Zero leaks (yay!) but DANG is the turning radius even worse! This truck turned like the Queen Mary (the ocean liner, not the Royal Monarch), now it turns like the Titanic heading toward an iceberg.
It turns out Ford puts these limiters inside which reduces the actual movement of the rack. Removing them turned my quick-ratio 2.5-turn lock-to-lock steering rack into a 3.0 turn rack. Just like I had. I feel cheated.
In reply to SkinnyG :
Well that's sucky. How lame of Ford
I guess I could shorten the steering arms for more lock, but I'm pretty sketched out about welding that. Especially with dubious aftermarket dropped spindles. I'll weld a lot of things, but probably not that.
Gratuitous spacer image:
Refresh my memory, what spindles are you running in the front again?
If it's a generic C10 drop spindle, Willwood makes some nice ones with bolt on steering arms. Like this one - random link from google
I believe they are 88-98 DJM 2" spindles. I checked up on Wilwood - they do not offer a removable steering arm on the OBS spindles.
I could always fabricate my own entire spindle if it offends me enough.
Or go totally hack, gouge out the crossmember, and move the rack back as far as possible.
Not sure either effort is worth it.
Removed the "press-in" air tee's and replaced them with push-to-connect tee's (they restrict the air far less). Marginal (minimal? negligible?) improvement in air up speed.
Aftermarket suppliers tend to take a few liberties with application catalogs. Sounds like you found the short end of that on your steering rack. Adding limiter bushings to simulate the lock to lock of a faster rack is pretty crappy.
Factory racks do indeed have different ratios, base vs GT; and different T-bars in the spool valve for Cobras too. Finding these in aftermarket form, new or reman, can be difficult. Best to physically measure inches of rack movement per input revolution to ensure you get what you're paying for.
Always good to see this on page 1
The rack spacer conundrum is rough! I feel your pain
Nice sunny 8°C today.
Took the truck out for 45 minutes of driving. Low boost (5psi), just tuning.
This is a Gen3, P59 PCM, converted to boost-referenced fuel pressure and Speed-Density.
While I did, in fact, set the Injector Flow rate to be constant, I did not set the Injector Flow offset (with respect to MAP and Voltage). So.... I leveled the table (same offset column from 0kPa to 80kPa), and datalogged.
Big whoop-de-do. VE needed less than 2% correction.
Couple of days and I'll add a few clicks to the boost tee and datalog some more.
New shirt in my Merch Store. Gotta prepare for retirement/next-car-build somehow...
Finicky little fittings, and cheap/garbage A/C compressor adapters. Didn't quite get this one to seal I guess.
Took my sweet time tightening this one - snug the nut hand-tight, then wiggle the fitting, then tighten some more, then wiggle. Held a vacuum overnight, so I charged it up and it blows cold.
.... for now.
Today in loading up all the de-thatched lawn clippings to take them to the dump, the door I opened had apparently lost its limiting pin, swung a bit TOO open, and chipped the paint on the door and side cowl panel. Just wee chips, but chips nonetheless.
Grrr.
On one hand, I can fix it, however, it might be healthier to just let it go, and resign myself that any vehicle that is being used is going to get chips.
In reply to SkinnyG :
Cars are like books: Every blemish on the truck is a word or sentence of its new story.
Finally got around to making seatbelt retractor covers. Honda Civic seat belts are usually tucked into the B-pillar. Here, they're out in the open.
Found a neat feature on my 3D printer called Fuzz, which allows you to create a slightly textured surface, which looks a whole lot less like "fresh off someone's home 3D Printer. I like it.
Old and busted:
New hotness:
I also beat on the door seal flange and got the doors to close a bit better. Including removing the "sleeve" at the bottom joining the seal ends.
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