Small turbo motor with auto rwd trans

I have a Chevy cobalt 2.0t lnf motor and I've found the 5l40e rwd automatic that is the same setup as a Saturn sky.  260hp and torque with very high tunes available.

The 2000lbs rwd 1973 opel gt is ready to go and I made a subframe so I can fit an ecotec lower down.  It's nagging me that the power to weight is pretty high for my light car.  I never wanted a super powerful car to start with.  Just a daily driver.  I probably never need a tune but it is an option for later if I change my mind.

The Chevy sonic or cruze 1.4t is a really nice motor that should make more than enough power at a maximum 250hp with the tune if I wanted it.  The issue is trying to use an automatic rwd transmission with it.  A 1993 s10 bellhousing for a t5 will bolt up so i don't think it would be an issue to use the 4 speed auto.  I'd rather try to find a 5 or 6 speed auto.  Does anyone know if there is a way to tune the ecu to work with a tcu?

I've been told that a 700 transmission is mechanical so doesn't need to get input from the ecu.  I'm not sure how that would work though.  If it changes itself, wouldn't the ecu freak out if it doesn't talk to a tcm?

The only other option for a small turbo engine with a rwd auto transmission is a bmw 118i thats the same in mini coopers.  It's a 1.5t 3 cylinder but some are saying the engine isn't very good and will blow up if tuned to over 200hp. There are others that say they have been driving for years on a 250hp tune.  My goal would be 250hp like what the 1.4t can easily produce.  I read on there that it has a place for a second fuel line.  With a bigger turbo, i think it might be true that it can get past 300hp and torque without changing internals so the next person that owns the car has the option.

I have issues with my left hip so I don't want a clutch anymore with a standard.  The other reason for an automatic transmission,  it can be moved forward or backwards in the tunnel.  A standard's shifter is a big problem because I sit really close to the steering wheel and would need the shifter up where the stock one is.  To do that the motor and transmission would need to be sitting alot more forward in the engine bay compared to using an automatic that uses an electronic shifter that will allow the transmission to sit as far back as possible for good weight distribution. 

The power to weight ratio is 8:1 so will be closer the higher end sports car amount.  Newer motors have high torque so I think, even though it will still have wheel spin that i dont want, it shouldn't be too bad for daily driving a rwd light car.

Am I overthinking this?  I can get a cheap 1.5t from a mini cooper and transmissions for bmw's are plentiful.  The 2.0t is more expensive but i wouldn't need a tune so in the end would be about the same cost.  The space in the engine bay will barely fit the 2.0t or might need some fabrication for the the manifolds.  The 1.5t should be easier.  I would be able to slide it forward alittle if I need to for clearance since it's shorter. 

I won't consider a standard transmission and I won't go for anything higher than a 2.0t.  I'm going to buy one of these on Saturday.  I hope I can get some unbiased opinions before then.

Thanks

I don't recall the 1.4t having a bellhousing remotely like the Metric (aka 60º V6) bolt pattern.  Let me look up some photos...

I am not sure that there is a 5/6speed auto in the GM inventory that even has the 60 degree pattern.  Maaaaybe from a rear drive Caddy STS if that exists, since they used Northstars.  GM has a pretty good likelihood of using the same CAN messaging in everything so it might work.

The 3.6 bellhousing is way different, too.

My personal idea of the week is a Volvo 1.9t from an early S40 mated to a 960 transmission, which is basically a Toyota A341.  I'm pretty sure I can use the rods and pistons from an S60R engine to make a beefy 8.5:1 boost friendly bottom end.

I believe the dowels are in the same location, but tilted between this pattern and the 60 degree pattern.  But not any of the bolt holes except the dowels.

There are plenty of rwd 60 degree automatics (camaro, and s10 come to mind).

I would think the easy solution is an NA ecotech and auto out of a sky or solstice.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

Sympathizing with the OP, the Ecotec engines are kinda big and they drive like truck engines.  They work well but they don't have the right feel for a light application.

The 1993 s10 2.2 4 cylinder bellhousibg is the same as a isuzu amigo bellhousing that someone already used on his 1.4t with a t5.

I want the automatic bellhousing.

I just learned i can get a shift controller so I can use a newer rwd automatic transmission.  Now I need to find out if I can have the tuner remove the transmission programming from the ecu so it won't throw codes.  This would be alot easier if I could buy a 5l40 from the solstice that I'm also looking at for the 2.0t motor.  I would love it if I can find a 6l45.  I know megasquirt is able to control many engines and transmissions like their mega shift for standalone transmissions. It boggles my mind that I can't find anyone that can make a tune for an ecotec that is gdi but can do it for an efi...

I'm hoping some of you might know someone out there that is willing to make a tune for the 1.4t with a 5 or 6 speed auto rwd.  It's not popular since everyone wants a standard but there is a niche for people that can't or done want to drive stick anymore.  Frankly I'm sure there are many that would love a standalone controller that would allow us to use it like a semi auto so we control the up and downshifts.

The old beetle semi stick design should be brought back with more gears and od IMHO. 

I hope someone can get back to me if they find a tuner.  I'm so close to the next stage of the car build...

Thanks

Megashift can not do any clutch-to-clutch transmissions, which are pretty much all transmissions with more than 4 speeds.  It doesn't have the ability to tightly time multiple solenoids to release one clutch at the same time another engages.  The transmissions it can control are all of the type where a shift is effected by engaging or disengaging a single solenoid.  The 5L40 is an outlier because it isn't a clutch-to-clutch trans.

The 5R45/5R55 from a Ranger and other Ford products, for example, is a no-go because it's a 4 speed trans that gained an extra gear by engaging overdrive in 1st gear.  This means that shifting to 3rd requires releasing overdrive while engaging the old 2nd, precisely timed.  (You can apparently can control one as a 4 speed, though)  Ford came up with the trans only after they could get powerful enough computers and control logic to handle this.