Left side is gonna get wild? This isn't another circle track car. You have to turn right too. Or is that where you plan to add ballast to offset the crazy position of that modular boat anchor?
Left side is gonna get wild? This isn't another circle track car. You have to turn right too. Or is that where you plan to add ballast to offset the crazy position of that modular boat anchor?
Stampie (FS) said:In reply to gumby (Forum Supporter) :
You know OEM brakes are free to budget. No need to run without rears.
Dude free line locks.
bobzilla said:Stampie (FS) said:In reply to gumby (Forum Supporter) :
You know OEM brakes are free to budget. No need to run without rears.
Dude free line locks.
Plus, less rotating mass. Win-Win
Tell me about the awesome fish-mouth cut-outs on that upper tie rod. How are you making that cut?
Super cool load path on those welds.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
I use a holesaw notcher for coping tube.
https://www.jd2.com/notch-master
Big step up from just a bench grinder, but the grinder still gets used to tweak fits and clearance the edges of node copes that land on multiple tubes
Maybe someday I can get a MB notcher for home
https://www.mittlerbros.com/ultimate-tube-notcher-single-speed.html
Sorry, I realized you may have been referring to the notches on the ends on the 3rd link where the threaded bungs are inserted and was typing an edit just as you clarified!
For those I drill a hole near the end of the tube, ala a rosette or plug weld, then cut from the end of the tube to the edges of the hole and remove that material.
I'm sorry....yes I am, but your upper rear suspension link to the base of your un gusseted roll bar execution is asking for a major head bump/roll cage failure when the pedal is mashed.....be safe....please
759NRNG (Forum Partidario) said:I'm sorry....yes I am, but your upper rear suspension link to the base of your un gusseted roll bar execution is asking for a major head bump/roll cage failure when the pedal is mashed.....be safe....please
I'm no engineer but I'm pretty sure this cage is far far far from being completed yet. One of us (not me) does this type of thing for a living so I'll trust him on that.
Is the body going to be a permanent installation, or are do you have plans to make the body/cage junctions bolt on?
In reply to bobzilla :
It was a team effort. Two of those pics belong to CB
In reply to MrJoshua :
With no other means to access the bits underneath, the body will be removable.
Outstanding progress. Gonna be a nifty little critter. I know zero about frame building. I have a question though, concerning the rear. What prevents the rear from walking sideways? Seems like a lot of stress on those attachment points. Does the addition of springs/coil overs spread it out?
In reply to Dirtydog (Forum Supporter) :
After several conversations about which solution to implement, there is lateral location in the works for the rear axle. Just haven't put anything into metal yet.
MrJoshua said:Is the body going to be a permanent installation, or are do you have plans to make the body/cage junctions bolt on?
Unless they cut metal or fiberglass, that body looks 'captured' to me too.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:MrJoshua said:Is the body going to be a permanent installation, or are do you have plans to make the body/cage junctions bolt on?
Unless they cut metal or fiberglass, that body looks 'captured' to me too.
That's what I was thinking but Gumby says:
In reply to MrJoshua :
With no other means to access the bits underneath, the body will be removable.
I am intrigued!
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:MrJoshua said:Is the body going to be a permanent installation, or are do you have plans to make the body/cage junctions bolt on?
Unless they cut metal or fiberglass, that body looks 'captured' to me too.
Looks to me like that cage tube is just test fit, not welded in. I'm guessing a slot in the fiberglass is upcoming.
Project looks great, btw!
Locked down the rear cage stays today, so notching the body for those will happen next time it is fitted.
Also, knocked out the left side lower support; looking like Craigslist Missed Connections with the panhard upright bisecting the diagonal.
Two weeks ago we set a goal. Friday and today were long days, but we accomplished our goal.
While I had my hood down welding the chassis thus far, Bob and CB worked on various odds and ends like re-gearing the axle with a 4.10 and Trac-lok from a junkyard Ranger, shock mounts, and steering shenanigans. Only a few pics from these happenings, but they really did happen.
We also moved the Unicorn Nub from the top of the differential to a repurposed bracket, newly located to the right axle tube.
The Unicorn Nub, originally the center pickup point of the watts link, was 16mm. This is close enough to ⅝" if you are tossing a washer on something, but I had to shave the shank down a touch to fit the ⅝" rod end for our PHB.
We will be using an electric power assisted steering(EPAS) column so the rack came apart to be de-powered. Part of that process is welding up the spool valve on the pinion
With that done, we moved to springs and things. The Rancho rear shocks measured 2" on the main body, but actually had a weld and a swedged area that needed to be massaged before a chunk of 2.25"x0.120" would slide over them
Then the mock PHB was installed
And some upper shock mounts created
Moving to the front once again, we built some shark-finned upper shock mounts, and got the coilovers installed there too
Achievement Unlocked: Brad has attained roller status
Yes, of course we broke out the scales....
Bare chassis plus R&P - 347lbs
Chassis roller - 874lbs
We are taking a couple weeks off this project.
Don't forget us.
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