moparman76_69 wrote: Buy the steel first, that way you have a chance of making it roll before it languishes in project purgatory.
This +1000000
moparman76_69 wrote: Buy the steel first, that way you have a chance of making it roll before it languishes in project purgatory.
This +1000000
Never before have fenders seemed less important. Really, they'll just add weight, difficulty, and aero drag. Plus, it would be more stuff you could sell off since you seem to be good at it.
fanfoy wrote:moparman76_69 wrote: Buy the steel first, that way you have a chance of making it roll before it languishes in project purgatory.This +1000000
Second.
Love it! I'll be watching
STM317 wrote: Never before have fenders seemed less important. Really, they'll just add weight, difficulty, and aero drag. Plus, it would be more stuff you could sell off since you seem to be good at it.
Yeah, legal issues aside you don't absolutely need fenders other than to cover up the IFS, which could be made less ugly with some polishing of the aluminum control arms
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/readers-ride-meet-the-rice-rod/
OP has to deliver now.
You're ~$117 away from the recoup limit. Keep it in mind as you proceed w/ the parting, just to not limit yourself (selling vs. trading stuff). Keep it up, though! 
Please leave the front of the engine poking out of the grille and mount the radiator in the bed. That'd be the best.
NickD wrote:
I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
This is sweet. I want burnout vids right. Stat. Now!
Xceler8x wrote:NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
Radiator behind the cab.
gearheadmb wrote:Xceler8x wrote:Radiator behind the cab.NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
No airflow right behind the cab. Mount it at the very back of the bed up against the taillight and then cut out openings in the tailgate (perhaps in the shape of the old Ford script) and fill with wire mesh.
NickD wrote:gearheadmb wrote:No airflow right behind the cab. Mount it at the very back of the bed up against the taillight and then cut out openings in the tailgate (perhaps in the shape of the TOYOTA script) and fill with wire mesh.Xceler8x wrote:Radiator behind the cab.NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
Fixed for coolness
Bobzilla wrote:NickD wrote:Fixed for coolnessgearheadmb wrote:No airflow right behind the cab. Mount it at the very back of the bed up against the taillight and then cut out openings in the tailgate (perhaps in the shape of the TOYOTA script) and fill with wire mesh.Xceler8x wrote:Radiator behind the cab.NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
Ford Script with Toyota interlocking circly thing for the O for ALL the winning.
NickD wrote:Bobzilla wrote:Ford Script with Toyota interlocking circly thing for the O for ALL the winning.NickD wrote:Fixed for coolnessgearheadmb wrote:No airflow right behind the cab. Mount it at the very back of the bed up against the taillight and then cut out openings in the tailgate (perhaps in the shape of the TOYOTA script) and fill with wire mesh.Xceler8x wrote:Radiator behind the cab.NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
The0retical wrote:NickD wrote:Bobzilla wrote:Ford Script with Toyota interlocking circly thing for the O for ALL the winning.NickD wrote:Fixed for coolnessgearheadmb wrote:No airflow right behind the cab. Mount it at the very back of the bed up against the taillight and then cut out openings in the tailgate (perhaps in the shape of the TOYOTA script) and fill with wire mesh.Xceler8x wrote:Radiator behind the cab.NickD wrote:I love this too. I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to cool the motor all while leaving that very tidy, yet mechanically busy, front portion with the pulley show.
I vote no hood or make a longer one and extend the wheelbase to keep the engine out of the cab. Same for fenders-leave 'em off or make tire huggers from trailer pieces. Bonus: selling off the stock fenders recoups money from the purchase of the body after you've hit the limit on the Lexus/parts (IF I understand the rules correctly).
Junkyard_Dog wrote: I vote no hood or make a longer one and extend the wheelbase to keep the engine out of the cab. Same for fenders-leave 'em off or make tire huggers from trailer pieces. Bonus: selling off the stock fenders recoups money from the purchase of the body after you've hit the limit on the Lexus/parts (IF I understand the rules correctly).
The limit is overall, regardless of which batch of parts things were sold from.
Based on however the other thread goes, would you consider doing an NA build w/ megasquirt for the challenge, then adding the turbo bits after?
In reply to bluej:
I will probably go NA with stock ECU at first, just to get it running and possibly go to the Challenge. Then go full-on Megasquirt+turbo afterward. I don't think I can do Megasquirt within Challenge budget, which is too bad because I'm finding motorcycle throttle bodies pretty cheap on eBay.
bluej wrote:Junkyard_Dog wrote: I vote no hood or make a longer one and extend the wheelbase to keep the engine out of the cab. Same for fenders-leave 'em off or make tire huggers from trailer pieces. Bonus: selling off the stock fenders recoups money from the purchase of the body after you've hit the limit on the Lexus/parts (IF I understand the rules correctly).The limit is overall, regardless of which batch of parts things were sold from. Based on however the other thread goes, would you consider doing an NA build w/ megasquirt for the challenge, then adding the turbo bits after?
I am not familliar with MS. Can MS handle VVT-i also?
Crackers wrote:bluej wrote:I am not familliar with MS. Can MS handle VVT-i also?Junkyard_Dog wrote: I vote no hood or make a longer one and extend the wheelbase to keep the engine out of the cab. Same for fenders-leave 'em off or make tire huggers from trailer pieces. Bonus: selling off the stock fenders recoups money from the purchase of the body after you've hit the limit on the Lexus/parts (IF I understand the rules correctly).The limit is overall, regardless of which batch of parts things were sold from. Based on however the other thread goes, would you consider doing an NA build w/ megasquirt for the challenge, then adding the turbo bits after?
Not familiar either but I a fairly certain that they made an add-on box that can control VVT, because guys were using it on Miatas to put the '01-'05 VVT engines in '90-'97 cars
I'm running a DOHC bmw I6 w/ single cam VVT (solenoid activated via relay), wasted spark (3 circuits, logic level only), 2 wire IAC and electronic fan control via a microsquirt module and a few mini boards for power conversion and USB in a pelican dry-case. The cased microsquirt has less I/O options than the module, but easier packaging and install/setup.
The DIYPNP setups are based around the microsquirt module by adding extra hardware for the functionality needed. I believe that's the MS setup that most use for the 01-05 miata VVT engines. I'd go poke around there on the DIYAutotune site to see if one is close to what you need. Might even be able to re-use a good chunk of the stock harness that way.
I am possibly selling a megasquirt setup
There's a megasquirt setup for sale right now on the Open Classifieds.
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