I believe the C5/C6 approach allows a different approach because of the structural torque tube between front/rear. The 240 floor pans and rockers can stay intact with some tunnel surgery...but major surgery front/rear to provide suspension structure connections.
Track adjustment is an issue requiring some thought, although it might be handled with a combination of wheel offset and fender flares. More of an issue at the rear than the front.
http://www.clevelandpap.com/product-category/chassis/
In reply to NOHOME:
There are a bunch of groups. This particular car was posted in the "Volvo 1800 Fan Club" Group. Oh - and I remembered the country wrong - he's in Canadia as well. Apparently in the Quebec area.
There is also a "Classic Volvo Resto-Mod" group and a "Volvo 1800 Upgrades" group, along with more traditionalists groups.
And for what it's worth, the Volvo-Vette thing has been done. At least with a C4. In this case, they took a C4 chassis and grafted 1800 coupe body panels onto it. The results are... interesting... I saw this car in person at Carlisle a few years ago and it doesn't look that bad. Needless to say, the 1800 purists hate it.
Ian F wrote: And for what it's worth, the Volvo-Vette thing has been done. At least with a C4. In this case, they took a C4 chassis and grafted 1800 coupe body panels onto it. The results are... interesting... I saw this car in person at Carlisle a few years ago and it doesn't look that bad. Needless to say, the 1800 purists hate it.
It just so happens that there is a big annual Volvo meet near me on July 23rd.
https://canadianvolvoclub.org/node/72
I am sorely tempted to tow the thing to the gate in its current unfinished condition and drive it in just for the reactions.
Ian F wrote: And for what it's worth, the Volvo-Vette thing has been done.
That's just a Corvette through and through with a bit of different sheet "metal" (or fiberglass) on the front and back. I'd like to drop the 240 unibody over the C5 front suspension/engine/torque tube/trans-rear/rear suspension. Something like this without the space frame, and leaving the LS3 in place rather than using Volvo's 60 degree V8. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=264064
NOHOME wrote: I am sorely tempted to tow the thing to the gate in its current unfinished condition and drive it in just for the reactions.
That sounds like a good idea. The ONLY place I've ever felt a bit unwelcome in mine has been at Volvo Club events. Red-headed step child and all that...
MichaelYount wrote:Ian F wrote: And for what it's worth, the Volvo-Vette thing has been done.That's just a Corvette through and through with a bit of different sheet "metal" (or fiberglass) on the front and back. I'd like to drop the 240 unibody over the C5 front suspension/engine/torque tube/trans-rear/rear suspension. Something like this without the space frame, and leaving the LS3 in place rather than using Volvo's 60 degree V8. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=264064
One problem with that link - that 240 is no longer a uni-body. It's a fully caged race car with race-car controls. And there's a big difference between simply fitting the drivetrain and suspension under the car vs. what NOHOME was talking about and using the C5 dash and firewall.
One of the reasons I backed away from doing a V8 conversion is because by the time I had gone through all of the gyrations to make it work, I'd essentially end up with a Cobra skinned with an 1800 body. That's basically what these guys will have, only with a 240 body. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but if I want to drive a minimalist, somewhat uncomfortable car on the street that wants to kill me half the time, I already have a Spitfire.
Ian F wrote: One problem with that link - that 240 is no longer a uni-body. It's a fully caged race car with race-car controls.
Which is why I said in reference to the link "...something like this WITHOUT THE SPACE FRAME...". 
MichaelYount wrote: I believe the C5/C6 approach allows a different approach because of the structural torque tube between front/rear. The 240 floor pans and rockers can stay intact with some tunnel surgery...but major surgery front/rear to provide suspension structure connections. Track adjustment is an issue requiring some thought, although it might be handled with a combination of wheel offset and fender flares. More of an issue at the rear than the front. http://www.clevelandpap.com/product-category/chassis/
MichaelYount wrote: Which is why I said in reference to the link "...something like this WITHOUT THE SPACE FRAME...".
But again, therein lies much of the problem. You'll still end up building a space frame to some extent in order to get strong enough mounting points for the Vette suspension and drivetrain bits. So I'll reiterate the Binky approach as the only practical way to make that work, since that is essentially the exact same thing they're doing (engineering-wise). Of course, the caveat is Binky is also a race car, although intended to be a MOT approved one. They are less concerned about compromises towards street comfort.
Ian F wrote: But again, therein lies much of the problem. You'll still end up building a space frame to some extent in order to get strong enough mounting points for the Vette suspension and drivetrain bits.
Ah - opinions vary on that point. I believe modded subframes in the front and rear to accommodate the Vette bits, with the torque tube and Volvo unibody in between will work just fine. I've done a good bit of studying on just how much of a structural member the torque tube itself is.
In any event -- I took us down this rabbit trail.....so back to 'it's almost ready to start!'
Does this mean I can take credit as a "Bad Influence "?
Yes - on more than one level! Another here -- Amazon wagon body shell over top of a BMW M30 floorpan/cut-up-unibody. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=333984
God hates me! She really does....
Last night was going to be the night. The shifter finally came on board and water was the last of the fluids that needed to be added.
To bad the water was not going to play nice. There is a pinhole leak in the steel heater rails. Right at the bracket that holds it to the manifold where the sharpie is pointing.
Not only am I disappointed that I did not get to make noise, but I spent a lot of time getting this piece of tubular sculpture cleaned up and painted!
That I so happen to be an Aquarian is an irony that has not escaped me in this development!
Those hard lines are notorious for that - even worse right behind the swell where the hoses attach.
Why is it that grafting two cars together seems like a minor effort compared to dealing with E36 M3 like this?
The devil is always in the details.
I've been there. The only problem I had making a custom transmission adapter for my car was that after it was all installed, I touched the (stainless braided) clutch line to the starter positive, melting a hole in it. Since the other end of the line was an AN fitting on the slave cylinder INSIDE THE BELLHOUSING, I had to make a custom wrench to reach in there and unscrew it.
The last 20% always takes 80% of the time.
mck1117 wrote: The last 20% always takes 80% of the time.
I've heard something similar: the first 90% of the project takes 90% of the time, the last 10% of the project takes the other 90% of the time.
mck1117 wrote: I've been there. The only problem I had making a custom transmission adapter for my car was that after it was all installed, I touched the (stainless braided) clutch line to the starter positive, melting a hole in it. Since the other end of the line was an AN fitting on the slave cylinder INSIDE THE BELLHOUSING, I had to make a custom wrench to reach in there and unscrew it. The last 20% always takes 80% of the time.
This is the reason that I will go to extraordinary lengths to keep the slave cylinder external to the bell-housing. Those things are a great idea that ain't.
NOHOME wrote:mck1117 wrote: I've been there. The only problem I had making a custom transmission adapter for my car was that after it was all installed, I touched the (stainless braided) clutch line to the starter positive, melting a hole in it. Since the other end of the line was an AN fitting on the slave cylinder INSIDE THE BELLHOUSING, I had to make a custom wrench to reach in there and unscrew it. The last 20% always takes 80% of the time.This is the reason that I will go to extraordinary lengths to keep the slave cylinder external to the bell-housing. Those things are a great idea that ain't.
There are already enough potential issues that require pulling the gearbox out of a TR6. I'm not convinced putting the slave cylinder inside the bell housing improves this much. Although, that would eliminate the cross shaft and release fork which are the biggest sources of failure.
In reply to JoeTR6:
My bellhousing conveniently has a giant hole where the release fork was supposed to go if you were using a Volvo clutch and slave cylinder (or cable). You can reach the slave cyl through the hole, and do everything but replace the cylinder and bearing. Undoing the lines just requires the custom wrench, which I now have.
Try this video stuff again...
https://www.youtube.com/embed/KSvoXrcdwrA
O2 sensor bung being open does nothing for the sound. Overall, pretty happy with how it is running. No mufflers just cats at this point. Ran it for about half an hour and the temp stayed at 190.
Next step is to put the front wheels on, drop it on the suspension so that I can tighten the suspension bushings, and drive the thing out of the shop.
It's ALIVE!
....and that's me twekin the idle lol
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