The CAM-Z: autocrossing a Z28

Well, I took a mental health day today, to prevent a workplace massacre. While I was home I decided to go wrench on the beast. the new hardware had arrived for the trailing arms so I figured to start there.

Got the car jacked up and liberally soaked the bolts with liquid nutbuster. Surprisingly they came free pretty easily.

Here's a pic of the new CL arms next to the stockers.

Surprisingly the stock arms have been boxed. M<aybe I can make a few bucks trading those off.

And here they are installed:

Only took about an hour to install both sides in the parking lot so, I guess all is well.

Those look nice! Do they change the geometry, or just tighten things up a bit?

Those made a bit of a difference. I imagine it was mostly from the bushings, but I'll take any improvement I can get. Those sway bar end links were berked, so I'll probably swap them out on payday.

In the 5 minutes I was blasting around the neigborhood the fed ex guy arrived and was leaving without delivering my package... I had to chase him down.

In case you were wondering, an '84 Z28 can both outrun and out-handle a fed-ex truck. It may not sound that impressive, but I got my package today.

I've also chased down ice cream trucks...

That being said here's the haul:

the stickers were just there to get me over the $100 free shipping barrier. got me to $100.01. Job done. It's all the brakets and whatnot to get me on the road.

Billet inline filter

700R4 kickdown lever and bracket and this really trick return spring setup.

I now fear that I won't be able to return the spring setup

In reply to Pete Gossett:

The geometry is the same, they just don't flex like the stock stamped ones. I'm hoping they'll reduce my wheelhop issue.

I've ordered a universal air cleaner drop base off bay. It was cheap enough to risk. It should give me some idea if I'm on the right track or if I'll need a taller hood...

I still have issues with the new fuel lines. The plan was to run int inline billet AN fuel filter, then add a barbed fitting and attach to the factory hardline using a section of rubber hose, but that plan went to hell when I test fitted the carb. The fuel line runs into the back of the alternator.

Carp.

This really leaves me with four options, with only two of them being realistic.

1. Run without a fuel filter.

No. Just no.

1. Get a new accessory drive setup that relocates the alternator.

Yeah, that would work, but it would also cost at least two dollar signs. Maybe three.

1. Find a tight radius 90 degree AN fitting and hopefully clear the alternator, then run AN braided line all the way to the pump.

While this is the ultimate plan, I wanted to get this thing running sooner rather than later. I haven't figured out the outlet size of the fuel pump yet and will need an AN adapter for it.

1. Turn the fuel lines on the carb around, so they feed from the rear. Then attach a 180 degree fitting and run the fuel lines parallel to the inlet lines.

This would work, but still requires buying at least one more fitting.

I guess I'm in a holding pattern right now until more money arrives. Might tackle the water pump today.

In reply to AClockworkGarage:

Do you need to keep the AN fittings? Autozone sells a Holley fuel rail/hose for about $20 that's pretty short. It has a barbed end that stops about the same point as the front of the primary bowl, still leaving a couple inches before the front of the engine.

Big progress.

drove out to a local speed shop this morning (side note, I discovered a local speed shop today!) and picked up a -6 AN swivel 90. $17. sigh...

I got home and had no excuses. I started stripping of the cursed carb and the alternator to allow access to the fuel line.

yikes...

I mounted the carb on the motor. note how the new fittings and the old fuel lines pass one another.

I will cut the hardline and join the two lines with a section of fuel injection line.

That doesn't look deadly at all... It does clear the alternator, but only just. It's good enough to get the car running in time for the next race, but it will be replaced.

the plan will be to run braided AN lines over the valve cover and down to the pump, mounting it to a bracket under the Alternator to keep it clear of the header, but for now the rubber line will do.

The new carb didn't have a port for a PCV, so I just mounted a breather on the valve cover.

And here's where she sits right now:

Oh... and she runs. Well. I haven't driven her yet, as the TV cable is too long, but that's really the only thing keeping me from terrorizing the neighborhood.

I've got a cheapie drop base air cleaner on it's way, and hopefully that will fit. I really don't want to get away from the flat hood.

Ok, got the cable to fit using a screw on cable stop but I need to go over whe whole adjustment procedure now. After a quick test drive it didn't want to shift to second, and only actually shifted once...

It's also absurdly rich and dies every time I slow down for a corner.

Now begins the tuning... blah.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO... Does it fit?

Yup.

In reply to AClockworkGarage:

Ooh, nice! I may have to order one for the Vette. I really need more than a 2" filter on it.

I would too (in fact I did) other than the seller promising 2-3 day shipping, then getting it 7 days later it was a win all around. This was where I got it from.

I contacted holley with as many of my engine and carb specs and asked them what they would recommend as a baseline for me, since the carb was setup for a mopar 360. They recommended a new power valve and some air bleed and jet changes so I tackled those today. I don't expect it to be perfect, but It'll at least be a good place to start from.

Haven't been able to test drive it yet because, I wanted to replace the fuel line as well. I pulled the old line off and went to attach the adapter for my braided line. They're not the same... I have no idea what it is.

the adaptor is a 3/8 npt. the original one, who knows. the threads seem the same, they're both 3/8. I even took them to a hardware store and they both threaded into the same pipe... my local speed shop closed 57 minutes ago and is closed tomorrow, so I'm pretty much stopped for the weekend...

I really like that drop base. I have one on my Firebird, but you're looks lower. (and not cheesy chrome). Can you give me an idea of where on the bay you found it? part #? Great to see the progress!

Gearheadotaku wrote: I really like that drop base. I have one on my Firebird, but you're looks lower. (and not cheesy chrome).

You know, I hate chrome. I posted the before and after images of my chrome to black air cleaner lid on my local 3rd gen group on facebonk, using the phrase "chrome is for trailer hitches and trailer parks" and they got offended and blocked me from the group. I'll never understand those people. Probably because my parents were not related...

The pan was simply an $18 fleabay special. There's a link above in my response to Pete.

AClockworkGarage wrote: You know, I hate chrome. I posted the before and after images of my chrome to black air cleaner lid on my local 3rd gen group on facebonk, using the phrase "chrome is for trailer hitches and trailer parks" and they got offended and blocked me from the group. I'll never understand those people. Probably because my parents were not related...

Maybe your comment hit a little too close to home - literally?

Had the carb off today for the rejet. took a couple comparo pics for you guys.

The first is the normal parts store Mr Gasket base with a 2 inch filter.

And this is the drop base with a 3 inch filter.

looks like It sits about a half inch lower while gaining filter area.

I dropped the carb on with the old fuel line and took it for a drive. massive hesitation going WOT. Like a 4 banger with a giant turbo. Still wants to die when stopping. Pretty much at a standstill for a while.

My job cut all overtime indefinitely. I worked 50-60 hours a week. My disposable income is all but gone. I had to return my timing light and vacum gage last week, so until I find a better job and buy a new one... this carb isn't getting tuned.

In reply to AClockworkGarage:

Ouch. Sorry to hear that! Let me check my old timing light, I'm pretty sure it still works, and if it does you're welcome to it for free.

Thanks, but I think I'll be ok. I have an awesome job interview coming up. I'd love to tell you where but I don't want to jinx it.

I got my last fitting today and got the carb plumbed up proper.

I may try an 18 inch hose in the future, and route it closer to the alternator, but right now I don't have the scratch, so it'll do for now.

Still diggin the build. Good luck on the interview man

It has been oppressively hot here lately. We're talking balls sticking to your legs hot, and nobody has AC. I did manage to sneak out to the car this morning and do some work. Got the cruise control removed and hurled into the dumpster, found a random ground that was connected to nothing, so I hooked that back up. Mainly focusing on cleaning up the engine bay.

I twiddled with some screwdrivers and got the car to idle really smoothly, I even drove it to the gas station. If I accelerate gingerly it's fine but If I put my foot in it it just bogs down. I had a similar issue with the old carb, so I'm suspecting the timing.

I stopped by the parts store yesterday and re-bought my timing light, all gung ho that I would be setting the timing this morning. got the car warmed up looked down and began to sob uncontrollably.

The previous owner, who thought owning a Jeep Cherokee with no doors was acceptable, replaced the timing cover with a autozone bargain bin chrome job, that has no timing tab.

Berk you and Berk cheap chrome garbage.

now I'm trying to find a bolt on timing pointer before the weekend.

10 days left until the 'Classy Chassis' car show where I will park this garbage on main street next to shiny trailer queens. I'm not even going to wash it...

Usually the parts store has a mr gasket chrome timing tab for about 8 bucks.

I have one of those chrome timing pointers that has been floating around in my toolbox for probably over 20 years now. You are welcome to it, although you could probably get one local faster than I could mail it to you.

Heres a quick and dirty thought for timing marks:

Roll the motor around to TDC on number 1 (watch the rotor to confirm). Clean up your mark on the balancer and make a mark on the cover that matches. Fire up the car see if the marks still align under the timing light. Remark the cover until they match. With that done, you have a reference point and can adjust your timing until it feels right. You don't need to know the exact number, just how far away from the mark you just made is the sweet spot. You can always go back to your mark if needed.

Well, I went out Friday afternoon and bought everything I would need to get this job done. 6 am Saturday morning it was only 55 degrees. I got started. Everything came off pretty easily and I added a cheapo parts store timing tab.

Everything went together easily...

Until it didn't. When I was in FL I did some diving. There's two rules of diving:

1) Breath through your mouth. 2) Stick to the plan.

I forgot to stick to the plan. I replaced the lower rad hose and and the heater hose from the pump to the heater core. After replacing the hose I had a few feet of leftover hose.

"I'll replace the other heater hose while I'm here." said stupid me.

yeah, that hose is slightly bigger and the end split when I took it off. Now I've got to buy a new one...

I finish putting the car back together and realize that the alternator has a lot of play in it. like one of the bearings is missing entirely. ugh...

Oh yeah. and this...

Gotta go spend more money... I guess I'm done for the day. We'll see how tomorrow goes.

In reply to AClockworkGarage:

Don't you just love old cars?

Pete Gossett wrote: In reply to AClockworkGarage: Don't you just love old cars?

I used to.

Finished up today with only two more trips to the parts store!

Got the new alternator and it's chrome!

Of course it's chrome. Why wouldn't it be chrome?

Whatever, I don't care. I put it back together and went through four belts trying to find the right one. but It's done.

With everything back together I slapped the timing light on it to find the white line just bouncing everywhere... no rhyme or reason at all. I moved the distributor around slowly trying to get it to make sense but it never did.

As I rotated it (counter-clockwise) the idle speed increased by 500 rpm, then developed a slight miss. I backed it up until I ran smoothly and tightened it down.

During the test drive the bog is still there but much less pronounced. The car also feels slower.

I need to try and find someone who's done this before to show me how to do it, because I'm lost here.

Lastly I managed to arrange a trade of a set of IROC hood vents for this RS style flat hood.

I just have to figure out how to get it home. And find a place for my old one.