In reply to eebasist:
Awesome thanks! I need to space mine out so it's in the NE right spot again... That cross member is a little 'crooked'
In reply to ssswitch:
Yeah it was not cheap however... Luckily it's straight
In reply to eebasist:
Awesome thanks! I need to space mine out so it's in the NE right spot again... That cross member is a little 'crooked'
In reply to ssswitch:
Yeah it was not cheap however... Luckily it's straight
I have a side exit exhaust that you can have for $20.00 plus shipping if you want it. I have a picture of it somewhere. I sold the car and have no use for it, and would rather see it put to good use by a fellow GRMer.
Its half aftermarket and half muffler shop, but hey it worked.
edit...
I will try to get that exhaust packaged up to ship out early next week. I have been busy this week with work.
pimpm3 wrote: I will try to get that exhaust packaged up to ship out early next week. I have been busy this week with work.
No worries! Whenever you get to it is fine. I have a fair bit of work to do and limited time at the moment
Wheels off, loaded into the truck to get the tires swapped onto the old stockers. Anyone have opinions on different tires F-R? I have some stickier tires that would fit on the rear.
Bumper on!
Some fitment issues.... Remember that core support that wasn't quite right?
A little hard to see in the pics, much worse looking in person....
A little more progress. More shiny bits.
Hmmm bent. (thats the better one...) Im guessing the tow dirver hooked onto the lower arms to drag it up the hill.
New bits installed.
Bad news is the replacement wheels I have, one is very bent..... Oh well, they will have to survive for the time being. Hopefully I can give it a DIY alignment next week!!
OK I need some help. the pass rear took a good hit, and was showing a lot of positive camber (bottom of wheel tucked in).
The lower camber arm was bet, I thought this was the issue. Got a set of adjustable ones, slapped them in. Adjusted it till it was close so i could get the wheels on and align it. Well I guess I adjusted the bottom of the upright out far enough the CV blew apart. Not good.
None of the mounting points look bent, no obvious bends/cracks in the upright, nothing I can see wring with the strut, but the wheel is still funky. I cant adjust the bottom out any more. In fact it needs to go in more, as the CV still pops under hard load.
Is there any adjustment anywhere to bring the top of the knuckle in? I don't see anything at all. HELP!
pics of it.
Before I shortened the camber arm back up, CV bviously stretched to the max, wasnt engaging.
as it sits, full droop.
How it was before I touched it. with spare doughnut.
Anything obvious?? This was not supposed to happen....
On the groun pics (ground isnt very flat)
Good side, camber and toe were eyeballed to match OE arm lengths. top is tucked in fender.
Bad side, camber still positive, top of tire proud of fender. (camber arm is adjusted 3/4" longer than the other side in this pic, still too long for cv engagement.)
This is the real only difference I can see, the strut is farther from the frame and the upright attachment point on the bad side. (meaning top of upright/knuckle is too far outboard)
Good side
bad side
Could the actual bottom of the struct be kinked?? I cant see visible bends/cracked paint/bulges etc. It doesnt look bent to my eyeball.
Maybe pull the strut for inspection of both it, and the mounting cup? I comment mainly to offer support. I can see no better ideas than deconstruction.
In reply to wheelsmithy:
I'll put some pics up later. Pulled the strut, not bent as far as I can see. Swapped in an old oe strut. No difference....
I'm leaning towards the upright/spindle, there is no visible frame damage to the control arm mounting points, or subframe.
Hard to tell for sure on the spindle, it's all funny shaped anyway.
wheelsmithy wrote: Frame looks straight, right? What else could it be?
Ad far as my eyeballs will tell me. No obvious wrinkles or anything. The control arm mounts all look straight. Body gaps are all good. Other wheel is just fine.
I think that the spindle is all that's left... But not really 100% sure. I guess I need to see if I can find one..
I dropped my engine out of the MR2 so the spindles are out (finally). Let me know if there is a specific dimension you'd like me to try to measure for you.
eebasist wrote: I dropped my engine out of the MR2 so the spindles are out (finally). Let me know if there is a specific dimension you'd like me to try to measure for you.
Whats going back in??
I got a new spindle in the mail, should be here today in fact. $55 shipped. Not too bad.
WTF size/points are the axle nuts? I thought it was 32mm, but I don't have anything other than a 6pt, it didn't fit.
EDIT: I guess its 12pt 30mm. Arrg don't have that.
Have you tried dropping a center mark to the ground with a plumb-bob and measuring side-to-side to compare suspension points? Looking at how far you have the adjusters turned out, it should be easy enough to spot what is not where it should be.
My first thought was the upright, so you might have solved it empirically already.
In reply to NOHOME:
That was after I just started cranking it out to try to get the camber correct. The control arm mounts measure the same from a center point.
In reply to wheelsmithy:
No it was not. That was from me adjusting it Way too far out on the bottom.
sesto elemento wrote:java230 wrote: Decklid not latches! Unfortunately I will have to take it back apart to paint.... It was a bit of a process to get it all adjusted to close nicely.That latch mechanism is completely unnecessary, I've been running nothing whatsoever there for 7 years, with zero issues. <img src="" /> <img src="" />
Good to know. It's working now though.
Does it not bounce?? Have a build thread? Looks interesting.
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