In reply to Mr_Asa :
I haven't pulled it yet, so I'll check the seal while I get the impeller sorted. Thanks for the tip!
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I haven't pulled it yet, so I'll check the seal while I get the impeller sorted. Thanks for the tip!
Hopefully it doesn't leak. It is a little bit of a pain in the ass to get the bushing out in a reusable manner. Most people just buy a new bushing and tap the old one and then thread a bolt in and knock it out from the top of the gearcase.
If you do need to do it the full seal kit should run you around $20, so that's not too bad.
Edit: Seal kit does not include the bushing
If you haven't put the floor in yet, I attached pieces of marine ply under the floor to reinforce the seat base locations. I used resorcinol resin glue and some short brass screws to attach the reinforcements. The resorcinol glue is structural and waterproof, so is good for this kind of thing.
Boat looks like it will be a hoot for all of you.
In reply to CJ (He's Just an FS) :
That's a good idea for seat. I can probably whip something up with some leftover scrap plywood.
I got a lot done over the past few days. I had most of Friday through Sunday available to just put in some work, so that's exactly what I did. My main goal was to get the floor boards completely sealed by Sunday afternoon, and while coats were drying I could tinker with other stuff.
All coats are officially done and the floor is ready to bolt in. Not sure how it's going to work out with my board stiffening plan. Looks like I may have underestimated how difficult it will be to have the boards flush enough for a screw to grab and pull tight.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I also installed the starter and bracket. It required some meat removed from the bracket for clearance, but it's in there now.
Bracket before.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
New bracket needs clearance.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I also got my new stainless emblems in. The first set I ordered came predrilled, but the holes didn't match up with my boat. The seller swapped me out with blanks so I could drill as needed. After aligning them, I marked with sharpie from the backside, and then proceeded to drill away. Turned out decent, and after some head scratching I think we have decided to just paint them white or gray.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I also fit some new stainless cleats. Each one required drilling at least one new hole though.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I also removed all hardware, stripped more paint back to bare aluminum around the transom and gunwales. Filling some old holes with JB weld, and sanding smooth. So close to our first coat of fresh paint.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
I pulled the motor and laid it on it's back. So far no leaks when place on it's back or front of the engine.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
This week I want to get the last bit of paint prep done and maybe screw down the floor deck. I kinda want to wait until I'm finished with paint for the floor, but it would be nice to not have them taking up so much space. Also the 300 noodles I bought could disappear that way as well. Also need to crack open the lower case and get a parts list ready.
captainawesome said:The kiddos went to their grandparents this weekend so I convinced the wife she would have fun stripping paint on the boat. I've never tried Citristrip before, only Aircraft Stripper. The price for the paste was only a few more dollars than the liquidish stuff, and since I've got vertical surfaces figured it was worth a shot.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Just like Aircraft Stripper it bubbles up the old paint. With a couple different sized scrapers it basically fell off the boat. Around the rivets required a little more effort, but all in all I'm super happy with how well it worked. It's way safer to work with too. Some cleanup with mineral spirits and a slight scuffing with some Scotch Brite pads should get us ready for paint very soon.
I've still got the inside of the gunwales and the stern to strip today. If my plan works out, the hull should be ready for the Gluvit by this afternoon, fingers crossed.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
So, it looks like the citristrip stuff works as good as old school aircraft stripper? Any idea what type of paint you were using it on?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
No clue what type it was, but it takes a lot more time to work on thicker paint than the aircraft stuff. Most of the paint on this boat was pretty thin, but I'm super happy with the stuff. It doesn't melt your skin off and smells pretty pleasant. I'm a huge fan of the paste since you can put it on super thick and it doesn't run off. For ~$17 it was a good buy.
Well, if you need mud flaps to keep crap off your boat, tractor trailer flaps are $25, rubber door mats are $12.
I did it.
I finally did it.
This boat and trailer has officially been registered and tagged in the great state of Arkansas!
To celebrate, I ordered up my stickers so I'll be ready for the big show once the paint is dry. So pumped. Floor is getting screwed in place tonight.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Deck is screwed down with around 45 or more pool noodles under it. Feels pretty solid. Unfortunately the flooring stuff I bought looks stupid. I may end up with just some standard marine carpet with some sort of trim around the edges. I'm not letting it slow me down though.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Opinion time.....
I originally wanted to build a back bench seat. The other day me and the wife were considering just adding in two more seats on pedestals that don't have the arms. They are narrower so room won't be super tight, but still allows for a storage area behind them for the gas tank and battery.
Think it would look weird with 4 seats?
These plus...
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Two of these....
seat by hatchethairy, on Flickr
captainawesome said:I may end up with just some standard marine carpet with some sort of trim around the edges.
I suggest using something other than carpet. Carpet will hold water, period. Seadeck is good, but expensive. They make epoxy grip paint and some other kind of stick on floor, too.
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Forum Patrón) :
Too late on this one I think. The stick on EVA foam floor I got was just not what I imagined it would be, and the carpet will be simple. I think it would take quite some time to rot the floors I put in with 4-5 coats of epoxy, and the rest of the boat being aluminum. Not to mention it will cover my wood butchery well. I may redo it over the winter, but for now I'm committed.
That's coming along nicely. Carpet will definitely get you through a few summers, time to have some fun.
I have a kind of textured vinyl on my boat floor. I like it, not slippery, doesnt hold water, easy to clean.
In reply to captainawesome :
Its probably similar to this? https://www.amazon.com/Nautolex-Marine-Vinyl-Flooring-Wide/dp/B073WKZ5HQ?th=1 or https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Extreme-Indoor-Outdoor-Flooring/dp/B07CJS98LF/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=vinyl+boat+flooring&qid=1592253461&sr=8-3
I think the amazon picture must just be really off? Its has the described "pebble" texture. I didn't do it, PO did. I just replaced the foam.
In reply to java230 :
I should have asked about options before ordering the carpet, that would have been perfect.
So I found a '65 33hp Evinrude but it's been coverted to a long shaft. I need a short shaft. Is that worth the trouble for upgrade or should I keep my focus searching for a 40hp as that's the max rating of the boat?
I'm not 100%, but usually they just had a longer driveshaft and a bolt-on extension. Mine does and it is a '61
You should be able to find a replacement driveshaft, and replacing them is as easy as changing the impeller in the water pump. Then unbolt the extension and get goin.
Let me do some digging to verify all that
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I can probably get it cheap, but wonder if jumping from 25 to 33 is worth the trouble anyway. The guy seems ready to offload it quick, and it's listed for $150. I think I could get it at $100 maybe, but if it costs $300 in parts to covert that's no bueno.
Do you know what the serial number is? It looks like some of those years have a driveshaft extension as well as a lower unit housing extension.
You'll need to log in to post.