I guess I was #4 then. I kept in in the backyard and one of my dogs actually slept in there at one point. I have pictures of it somewhere on the trailer behind my XJ Cherokee heading North from Houston on I-45.
I guess I was #4 then. I kept in in the backyard and one of my dogs actually slept in there at one point. I have pictures of it somewhere on the trailer behind my XJ Cherokee heading North from Houston on I-45.
In reply to Snowdoggie (Forum Supporter) :
Did you get my PM sent through the forum?
In reply to maschinenbau :
No. For some reason that doesn't work. It claims my e-mail belongs to somebody else.
In reply to Snowdoggie (Forum Supporter) :
What's your email? Or would you mind PM'ing me?
In reply to maschinenbau :
snowdoggie
RacetruckRon said:In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
Keep me in mind if you ever need to get rid of the DSM
Deal!
With the Burchett Rule fully abused to its limit to restore the crusty Lotus brakes, I turned my attention to the budget exemption for lug nuts and studs. To use these particular discontinued vintage aftermarket wheels on these particular Lotus hubs, I had to order special 3/8 UNF mag-style flange lug nuts you can only find in the UK. All in the name of safety, of course!
Coilovers for vintage Lotuses are NOT budget exempt however, and rather expensive at that. So I desperately tried to salvage the ones that came with the car. I used a plastic bristle brush on a drill to knock down the rust and flaky chrome. Then I filled the pits with JB weld. I wet-sanded the shafts starting with 600 up to 2000 grit. The result is something that may or may not last a whole $2000 Challenge autocross, but at least it's free. The arm dyno measures smooth and consistent damping force throughout travel.
And now that I have a 1/8" NPT tap and piece of 1/4" plate, repairs for the vacuum chamber are underway.
ooooh... A yuropa in Machinenbau's hands... I'm in on this!
Do please note that you have the right side caliper on the left side upright in the wheel/brake photo above...
TurnerX19 said:Do please note that you have the right side caliper on the left side upright in the wheel/brake photo above...
Good catch. Air goes to the top of a void.
That would have been difficult to bleed!
I think I have this polyurethane casting stuff figured out. These are fully cured control arm bushings. Those 3D-printed mold plugs were super handy. I just duct-taped them around the bottom of the outer sleeve of the arm and poured open-face from the top. You can even see the printed texture in the rubber! Pretty neat. After curing you can just twist the plastic molds off with channel locks.
Challenge budget, how much are those bushings vs. a premade part?
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
$15 vs $100+shipping, for just these 8 control arms and 2 sway bars. I still have 2 more sway and 4 shock bushings left. $29.99 for 2 lbs of resin, and I've used almost half.
In reply to maschinenbau :
I bet if you bust out the gram scale some stuff has to evaporate and therefore exit the budget as it cures, too, right?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:In reply to maschinenbau :
I bet if you bust out the gram scale some stuff has to evaporate and therefore exit the budget as it cures, too, right?
There's no solvent evaporation in polyurethane curing.
Does the almost lb of PU you've used include the waste while you were figuring out the process?
When I pro-rate materials for Challenge cars, whether it's Bondo or paint or in this case polyurethane, I weigh the container before and after. I do a have measurements from practice pours I can subtract out, but it's only a couple bucks. There is a good chance I use all of this container, so that keeps the budget simple.
In reply to maschinenbau :
What about when it goes bad in the container?? I try to minimize that by filling the air space in the containers with gas from my MIG welder. Moisture is your worst enemy with PU.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to maschinenbau :
What about when it goes bad in the container?? I try to minimize that by filling the air space in the containers with gas from my MIG welder. Moisture is your worst enemy with PU.
The moisture is only a problem for the harder, the resin will keep almost indefinitely. Squashing the bottle down to exclude air is another good approach.
Welding gas works really well for open bottles of wine too.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I use this same trick with POR in the can; never remove the lid, just punch two holes that can be taped over with aluminum tape. Then store in beer fridge.
Gammaboy said:Welding gas works really well for open bottles of wine too.
This forum never ceases to amaze me with the amount of useful information available...
nlevine (Forum Supporter) said:Gammaboy said:Welding gas works really well for open bottles of wine too.
This forum never ceases to amaze me with the amount of useful information available...
How exactly does this work?
Why do you need to put welding gas into an empty wine bottle?
In reply to RandolphCarter :
Say you drink half the bottle. ( No idea how that can happen) and you want to save the wine for next weekend cause you don't drink during the week (no idea how that could happen).
Wine left exposed to oxygen gets an off flavour. The goal would be to make it so no oxygen touches the wine. Some people sell pumps that claim to use a vacuum to minimize the amount of oxygen in the bottle. Good but not good enough.
CO2 and Argon are both heavier than air. If you hold the mig torch over the top of the bottle with the wire feed open, the air will be displaced by the inert gas and a blanket of CO2 will cover the wine. Next weekend the wine will be fine.
Pete
Ah, yes, the GRM Europa challenge/fabrication/restoration/wine thread.
Love it!
In reply to NOHOME :
I am definitely giving this a try over the weekend. What's strange to me is that some wines (and by wine I mean red) actually taste better or simply different but still good a day or two after being uncorked. But most wine ends up tasting like BigFoot's nether regions beyond two days. So drink it all right away seems to be a good answer if you don't have welding gas handy.
JoeTR6 said:In reply to NOHOME :
I am definitely giving this a try over the weekend. What's strange to me is that some wines (and by wine I mean red) actually taste better or simply different but still good a day or two after being uncorked. But most wine ends up tasting like BigFoot's nether regions beyond two days. So drink it all right away seems to be a good answer if you don't have welding gas handy.
For sure, that's why red wine typically gets put in a carafe, and why glasses for red wine are shorter and wider than for white wine. The carafe and wine glass are both designed to aerate the wine.
If you can let the red wine interact with air for a bit before serving the flavors kind of bloom and become more noticeable.
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