I don't know what your tuning experience is but I would absolutely take it to someone with experience with LS's and/or Megasquirt if you plan on tracking this thing. You don't want the Subie guys learning on your car.
You can pretty much get the fuel tuned on the street but without a dyno you're just guessing at the timing. The timing is also a really important aspect of the driveability too. It can cause alot of surging and bucking if not set up properly.
My tuning experience is summarized by this thread, nil. I did not know that there could be a problematic learning curve for a subie guy on LS, I guess I thought it would be new without being so different since it's the same principles. Oh well, learned something :)
I'm gonna take a look at my options locally and see what is available and affordable. What I'm most likely to do is track it after fuel tuning, stay off the edge, and not try to rush anything. With that being said, my feelers are out for a tuner so if something comes up I'm open to it.
It's probably annoying, but GM computer is usually the best computer. You can find them all day long on eBay for not much. If you don't have HP Tuners, someone nearby might, through which you can copy and paste a stock tune and be running in a jiffy. Sometimes, simple is far more complicated than it needs to be.
That said, Sloppy Mechanics guy sometimes works with Megasquirt stuff, so research down that path may be helpful . . .
Not to start a war in his thread but I would never ever go back to a stock computer if I already had a Megasquirt. Tuning them sucks.
An experienced tuner will likely not have any problems with the LS, the Subie guy can probably handle it just fine if he knows what he's doing. Tuning a standalone is pretty straight forward regardless of the motor but a tuner with LS experience will probably be in the ballpark much quicker and likely cost you less money. With that said I would go with a good tuner with no experience rather than a crappy tuner that only does LS. If the guy has a good reputation then go for it. If you were closer I'd give you a hand.
I would def not go back to a GM computer, got away from a perfectly fine ECU because it was (so far as I know) inseparable from a TCU that was not electrically resilient and capable of putting me into limp mode. Pair that with not having HPTuners and I went MS. I do appreciate the input and wanted to respond, not trying to come down on you. Sloppy Mechanics will get a look, for sure.
That makes sense. Experience with the LS platform should make the process go quicker and smoother just like experience overall is preferable. I do not know the rep of the shop, I just know they're very close and I can stay off anything bigger than a 2-lane. I would def check with FloatingDoc (might have got that wrong, cooking with wine) before I would go with the subie shop, given his recent bad experience. A founding member of our small group is a guy with a MS'd turbo Miata so I will also be checking with him for a recommendation in a tuner with MS experience. Depending on how my neighborhood and road testing turns out, I might just roll with the VE tune this time and not stress about finding a solid, reputable, MS'd LS tuner by this weekend. Also not sure that I should be freeing up $600+ on such short notice if the VE tune gives me a safe, fun time and gives me the time to find the best tune option. It's all up in the air really and my CC is standing by.
Well.... The digital dash is killing my battery. I went to go for a quick jaunt around the neighborhood to terrorize my neighbors (work on the VE table) and nothing comes on. When I get back from the track this weekend, if this dadgum hunk o' junk even makes it there, I might just put a kill switch on the power to the dash. I already set the Pi to turn off after 3 minutes but something is still pulling current and this wasn't a problem pre-dash.
That is all. No happy excited update this time, just wondering if the hoopty in my driveway is gonna make it to the main road without dying, can't even focus on the track yet.
Edit: I made the decision and the mustang is out for this track weekend. I have a suspect electrical system that would already be sketch, a suspect brake system that I can probably resolve but would still be in the back of my head, and the car isn't tuned. It is not track safe, not really street safe, and I'm not comfortable that I can make it that way in 4 evenings.
I will be taking a breather, finding the energy to come at this thing yet again, and then I will figure out the scope of my rebuild. The current, and vague, idea I have in mind is to rip out the dashboard, feed it through a woodchipper with every inch of wire not MS-branded, and do it all over again with a custom dashboard, pro-fabbed seat brackets (I like the neon seats, sue me), and maybe some suspension tweaks to reduce body roll. This would encompass a full re-do of the MS integration after relocating it to sit behind the factory radio position.
That's the right call in my opinion. I hate rushing to get things "ready".
I simple painless harness and fusebox is not terribly expensive if you just wanted to rip out EVERYTHING and start fresh. If you told me what you needed and how many circuits I could make you a small auxiliary fusebox but it seems like you're perfectly capable.
Honestly, I don't even know what I need yet. I'm still in the "Unknown Unknowns" stage of a few things.
Last night I had a few brewskis and cleared the other half of the 2-car garage (her miata lives on the other half) of the assortment of "just moved" and "random stuff". That left me with enough room to get the Mustang in the garage and I was harboring a small glimmer of hope that by burning the midnight oil I could reach a point where I would feel comfortable taking the mustang up to the track. The 15 minutes I just spent getting the mustang to stumble up the driveway (like a 3 pack a day smoker trying to run laps) was enough to squash that hope. I could go and get some logs to start working on the tune but that's way ahead of where I need to be working right now, it really does need a tear down and rebuild the right way. For reference, the fuel load that had been at 45kpa last time was sitting upwards of 80 at a very rough and low rpm idle. The car would not hold an idle, even when I reverted to a restore point, and if I revved the engine to let the clutch out the engine would idle so low when TPS went back to 0 that it would actually die. 400 rpm idle vs the 1000 that I set, dipping as low as 200 before finally quitting. AFR says 15-15.1 but the O2 voltage guage is still red for some reason. Letting the clutch out enough to hold the car in the driveway with the engine was too much load for the engine to handle and it would die, regardless of pushing the throttle up to/over 40% and the fuel load maxing the chart at 100kpa. There is so much wrong with the tune that it would probably take the remainder of my time, best case, for me to sort that without even touching anything else.
Looking ahead I want to get rid of the OEM dash, it does not suit the car anymore from a functional standpoint or an aesthetic view. I have it in mind to DIY a sheetmetal dash with just a bit more aesthetic appeal than a barebones DIY racecar dash. That will accompany a full rewire of well just about everything. If you've seen a picture of the engine bay wiring and thought it was bad then you would keel over at a picture of the inside. I have had a floating plan of redoing it during downtime and this sure as crud seems like a qualifying downtime. I'm going to relocate the MS, better integrate a charge panel for devices, possibly a dash mounted GoPro, a better fuse panel, kill switches, etc... I want to get rid of the OEM switches that flanked the gauges, I don't know of a good reason to not go with labeled and lit toggle switches that aren't falling apart. I'll likely do the same for the OEM fan controls, I have no AC plans so I just need fan control for defrost and the factory panel is clunky and poorly positioned for a harnessed seat. A dash rework is also a good time to cut some weight from the environmental box and strip it down to a blower, basic ducting, and the heater core. The engine bay will get similar treatment with neater wiring. If I have extra time I'll start working on the front end, prepping it structurally for basic aero and general de-clunkifying.
Does that sound as ambitious as it felt typing it out? I bet it does but I can also tell you that it was cathartic as all heck and I'll feel a lot happier about showing off the car and taking passengers when I've gotten those basics done. The goal is to be track ready for a Grand Re-Debut at The FIRM on the second weekend in February. The FIRM was the last time I really drove the mustang so maybe it's fitting.
Does anyone have any tips for building a dashboard?
Error404 said:Does anyone have any tips for building a dashboard?
You definitely need a CAD model. "Cardboard Aided Design"
I yanked out the dash last night, my goal is to do 1 thing a day even if it's small. I was looking at the dash, and the Speedway gauges the PO installed, and I got to thinking that I'm gonna try and salvage the dash. Structurally I should be able to make it work, at least well enough to make a custom/DIY dash a luxury. Aesthetically, though, it's going to be a little interesting. I don't think Krylon is going to be an improvement and the concave curves are going to make vinyl exceptionally difficult, to say the least. From what I know of vinyl, that is. The dash pad is gonna go and I want it to no longer be 80s red. The primary goal, though, is the wiring behind it and it's safe to say I have my work cut out for me. I'm surfing Summit for a fuse block and I'm planning on expanding my charge panel idea to include to Speed Racer switches for headlight power, cut offs, etc...
I have my work cut out for me it would seem and 3 months to get it done.
Not much productive has been done since my last post, I kinda lost motivation. I did order a Painless harness and fuse block for the inside and then stalled out again for a couple weeks. Well, the motivation returned and I did research on how to do this thing right, how I should have done it the first time. I'm going to completely remove the MS harness for relocation and the process of being turned into a presentable engine harness. I'll be ordering some quality sheathing and heat shrink for that job, though I'll probably stick with crimps for the connections. I'll play the chassis wiring by ear once I get the dash wiring cleared out and I have room to work and can see what needs to be replaced.
I got out in the garage last night, with the benefit of a new overhead LED, and removed all the tape that I put in the MS harness. I then labeled the wires by bunched and began zip tying in prep for removing and redoing the harness. (Pic below) Basically,I'm gonna tear it down as far as I need to in order to build it back, right.
There's the before, functional for testing.
And the after, prepping for removal with red zips and green tape labels
There's a bunch of legacy wire coming through the firewall, I'm hoping to be able to use the OEM grommet and hole for the MS wiring. Also thinking about a small bus for 12V power to neaten things up. Maybe.
Wednesday nitetime ninja edit: This evening was focused on cleaning up the mess living under the dash. I took anything I couldn't ID as critical, rolled it back, and snipped it. Basically anything that wasn't the multifunction switch :) Progress pic below.
Can anyone ID what this connector is? It's on the opposite side from the multifunction and down-column from the ignition.
Slight change of plans after a planning session tonight; I now intend to add in some connectors at the ends of each bundle of wires. I also want to use a connector to collect my sensor grounds in a more organized fashion. I mocked up a sample route, that's the green tape in the picture below (to be added). I'm also planning on putting another fuse block or bus of some kind to handle 12V power and ground for the engine in a neater fashion, that will likely be placed next to the existing relay blocks. This does mean that I plan to handle power/ground and signals/sig ground with different bundles, at least until they meet at the connectors but it lets me keep the wires shorter than if I retraced to put power in the MS bundle.
I expect to have plenty of room in the factory grommet location for all the MS wires, so that will really help simplify the harness. I should be able to avoid needing to add any heat shielding, I still might in some places out of an abundance of caution but I'm not getting that close to the headers at any point.
So, with that being said, where is a good place to buy weatherproof connectors? Is there anything outside the obvious that I should look for when shopping connectors?
Ok so excuse the picture, I did it on my phone in about 2 minutes. Each number denotes an intended connector So, with no further ado, here is the legend for it:
1) Drivers bank of coils and injectors
2) Passenger bank of coils and injectors
3) 5V, TPS, IAC, MAP, IAT, MAF
The above connectors are signal and sensor ground only, with the exception of 5V
4) Sensor Ground collection
5) 12V Power and Grounds
6) Wiper Motor (it's in rough shape)
7) Coolant, Cam, Crank both O2s
8) A 1:3 split for 5V
9) Fuel Pump Trigger
The sand man has been following me around with a 2x4 since early afternoon, whacking me anytime I think that I may just be able to be productive. With that in mind, here's a picture to tide over the clamoring of all my anxious fans. I have yet to wire the cam, crank, O2s, fan, fuel pump, and associated power/ground stuff. I have to get the car in the air and reroute/clean up the wiring for those things since I'm trying to do things right this time. After that, I'm retackling the interior fuse block and finishing ripping nearly every wire out. I have a new fuse block and wires that will go in, basically just taking care of driving lights and the 2 computers. I am also adding to my previous between-the-seats "charge panel" with a pair of on-off switches for park and headlights along with a covered toggle switch for hazards. More on that when it actually exists.
And while I am sure that everyone loves the parade of nearly identical engines shots, it's what I have because it has been the focus of my current labors. I'll show something else when I work on something else.
I know that feeling when it seems like zero progress is being made after hours(or days) of work and then suddenly alot comes together very quickly. You still have a couple months until decent weather, you have plently of time to do it right.
We're actually scheduled for The FIRM mid-Feb and Roebling Road in late March. So not all that long. What I am keeping in mind with everything is that I do not want to halfway do anything that I am doing, I don't want to be going back in to somewhere I have been. That's why I'm putting the car up in the air to route the underside wires rather than just make some connections, I did that last year and it was a bad decision. So, with all that in mind, the goal is to be done with that on Saturday, that should wrap up the engine bay work for the time being. The new fuse block will,hopefully, be pretty straightforward given the gutted interior and that it is pretty much only running the driving lights. I'll probably spend some brain power on the ignition switch, I cut some wires there and I need to make sure that is 100% before applying any power. Then it's reassemble and autotune, then set up a dashboard for the display that isn't 500% brightness. 
Once it runs and moves, I'm gonna rebuild the rear calipers and thoroughly bleed the proportioning valve and I'll be ready for the February shakedown. Theoretically.
Small update: I am punting on the installation of the new fuse block. I might punt on the new switches, the factory one works so that makes the new ones largely a vanity project. Or, at the least, they're not very critical considering the dashboard is still resting on the roof. With that in mind, I began to clean up the existing fuse block after all my wire deletions. I almost took a picture of that but it's ugly and we can all just imagine it.
In other news, I am sharing my garage space with this little girl.
We think she was an inside cat that was abandoned, she likes to come up and hang out of the front porch with dry food and ear scratches. With the cold weather we hadn't seen her for a few days so when she came around last night we went out but she wasn't able to eat. Both times she tried to eat the dry food she dropped it and ran off, as near a sign of tooth pain as it gets. She's gonna chill in the garage, with wet food and a blanket and a space heater, until a vet visit can be scheduled to get the tooth looked at. She is not thrilled at being behind bars and has been professing her innocence enthusiastically, after cleaning the food bowl and getting her energy up. Guess I gotta keep the music volume down...
So, life happened. I got back into town, got a couple weeks of work in at the job, and now we have covid in the house. (In recovery) I got a real solid day in the garage yesterday, and tidied some loose ends today. The rules say that I'm gonna have to email my boss here very shortly and let him know that we're a plague house so I'll have a few extra days time off until we come back negative and HR lets me back in the building. It feels weird to take time off when I'm not sick, or even too sick to work, since I am realizing that while not a workaholic I definitely don't have a healthy acceptance of time off work. Anywho, on to the reason that you're all here, the weekends progress on the Frankenstang!
I tackled the cabin electrical yesterday, working from the existing fuse panel. All loose (literally) ends are capped and everything is fused. I am sticking with the factory hazard and headlight switches for the time being, going with a snazzier solution is mainly aesthetic so that is on the "Not very important while the dash rests on the roof" list. Both computers, MS and digital dash, are fused at the panel and my wiring is greatly simplified and cleaned up. It could be better, could be neater, but there's very little left that isn't required to keep it drivable on the roads. While I was in there I went ahead and connected up my charge panel wiring, although it is not yet installed, and rerouted the hatch release button to clean up the behind-the-seat area. I'll apply some more tape and get that area ready to tuck as the dash is reinstalled. I think that I'm going to go for a single speed fan for defrost purposes, I'll likely go with a covered toggle switch mounted to the dash. I'm kinda hoping that I can avoid this, I haven't picked a slot on the fuse panel to take power from and I want to get that done before I put the dash back in. BTW, I did make note of my new fuse arrangements so if there are any issues I have the new scheme written down. I'll probably make a laminated card to go in the car somewhere, analog backups are nice to have.
Today I also made a couple quick 'n dirty brackets to hold the computer to the hump; I had some scrap sheet metal laying around and a little time with snips and a hammer had them into rough shape. I used some 1/2" self-tapping screws to hold everything together, long-term I will revisit these and made them purty but for now they're functional and the MS ain't goin' nowheres, least if it do I got bigger things to worry 'bout.
Theoretically, I'm ready to hook the battery back up and make sure that it's charged up all the way. I want to do that before I put the dash in, otherwise I'm sure that I'll be taking the dash back out to fix something and that's just annoying. I'm holding off on this, I went and got it in my head that I missed something so I'm going to go over everythign a few times just to make sure I'm not gonna burn the car to the ground. I realize that this is a very small risk but I've got that voice in my head and it doesn't hurt anything to quintuple check.
Assuming that the electrical is sorted, the remainder of my Must Do list is:
Bleed brake proportioning valve/rear lines
Test/tune
Install dash
I was gifted a track trailer for xmas, so a hitch is on the Nice To Have Done list this time around. I have less than 3 weeks until The FIRM, a month after that before Roebling so a trailer will likely be squeezed in between along with some aesthetic projects like door panels and my improved switches. I also want to put some lights on the underside of the hatch for loading, stuff like that. The Nice To Have Done list also includes a rebuild of my junk yard calipers and installation of my slotted rotors on the rear, this is a pretty quick job once we are covid free and I can get access to a pair of QuickJacks. I plan on making very good use of my unexpected time off of work, due to covid rules, to get this thing running right and beat the clock.
I did some powered testing yesterday, both flasher units had failed and my brake switch connector has vanished. AutoZone carries flashers, of course, so that was easy and the brake switch connector is basically 2 blade terminals. Aside from that, the lights all worked. Until today, when the factory headlight switch that I was planning on running with for a couple weeks spontaneously failed. The parking lights work but the switch is not passing voltage for the headlights. The ohmeter shows no continuity when the switch is closed. Bummer!
Except, I have a basic toggle switch and slick push button switch in a drawer. The easy answer is the toggle switch but I really like the push button, even if it can't handle the amperage. Another quick trip to the store and I have a handy dandy new relay. The plan is to mount the switch on my charger panel between the seats and pull switched 12V from the panel for the relay. It's a bit of an aesthetic thing but if I can then why not, right?
It's gonna take a little work but the plan is to screw that to the tunnel between the seats to allow device charging and act as an accessory switch panel for the future. I have the switch sitting in a washer because I pre-drilled a way too large hole when I made the panel. Live and learn...
I even drew myself a little diagram to reduce the chances that I bork it up in a bit. Ain't it purty?
The lights all work. Again. I went with the slick push button but only did the electrical portion tonight, what with the hour and work in the morning. I'll do the hardware stuff, mounting and assembly, tomorrow and hopefully be working on tuning Friday onward. Hopefully. Fingies crossed. The electrical ain't pretty but it's clean(er) and it's functional and it's done. For the very short term. I think a more intensive rewiring will be a summer project once I get a window AC in the garage, Florida nights are miserable. More tomorrow or Friday, I'm a little wore out tonight but I think I'm still on track for The FIRM next weekend.
Well, my loyal readers, I come bearing another quick update. When last we met I was all set to button things up and give 'er a cranking. I did, indeed, button things up and that was the last thing that went right. The lights continued to work, as did my charge panel mounted 90° off but that was it. Neither computer had power, checked via multimeter, although the fuses had power and the wires had continuity. Changing fuses did not work. Also, the starter came on with the key in the Run position rather than held in crank. After a quick descent into despair I pulled out of that flat spin (partial thanks to a kick in the rear) and devised a new plan and shopping list for AutoZone. I really am working on my process, it gets a little smoother each time. That was yesterday.
Today, I made V-day pancakes and mimosas for the Miata to my Mustang. I also did a bunch of car stuff, don't worry. I bought an armload of supplies from AutoZone, drank too much coffee, and really worked the ole braincase hard to nail down my course of action. As it stands now it is after midnight and I am winding down after coming in from the garage. I'm about done for so I'll stop while the stopping is good and say that I am very hopeful that testing tomorrow will be fruitful. I am way behind schedule but I have no intention of going more than 70% at The FIRM, at most, so I think it's better to get there if at all possible. I added a bit to the junk pile on the floor but all the weight I saved there went right back into the car, I think I'm still lighter by a couple pounds though. I'm rambling so here is a teaser shot that I'm hoping to add on to tomorrow. (And yes, I'm labeling and documenting every wire, lessons learned mmkay?)
Bonus prequel shot!!
It has been many moons but, rest assured, although a bit of a sanity break was taken I have been making progress. No pics this time, not much to really show. If I can figure out a way to get a decent video maybe I'll do a walk-around or something but it's a pretty low priority.
In no particular order:
-I got the above pictured switch panel installed, works decently but is a bit haphazard. Not much to say about this, it went about like you'd expect. Rev 2 is in the works, probably a project for this upcoming week, the plan is to put the fuses and relays in the old HVAC control bay and have the switches between the seats. That may come in Rev 3, though, as I'm on a timeline and the quick solution is to make a slightly more secure version of what I have.
-I got 'er cranking and mostly running happily. My exhaust bolts were either loose from the trans rebuild or at some point loosened, tightening those helped noticeably. The base VE table had to be bumped up about 33% to prevent lean backfiring, this was the single biggest correction. After not even thinking about it for a long wile I finally replaced the el cheapo IAC valve with a Summit model, kicking myself for waiting this long. With the stamped casing model that was included on the <$100 amazon special throttle body the intake shrieked like a dying banshee below 8% throttle, loud enough that it nearly overpowered the engine. The unmetered air getting in was also throwing my AFRs way out of wack, making it difficult to progress. The Summit model needs just a hair of help from the adjustment screw to settle into a gentle hiss of fast moving air in the intake tube, 2 thumbs up for quality parts.
-I did some light, general tidying. It's easier to want to work on a project that looks like it's ready to drive if you just fix that thing than it is one that's acting as a dirty storage locker.
I'm filling gas cans tomorrow and, right now, I think that the car should be capable of a trip through the neighborhood once the tank is filled. I'm also registering for Roebling Road tomorrow, with JTI early in the November. That gives me about 5 weeks to be ready for a road-trip but I am feeling pretty hopeful. Pre-track weekend high priorities include:
-Find good noise-cancelling earbuds without breaking the bank. I'd like to come in under $100 but the more I think about it the more I realize that these are more PPE than they are entertainment equipment so spending a little more on a quality pair is not all that crazy. I could do earplugs but it's a 5hr trip and I really want music (at a healthy volume) and the ability to make/take a phone call without too much hassle if, say, something were to be dragging behind my trailer.
-Weatherstripping, rust-proofing, and an interior paint job. The weatherstripping leaks and I have the replacements in the garage, no reason not to have this on the list. The car isn't nice to look at inside, honestly, and an afternoon of vacuuming and degreasing would lay a nice groundwork for a solid coat of battleship grey. I'm really only thinking about painting the floor, the rest of the interior is in decent shape and not bad to look at, it's really the floors that leave you feeling kinda dirty (and not in that way) when you get out.
-Hook up a basic blower motor switch for defrost.
-Fix the passenger window crank. The window is nearly stuck in the lowered position, the crank is very difficult to turn to raise the window and I am concerned that it may get stuck that way if something breaks. I think I recall this starting after my trip through the sand trap and onto the tire wall in turn 6, so I'm hoping that it's just a bent rail or similar.
-Bleed the brakes, particularly the rear. Ideally I'll have the time to rebuild the spares I bought and find out if the speed bleeder screws fit.
-Hook up the trailer hitch. I plan on towing a trailer to hold my tires as well as a set of Hoosiers for her Miata. This will also help stiffen the rear.
-Battery box install and relocation.
-A gas gauge. I intend to mount physical gauges for Oil Pressure and Fuel Level in the old center vent cutout. I have a cardboard mock-up taped there now and it's easy to see from the drivers seat and, hopefully, will help the interior look a little less like a tetanus trap.
My "If I'm Ahead Of Schedule" wish-list adds a front strut tower brace (in the garage just needs time to install) and a rebuilt driver seat mount. The seat currently sits off center, it's workable while I'm taking it easy on what is essentially a new car but needs to be fixed. The front strut tower brace is not a higher priority since I don't really intend to go all out and turn-in is not slowing me down right now. Oh, a parking brake would be nice. The cables came in the totes with the car along with the handle but something tells me that it won't be a quick and easy install. A front tow hook would be really nice but is likely to be an over the winter addition.
In sum, the car cranks and runs well so far. I expect to be driving around the neighborhood tomorrow and on track at Roebling in November. It won't exactly be pretty, I hope to tackle a lot of the aesthetics over the winter, but the car should drive like a champ. I was hoping for a shakedown day at The FIRM but I don't think that's reasonably in the cards. We'll see, I'm really hoping to be able to take a spur of the moment registration up there and get some track time.
Back for a minor update:
We made it around the block! (Only died on me twice) No power under throttle but that will come as autotune adjusts the VE table. I'll probably help it out with an extra 15% just so it lugs a little less. The IAC is a hair away from being closed and unplugged, something in my settings is flipping a coin to decide whether it opens at idle and closes with throttle or closes at idle and opens with throttle. The last time it flipped I hadn't changed anything, just a power cycle, and the IAC closed 50% at idle. I have to button down the dash bezel and run some self-tappers into the switch panel but I think she'll be cross-town ready this coming weekend, once I take the hit or miss IAC out of the picture.
You may already know this but you need to adjust your throttle blade so the IAC is 3-5% at hot idle. That will give it the most range to catch the motor returning to idle. I think I have my idle ramp down around 1000rpm above idle.
The problem is that a decision seems to be made on power up as to which way the IAC moves. It's important to note that the computer will go between these 2 with no change other than a power cycle.
Scenario A: IAC is <10 steps from 0 (full open) at idle and closes as throttle is applied. Everything is happy.
Scenario 2: IAC is >80 steps from 0 (about 50% closed, currently) at idle and opens with throttle. Car only runs with throttle and chokes itself off at idle.
Adjusting the throttle blade can help with Scenario 2 but if the computer decides to go with Scenario A then I get a 1300-1500rpm idle and the volume of air through the throttle shrieks at ear splitting volume. The true fix is to figure out what is screwing with the IAC but in the interim I think I'll send it closed, unplug it, and adjust the blade for idle.
Error404 said:It's easier to want to work on a project that looks like it's ready to drive if you just fix that thing than it is one that's acting as a dirty storage locker.
I'm feeling this right now as well. Just had to let go of some self imposed deadlines, clean the shop/car, and take care of a bit of life before moving forward. Glad to see you're still making progress on this thing!
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