission.
In reply to Mykk :
given the quality of your work, i was confident that you had a robust plan, but as a neurotic engineer I had to ask.
Todays Project: This was an idea I wanted to try even before starting this build, along with hanging the differential off a rear perch. A transverse rear leaf spring on the jaguar differential.
I may also have a loose plan how to support the lower leaf soring mount plate bolted to the control arm brackets from the upper diff perch to get the load off the control arm bracket bolts into the differential.
We'll see how this idea works out
A while back I picked up a cheapy chinesium stamped '32 grill shell. Knowing fully well I'd be chopping it up and welding it back together. It arrived with some (expected) manufacturing defects. One of those defects was a bulbus nose on the crown of the grill, not really fixable and too ugly to use on the build.
I figured it would give me some practice to cut it up, section it, weld it back together and mock it up just to see how much of a sectioned grill would work on the project. Weirdly enough, despite the blatant disregard for body lines during the stamping of the grill the paint on it is actually quality.
Removed 9.5" from the shell.
The result is stubby, but it's kinda growing on me. It would look better with the grill insert. Moved the radiator and grill back to it's proportionate location forward of the cowl, found that I can shorten the frame 11" to get the spring perch crossmember roughly 1/2" ahead of the chin of the grill.
A different '32 grill shell is on order, hopefully with a smoother crown. But so far I'm thinking an 8.5"-9.5" sectioned job is going to be the winner for this project.
Looking great, Mykk!
Adding some extra mounting provisions and tabs around the steering gear and tubing to solidify the mounting location.
Mounted a few more electronics. The EFI controller, wideband and a constant duty solenoid. I originally planned on wiring it old school, battery to ignition switch-ignition switch to fuse block. Something told me to get a relay in there and take the loads off the contacts in the ignition switch so I put in the constant duty solenoid. It will need a couple more generic 5 pin relays for accessories.
Yes, the wideband gauge is under the seat and won't be visible. It's primary function will be to interpret the wideband sensor for the EFI, as well as provide a sanity check that AFR's match on the gauge and EFI.
Mykk said:I originally planned on wiring it old school, battery to ignition switch-ignition switch to fuse block. Something told me to get a relay in there and take the loads off the contacts in the ignition switch so I put in the constant duty solenoid. It will need a couple more generic 5 pin relays for accessories.
this is the correct answer.
Mykk said:One of those defects was a bulbus nose on the crown of the grill, not really fixable the grill the paint on it is actually quality.
I bet that shell would look good peaked. I'm usually not a big fan of peaked 32 shells because they don't have enough shape, but since this one has too much shape, you could peak it and shrink down the sides to give it a little more definition.
I really like the way you approach stuff, but I don't think I ever saw the completion of Mk 1. Hopefully I'll be around long enough for Mk 1.5 this time.
In reply to Crackers (Forum Supporter) :
It was suggested that I make the "32 grill" using two top halves with one flipped upside down. I plan to mock up and fit a version of that idea to see how it pans out in real life, using this grill as the lower half. Just something different that might actually be cool.
Giving the two '32 grill upper halves a go. Really happy with the results.
Looking good!
Would never have thought of combining two upper grill parts, but it certainly works.
Oversized '32 Ford headlights arrived. Looking rather snail like without a front axle or the resrt of the car. I'll experiment with different headlight pedestals to see if I can't get them to tuck in just a bit more.
Love it!
All in the name of not welding upside down. Happy to say it's all burned in and not going anywhere.
In reply to Mykk :
Good move, upside down welding never goes as well as I think it will.
Todays project: Shortening the frame 12.5"
Awesome!
Mock up the diff again to make sure things still clear as I keep moving forward on the rear suspension. Also looking to come up with a graceful way to transfer the loads from the lower plate the spring mounts on to the upper perch and/or frame.
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