Poor life choices - C4 content

Day-114(2-hours):

Slight progress, I think...

I checked for the source of the coolant leak. The rear passenger's side of the shroud is the only place that was wet, but I checked the petcock and realized it was barely snug. I tightened by hand as far as I dared - it's all plastic - and gave it a crank.

It fired right up, but no amour of throttle input kept it running, and it died in 30-seconds or less. I tried to restart & it stumbled, then nothing. Subsequent attempts only cranked with no fire, just like previous times. I was able to watch my noid light though, and confirmed I had spark the entire time.

I pulled the 5 easy plugs, but they weren't very wet. They did smell a bit like gas, as did the open carb. I'm curious if this might be a clue though - these are plugs #1, 3 & 5(though not in order) and they have very different colors. Does that tell me anything?

After reinstalling the plugs, less than 10-minutes, I tried to restart. I got a slight stumble, then nothing, even though I still had spark. So I decided to chase my current draw.

What I found was a 5.5-6 amp draw with the key off. Holy E36 M3! I found the source in the ctsy/clk circuit, which includes all underhood and interior lights, as well as the radio. My hunch is it's the radio, as I can't imagine the two underhood lights drawing that much current. Oddly, even with the fuse removed the clock on the radio is still illuminated - but current draw was down to 0.5-0.6 amps.

So I tried restarting it again, and this time it took off. After about 20-seconds of playing with the throttle the idle stabilized, and I was able to get base timing set to 12-degrees. While I was in the process of adjusting it I noticed coolant leaking from underneath the lower hose. However, the radiator was starting to steam before I could reset the idle mixture screws.

Once I shut it off the coolant stopped dropping almost immediately, but it was at about 165-degrees so I wasn't able to pull the clamp & check for the source of the leak. Maybe tomorrow...if it starts.

Something weird is going on electrically. Can you throw a voltmeter on the alternator when it's running?

In reply to mazdeuce:

That's a good idea. I did have it tested, but 30-seconds on a bench isn't quite the same as real-world.

Was there an alarm in this car?

Plugs left to right, as little as it's run they should all be that clean but it almost looks like no fire, and the shiney look is from too much gas the two on the right are badly gas soaked take some 100 grit or a finger nail file and get that off the tip and under the ground. do all 8 the 1 one the right looks Not too bad but again gas soaked and should be closer in looks to the far left

Throw a new set of ACDelcos in for E36 M3s and giggles please

In reply to Dusterbd13:

Just the factory system.

In reply to GTXVette:

Thanks! I was hoping to get your input.

In reply to QuasiMofo:

I was planning on changing plugs with the first oil change, after I've put a few miles on it. I don't think the plugs are actually causing any problems yet?

Pete the middle plug She no workee or will be done VERY soon.I have seen Delco's with SO MUCH crap built around the Insulator UP tp the Ground, Still firing in 70's model Caddy's ( I worked there then) It was hard to Belive, But they were Not Gas Soaked, Dry as Da Bone.

There used to be a cleaning tool for plugs a mini sand blaster worked great But in aircraft Ind. they were Nixted as they may cause a glass to form over the Electrode and insulator. Never saw any Follow up But I stopped any way As they wouldn't let you Have them in the Shop

DISABLE THE ALARM. You park it inside any way.

old saying; locks are for honest People.

GTXVette wrote: DISABLE THE ALARM. You park it inside any way. old saying; locks are for honest People.

It's on the to-do list, I've just been too preoccupied to research what needs done.

I know this was mentioned back on page 52, but, did you replace the power valve in the carb?

I, along with like 100 hundred other people on here, really want to see this car run.

In reply to marks93cobra:

Thanks! Yes, I did replace the diaphragm, however this carb has the BB-sized ball instead of the rubber/plastic flapper that was in the rebuild kit, so I left that as-is.

diaphram? ball bearing?...I haven't dinked with a Holley in a while, but when I hear that, I'm thinking you are talking about the vacuum secondary mechanism. The PV screws into the metering block (or main body, depending on what model you have...I think)...you would have had to open up the carb by pulling the front bowl to replace the PV.

Pete Gossett wrote: In reply to marks93cobra: Thanks! Yes, I did replace the diaphragm, however this carb has the BB-sized ball instead of the rubber/plastic flapper that was in the rebuild kit, so I left that as-is.

yea, pete the bb/flaper is to keep fuel from flowing back out of the enrichment aka shooter.

the valve he speaks of is the one that screws in the metering Plate in the front, the rear does not use one.also they do not useally blow out with out Backfiring through the carb.

now when a new one is being installed hold the plate level so you are screwing it upward into the plate to make SURE the Gasket is sitting on the power valve correctly use one numbered 6.5, it is a good all around Power valve. that is the Vacuum level when the Valve will open and add more Fuel and around when the Shooter stops delivering fuel, I thought you bought a Holley Book? no worries just call with questions

In reply to GTXVette:

Ok, yes I replaced that valve. I do have the book & used it for the rebuild.

I only had a few minutes this evening, but I wanted to check the lower radiator hose clamp. It was snug, but not really tight, so I rotated it to a better position & cranked it down a bit more.

Of course the. I had to try to start it. It fired up fine, but died in about 30-seconds with a slight backfire. However, tonight it would restart. I was able to watch the noid light & confirmed I never lost spark, but it never would stay running.

It's really puzzling me what's causing it to be so intermittent and temperamental. It seems like one day it'll run fine for a while, until something starts leaking or burning & I need to shut it off. But I'll fix that problem & the next time I try it won't stay running.

Any chance your FPR is bad?

so next time it's running STARE at the fuel Pressure Gages Ensure they do not go UP or DOWN the moment it stops running as i have said Take the bowl site plugs OUT if correct no fuel will come out so no problem if it is coming out that may be what is happining.but if it's too low like no pressure it may be running out of fuel.If you think its out of fuel pull the lower right bowl bolt out and see how much fuel comes out, some will but Less than Half a bowl It could not be getting to the Metering jets. If while running the Shooters are Dribbling get more clearence to the accelerator pump arm they can feel loose but still make contact and cause the dribble Making it run rich, Check both ends.

In reply to GTXVette:

Dumb question: while idling its only drawing from the front/primary bowl & circuit, correct?

Should be. Unless something is really berkeleyed up.

Not dumb, IF the rears are open too much It can suck fuel in. a product of SUCKtion and the arm too tight. I will try to get the arm right on the pump but really if you can see air you are Ok,.025 is fine, that affect's Tip in(enrichment) and can lead to lean Backfire so not too much.

I'm getting DTs. Anything new?

In reply to Stampie:

Me too, out of town until next weekend.

You could at least tell us how your trip is.

In reply to Stampie:

Well, we left home a day early because my FIL had a heart attack. He started having pain Wednesday, and finally drove himself to the VA around midnight. They stuck him in an ambulance & took him 40-miles to a real hospital(not dissing the local VA, but it's more of a clinic), who put in 3-stents overnight.

We didn't find out about any of this until about 10am Thursday, since he went in solo. He was home Friday afternoon though. We went over to visit yesterday morning & he was doing very well, and we all went out for lunch. A little pain & faigue, but that's it.

Before we left I received a copy of Hot Rod from SWMBO's coworker that had an article on Holley troubleshooting. I skimmed it quickly(didn't want to pack it & potentially forget to bring it home) and it had some tips that aren't in the Holley book I bought.

Sorry about your FIL but glad he's better. You know I'm waiting for you to become a Holly expert cause I have two in my parts stash that I need to get working someday.