Too bad IDSPISPOPD is too long, it would work with your volvo plate
Too bad IDSPISPOPD is too long, it would work with your volvo plate
Patrick said:Too bad IDSPISPOPD is too long, it would work with your volvo plate
NOCLIP would be a better one, although only for the black one, and that thing is keeping its B-series bicentennial plate as long as possible.
They say to not remove the old stickers, but I got that plate in 2001. The sticker pack would be a half inch of goo if I hadn't "cut the deck" a few years ago.
My trailer plate has over 1/4" of stickers stacked up, i think i got that one in 2002.
Well, this was good and also a bit scary.
On a whim, I dug out the dial indicator again, found the high and low spots for the driveshaft pilot, checked about thirteen times to verify I was looking at the "high spot" and "low spot" correctly, set it so the "high spot" was pointing down, stuck te floor jack under it and actually lifted the rearend off the stands slightly by the pinion, loosened the pinion nut and retightened it, and rechecked.
TIR is now around .002". I don't know if it's just closer, or went the other way, or what, because I wiped the markings and to be honest by brain was getting screwed up by the numbers. But I'll be happy with .002". Let's see if the drivetrain will be happy.
Still to do: Drop fuel tank and clean out. Replace fuel pump. Remove fuel rail and clean out fuel injectors. Fix throttle body, or dig up a S4 N/A intake manifold and install. (They are really, really good manifolds) Install new wideband controller. Install new battery. Replace clutch disk and pressure plate, have flywheel machined to verrify flatness, and put in a different transmission. In that order, this transmission died largely because the clutch does not want to disengage. Oh yeah, I think I have a new master and slave on the shelf, should install those too, maybe.
I gotta ask cause im nosy:
What happened with the volvo? Dead hole story....
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Ignition coil failed. New coil and it's htting on all five.
Now, the bummer: Ever since that incident, it's been blowing the dipstick out, and it is also very lightly pumping combustion into the cooling system, as verified by block check this morning. Not anywhere near as severe as before, just enough to make the coolant a little foamy.
This has me most disconcerted.
I freakin' LOVE the car, and I literally can not think of any car that I could buy at any price that I would be happier with. Maaaybe an Audi RS3, but they don't have the towing capacity. Also those are still way out of my budget. But this engine issue has got to stop.
Current plan is to just baby it along and get at least one of the RX-7s reliably functioning first. The end of salt season is just around the corner. Because of my utter lack of ability to find 12A bits, this probably means rebuilding the 13B in the red car and keeping on chugging with it, because it has air conditioning and a quiet exhaust and the black car does not.
I have acheved peak berkit with Allied Auto Salvage. I have started a return procedure with PayPal. They have three business days to get back to me, through official channels.
Knurled. said:I have acheved peak berkit with Allied Auto Salvage. I have started a return procedure with PayPal. They have three business days to get back to me, through official channels.
berkeley em if they haven't made it right by now
In reply to Patrick :
I just finished reassembling all the accessories on the engine.
Same color, same roof rack, same craptacular E-code headlights that I am not sure I will sell on eBay for $bank or smash with glee to prevent them from infecting some other car. Twice as many valves though, which is fine because my power goal is half as much. US 10v dyno record is 369whp, which is a pretty low bar to jump over given that Hestec has done 700whp with a 10v.
The saga, condensed from the minor rant thread, is that on Saturday the Volvo started a new habit of having a cold start misfire that clears out with throttle application, punctuated by blue smoke. Did this in the morning when I left for Summit to spend $200 on frame rail makings, a new fuel pump, and the trickle chargers that I said I was going to permanently mount to the RX-7s but never did.
Did the cold miss / voom! / smoke thing again when leaving Summit an hour later. Ut-oh. Made my way to work, pulled a pending code for cold start misfire in cylinder 3 (MAN I love OBD-II), let the car sit for an hour under its own pressure, and used the scope to see about a teaspoon of coolant on the piston. Lovely.
Should mention that I leak-down tested some of the cylinders and found near zero leakage all the way up to near TDC, where it would get as high as 30%. There's my dipstick issue. I guess I should not have shimmed distorted bores. Live and learn, although I kind of had a feeling this might happen, and the plan was to just drive it and let it sort itself out.
No cracked liner visible with the scope, so I bought some Blue Devil ($42) and ran the process. At which point the car ate a headlight bulb at random ($95, my cost, OUCH)
It was fine when I picked the car up on Sunday, it was fine this morning, I could smell coolant somehow when I did a long boost pull up a certain hill on my commute (is 19 miles long enough to be called a commute?) but it was fine when I went to lunch. Fingers crossed but I don't think the engine should buy any unripe bananas.
Manual trans all wheel drive S40 for sale on Swedespeed in the cheap range. Dammitalltohell. It had better be really far away.
Knurled. said:Manual trans all wheel drive S40 for sale on Swedespeed in the cheap range. Dammitalltohell. It had better be really far away.
If only there were a GRMer in Jacksonville with experience procuring cars for a fly and drive and you had a free week coming up...
In reply to EvanB :
If only someone would buy half my cars or even the S60R at this point
I COULD send the flywheel out to be machined, to verify that it is flat. But I have a better idea.
Years ago, there was a company that sold special "machining pads" for cars with captivated rotors. The idea was, instead of disassembling the front suspension to replace the rotors, or buying an expensive on-car brake lathe, you would install these tools that looked like a really coarse file or broach on a brake pad backing plate, and you'd drive the car and apply the brakes a few times, bring the car back in, install new pads, and you're done.
With this in mind, I scoured the Internet until I found a "machining clutch".
In all seriousness, the black car came with an ACT extreme 6-puck unsprung clutch with a super heavy duty pressure plate. (On a stock 12A) I didn't really like the super long clutch pedal stroke on that pressure plate, so eventually I started using a stock pressure plate with the puck disk. The pedal feel was extremely light and you could disengage the clutch with like an inch of travel. I loved it.
I stopped using it because unsprung disks kill transmissions. I didn't make that connection until talking with an old racer who said they stopped using solid centers in the 60s because the instantaneous shock loadings were twisting the input shafts on their T10s. My trans life went up markedly but I always missed that light pedal feel and lightswitch clutch disengagement.
So, getting a 4 puck with a sprung center has been something I have wanted to do for a long time. Now that I am in need of a clutch again, it was time to pull that trigger. I went with a 4 because the 6 puck is HEAVY, and that makes life unhappy for the synchros.
I forgot the best part about the puck clutch, especially with the OE pressure plate. It was also a light switch to engage. Hair trigger engagement. I got SO many of my friends to embarass themselves! It was HILARIOUS every time I had someone else drive the car.
Me: The clutch is pretty sensitive
Other guy: I know how to drive stick, dude, I'll be fine
Me: Not doubting you. Just letting you know, it's pretty sensitive
Other guy: D00D I am not a failnewb, I got this
(Brap brap brap brap *stall*. Rrr-rr-rr-BRAPbrap brap brap brap brap *stall*. Etc)
Puck clutches do not slip. They are either engaged, or disengaged, and there is a hairtrigger between the two. I actually kinda like that, and with a little practice you can work with it. When the clutch IS slipping, however, the clutch does not wear as much as the flywheel and pressure plate do. And it makes a really bad grinding-brake noise.
I run a solid hub, sintered copper puck clutch behind my 2.3T. I typically see a 2:1 ratio of flywheel and pressure plate to disc replacement. Thankfully it has not eaten any transmissions.
In reply to gumby :
The shock loadings I subject the drivetrain to were hammering everything in the transmission.
My last clutch disk beat the springs out of the center. They didn't fall out yet, I was able to see the impending failure while in there for other reasons. I have a stock disk from one of my engine cores in there now, but I think it might be warped. Not getting full disengagement, which makes shifting at high speed very crunchy.
Knurled. said:Still to do: Drop fuel tank and clean out. Replace fuel pump. Remove fuel rail and clean out fuel injectors. Fix throttle body, or dig up a S4 N/A intake manifold and install. (They are really, really good manifolds) Install new wideband controller. Install new battery. Replace clutch disk and pressure plate, have flywheel machined to verrify flatness, and put in a different transmission. In that order, this transmission died largely because the clutch does not want to disengage. Oh yeah, I think I have a new master and slave on the shelf, should install those too, maybe.
I have an S4 upper intake and throttle body and a slave cyl (new) and an NA FC trans and probably a few other FC parts stashed away...
Knurled. said:
Current plan is to just baby it along and get at least one of the RX-7s reliably functioning first. The end of salt season is just around the corner. Because of my utter lack of ability to find 12A bits, this probably means rebuilding the 13B in the red car and keeping on chugging with it, because it has air conditioning and a quiet exhaust and the black car does not.
I also have a running '85 FB. It was my daily for many many miles, 220k+ on the odo. The chassis is probably nothing you would want to bother with but I can get a compression check on the engine (12A) if you are interested. I swapped engines a couple years ago and decided to get a more reasonable daily driver. It has mostly sat since. Oh, it has a recently rebuilt rear axle with a Miata Torsen Type II diff.
C OVID nothin' else going on recap video: 2011 RXNC, when me and my co-driver were 1st and 2nd fastest RWD in Mod 2WD. The last year that Mod wasn't split between FWD and RWD because nobody rallycrossed rear drivers.
Guitar loop is Slayer's "Black Magic". I was doing Slayer music-overs before K*n Bl*ck made it cool.
Battery was dead, acquired a better one, it won't hold a charge for longer than a day. Bought a NEW battery (Interstate) opting for a Group 34 because it had the highest reserve capacity that would fit in my battery box.
Since the engine kept lean-stalling, which makes trying to drive with a crap battery a bad idea, I decided to pull the fuel injectors and clean out any crud sitting on top of the screens.
Problem #1. There were no screens. Any junk that made it past the fuel filter after it went into self bypass mode, would have gone through the injectors. Ugh. Well, I am not making enough power to NEED 1100cc of injector per rotor, so I'll go back to the GSL-SE 680cc injectors, which I also know how to set up with respect to deadtime and such.
Noodling a bit more, I also decided that I would like to modify the intake manifold for an air bleed for the injectors. I did this on my first Holley manifold, so worth it. So I pulled the Holley off, dug around for my 6mm Allen so I could pull the intake off the engine, and was greeted by the worst sight imaginable. Let's call this Problem #2.
That stuff is dirt. Intake manifold is full of dirt. Big fugly clods of dirt. What you are seeing is lapping paste wrecking my side seals and side housings.
I feel real sick right now.
I siliconed every gasket surface, smoke tested the intake path thoroughly to try to find any leaks, and none were found. I think I found the culprit though: My old 3310 Holley's base plate has extreme play in the throttle shafts. That'd probably also be why I could not get the idle below 1200. I think that carburetor is finally "done" after who knows how long on my second Thunderbird, and then on the RX-7 since 2012.
I happen to have another 3310, but it is in my storage locker, which I could not access due to the gate malfunctioning. More argh.
As the Malört saying goes, these pants aren't going to E36 M3 themselves
Blob of weld goes here:
And a 4160 baseplate is converted to 1:1 throttle action.
Before I can drive the RX-7 I have to replace the fuel injectors with something I know I can tune, before I can replace the fuel injectors I have to sort the carburetor and the failed wideband.
No pictures, removed the MTX-L and installed the AEM. AEM installed waaaay easier than the Innovate, the wiring harness is much better laid out and muchmuch longer, so I could route the wiring with the tach wiring bundle under the driver side of the dash and then under the center console to meet up with my auxiliary fusebox and Megasquirt subharness. The Innovate was banjo tight across the center stack and ziptied to the center air vents.
Pictures, did the thing I was dreading: installing a TPS on the new Holley baseplate. My old TPS setup used a Ford 4.6 unit on some notches I ground into the end of the throttle shaft, and a bracket that tied into the carb mounting bolts. So it had to be disturbed every time the carb came off and the TPS settings would change. I wanted to do it Better, and found a Holley TPS system at Summit for $50 in Feb. 2018, according to the bag. Let's see how it fits.
Well, that's crappy. It attaches to the choke mechanism that no longer exists, and it sits halfway into the water pump.
Time to get fabby.
As they say at BlendTec, "Don't breathe this..."
And done!
3 hours condensed into a short post. Not pictured: Lots and lots and LOTS of verifying straightness and concentricity, trying to find a pair of 8-32 screws in an import specialist shop
Now, on to the intake manifold!
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