R63 AMG The Unicorn of my Destruction

mazdeuce wrote: Tools came!Yay! If you look at the actual parts list you're also supposed to order a threaded pin. I didn't notice that. The threaded pin connects the insert to the slide hammer. I accomplished this with a M8x1.0 bolt with the head cut off with the Dremel tool. Wouldn't be a proper automotive fixit without the Dremel. Then I had these two pins to pull. They're M6x1.0. I used the bolt with washers and socket trick mentioned earlier.

Am I the only one sat here chuckling to myself that to fix a Mercedes engine due to the head coming off a bolt, one critical step is to cut the head off another bolt Hit's play on Alanis Morissette.

I'd definitely clean that carbon out. No need to get it spotless, but remove whatever can be removed easily.

Installation is the reverse of removal...?

NOHOME wrote: I have to say that I was surprised that there was any significant carbon build up. Is it possible the antifreeze messed with the O2 sensors to the point where the ECU added more fuel to the game?

I doubt it. It probably ran less than five minutes total between when the bolt let go and now. I don't think that's enough time to deposit that much carbon. I never did get an 02 code either. So far anyway.

Sky_Render wrote: Installation is the reverse of removal...?

Largely, yes. If everything else checks out OK then I'm at the "what do I replace" point. New head bolts and gaskets, maybe the lifters (or are they tappets?) That are also known to go bad. Timing guides? Timing chain? I need to do something about the broken boss on the intake manifold. A new (used) one isn't cheap. The dealership suggested new cam phasers but those are over $2k and aren't that hard to replace in the future if need be. But if they're known to fail......The plastic accordion thing at the back of the intake. Certainly valve cover seals because the passenger side was leaking. Water pump gasket. I need to make a list.

rslifkin wrote: I'd definitely clean that carbon out. No need to get it spotless, but remove whatever can be removed easily.

Any concern about mushing it between the pistons and cylinder walls? Clearly I should try and avoid it but some is bound to fall in the gap.

mazdeuce wrote: Any concern about mushing it between the pistons and cylinder walls? Clearly I should try and avoid it but some is bound to fall in the gap.

I always just clean things out as best I can, then soak the insides of the cylinders down with WD-40 and wipe clean again, trying to get as much out from around the ring area as I can. I'm sure a little bit stays in there, but I've never seen it scratch a cylinder wall or anything. Making the carbon oily with the WD-40 should soften up anything that gets stuck down there anyway.

I do love WD-40.

Scrape dry, vacuum, then wipe down with WD40 or some sort of solvent.

Ian F wrote: Scrape dry, vacuum, then wipe down with WD40 or some sort of solvent.

That'll do it. As a personal thing, all cylinders get wiped with some kind of oily substance (including letting some soak down into the rings) before the engine goes back together (especially after cleaning with any solvent). Dry rings and cylinder walls are no good.

Plus, an engine with a little oil in the rings / on the walls usually has better compression to help it light off on the first start. Last time I had the heads off the Jeep, the first start after reassembly had me thinking "holy crap, it never starts that fast even if it's warm!"

mazdeuce wrote: I suspect PCV. The intake manifold is gross. I'll do a bit more poking around on stuff. Still kind of want to reassemble with a supercharger.

Make it so!

Awww yea no damage and disassembly porn. Happy for you that a rod wasn't bent.

When I used to top end inspections on Rotax914s (and I did a whole lot of them) we'd use a white Roloc brush on a right angle Dotco to remove the carbon from the piston faces. If you don't press hard it took a lot of carbon off without much effort, polished everything, and left the part number and serials stamped on the faces intact.

We'd flush around the rings and lubricate everything with WD40 and put the heads back. Our procedure, niche application, never called for removing the cylinders so I never did unless we busted a ring. Worked really well. I just changed the oil after the first run-up when we swapped it to a new airplane.

If you've got all kinds of crap in the intake I'd plumb in a catch can. Worked really well on the MS3 so now I'm a huge fan of them on everything.

Just read the whole thread to this point and its quite the adventure. Not surprised the bottom end is fine after eating some coolant. I have had some motors eat a gallon of coolant at wot and no bottom issues whatsoever.

Wish you luck with the rest of this and sticking with cpo Honda Odysseys.

It's always more fun to suffer with people reading along than it is to suffer alone. This is what makes the build threads forum of GRM one of the greatest places on the internet.

Happy to see all the good news. I hope everything goes well in reassembly.

This Thread is now internet Famous.

Road and Track Posting

In reply to spacecadet: Beat me too it!!

R&T link

And just to give the origional Opposite Lock article it's credit.

The internet is fun.

In reply to Flight Service:

I was literally messaging with Mazdadeuce when it came across my newsfeed...I about fell out of my chair...the internet is a funny place.

You should ask Oppo and R&T for a share of their ad revenue from the story to help offset the costs

Now where's the semi famous people on GRM thread gone, you need to update yourself Mr. 5 mins of fame

The great tragedy of fame could be the origional owner figuring out that they're still paying for my XM.
I will be very sad if my free radio is gone when I fire it back up.

Now that you're internet famous, it's getting harder to make a case against a supercharger.

"I NEED to put on a supercharger, the internet wants me to."

I'll let you know how that goes.

I have a vortech....

A supercharger is cheaper than a new mercedes!